Thread: Old japanese chisel

Youre english is fine mate.
A lot better than our portugese

Originally Posted by Tomazelli

Is possible that in the process of flattening the back I make a mistake and have removed all the hard steel layer? That would be good answer for the problem of the chisel dont hold an edge. Your opinions are very welcome.

That does indeed sound like what's happened

Not really a lot you can do about that I'm afraid, but if you had to remove that much material to get past all of the pitting/flatten it, it was a lost cause anyway.

Just consider it an excuse to vist Tools from Japan, Japanese woodworking tools direct from Japan.

Originally Posted by watson

Youre english is fine mate.
A lot better than our portugese

You said it, Watson.

Your English is just fine, Tomazelli -- as Watson said.

And you probably did, as you speculated, remove the lower layer of steel on the 8mm by working too hard to flatten the back. I don't believe there's any fix for that, sorry to say. But you've still got two well-restored chisels.

Search these posts for a process called ura-dashi, which will show you how to maintain the hollow on the back of the blade without removing steel. (I'm sure someone will be along any moment with links.) Here's one link, anyway: https://www.woodworkforums.com/f111/u...ng-out-134611/

Tomazelli,

Your English is not just ok, it's excellent!

That's a great job you have done on the back of the chisel. I have thought of doing the same but haven't done it yet. I will now, after seeing your results.

Usually the hard steel extends up the sides of the chisel as well as across the cutting edge. If you have cut away all the hard steel across the cutting edge, there still may be hard steel on the edges of the chisel. You could check if the edges are hard to diagnose what has happened.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Gadge

30 degrees is a good bevel. Is the 8mm chisel 30 degrees? If the edge bends/folds/crumples, the bevel may be less (20?)
Sometimes in old tools, there are so many rust pits that you cannot repair it. I have several large axe heads like that = just splitting wedges for logs now.

I can read english very well, but to write I still need to write with a translator, to see if my grammar is correct rather than to translate. And well, write here is a good excuse to improve my english.

NZStu, I am seeing Tools from Japan and this is a torture for me. The import taxes in Brazil are very agressives, about 60%. I have a cousin who go constantly to China, maybe I can buy and ask to ship to my cousin in China. So I could avoid taxes.

Yojimbo, I dont remember the process of tapping out, even i had done it on a japanese plane blade, when I did a rehabilitation of an old plane to a friend. In my mind the process would be only for large blades, but it would be useful for these chisels, especially because the tip of the blades were rounded, in a convex shape. Tapping them out I would need to remove less metal.

Gadge, I remake the hollow because the blades are so hard that flatten them seemed to me an infinite labor on the waterstone, even on the #250 coarse. If you try this, make sure to dont remove all the hard layer like I did, maybe tapping out the tips (on the soft metal of course) to facilitate.
I will see if the hard steel is still on the edges of the 8 mm chisel. The problem is that it is difficult to see the line between these two steel on the chisels, I have an old plane blade where the division is easily seen, but on these chisels is difficult to see.

In any case I can send the chisel for a friend who is blacksmith, makes knifes, and ask him to weld forging a layer of hard steel. Would not be a japanese stell, but the chisel would be usable again.

Greetings,
Tomazelli

Hi and welcome to the forum....I just bought an old Slick off E-bay....waiting for a little work but generally its in good condition.