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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Yorktown
    Age
    40
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    I realized I was going a bit too far, I wasn't sure how much of the blade to work. I need to come up with some kind of guide to grind the bevel otherwise itl take a good long while.
    What kind of hammer would I use to tap the ura out?
    Thanks again for all the help. I will keep you guys posted on my progress.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Gippsland
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    3,322

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    Quote Originally Posted by crackerkorean View Post
    I need to come up with some kind of guide to grind the bevel otherwise itl take a good long while.
    Confused - just set your bench grinder to 30 then grind your bevel 98% of the way then hone freehand. The actual bevel angel is not the most critical aspect. As long as its less then the bedding angle.

    Initially it is more important to get a well formed flat bevel.

    In my experience the tricker part is grinding the bevel square to the central axis of the blade. Because the blade tapers front to back along its edge and the tapper is never even or the same on both sides, you need to grind and hone you bevel so that it is perpendicular to the central axis of the blade. Otherwise your blade will sit & project skew in the dai.

    Examine the following image. The vertical lines are all perpendicular to the bevel line. But note the irregularity of the side tapers. It is this reason why western jigs will not work for Japanese tools. Western tools are almost 100% of the time square to the bevel along their edges. I have found that a depth gauge is great for making sure the bevel is perpendicular to the central axis.



    Quote Originally Posted by crackerkorean View Post
    What kind of hammer would I use to tap the ura out?
    Traditionally the pointed end of the Sakikiri - Pin Hammer or Nail Hammer is used, however I have used a Daruma Genno using the edge of the flat end to tap out the ura.

    I think a Cross Pein Pin Hammer would also work.

    Grinding the Kanna Blade-h309743-jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Yorktown
    Age
    40
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    14

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    So a lot of life happened since I last posted. I have a 5 year old that keeps me busy. I finally got around the grinding the blade down and ready to tap the ura out. Hoping to use this kanna soon. Hope things have been good for your guys.
    Ground Blade3.jpgGround Blade2.jpgGround Blade.jpg

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Yorktown
    Age
    40
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    I performed ura-dashi on the blade and used a chisel to widen the opening of the dai so that it could hold the blade. I was able to finally get some shavings today. I still need to learn how to set the blade visually. All of my initial cuts were pretty thick and only after backing out the blade slightly was I able to get thinner shavings. Also the only wood I had around was pine. I need to really work on the blade to get it nice and sharp. Kanna.jpg

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Gippsland
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    3,322

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    Nice work, it is good to see full width shavings, however now comes the hard part. Getting fine shavings is a complex and my in experience an infuriating learning process which is not simple a question of how sharp the blade is. The following factor can influence how fine your shavings are:


    • How sharp is your blade
    • The size / quality of the hollow of the sole of the dai
    • The overall conditioning of the sole
    • The location and pressure / forces your hand put on the Dai deforming the Dai during the stroke
    • The fit of the backing iron to the blade
    • The location of the backing iron relative to leading cutting edge


    For the moment stick with pine, until you can pull a good shaving.

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