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Thread: Japanese Saws
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26th June 2011, 11:42 AM #16
Stu
I should have said the 'product line' is 'Tadayuki' from the saw maker Daizo Mitsukawa. Apologies for the confusion.
Many thanks for your helpful assessment. Sounds like I've got the best level of saw I'm going to afford/appreciate. One advantages of this level of saw is that it can be resharpened, which I venture to do from time to time (with a feather file) despite the very different tooth profile to western saws.
But, one thing I'm not prepared to do is take the tooth setting hammer to the saw. I image the cost of having that done by a professional saw setter-sharpener would be as much as the original cost of this level of saw. Perhaps more justified with a fully handmade saw.
Thanks again, Stu.
.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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26th June 2011, 03:12 PM #17
忠行?
Ahh, actually reads the dang pricelist and there it is...
Chrome coated, machine made, hand checked.
Good saw, but it's also the base grade Mitsukawa saw.
The next one up, Zousaku is a slightly nicer saw, and the first one I had. I killed it because I was clueless.
But still, it's a big jump over a mass produced saw by a long way. I'll be doing all I can to put these saws within closer reach $$$ wise. Still need to adjust the current pricing, then sort out refunds to those who've already purchased them in the past. Might be expensive, but I couldn't rightly do it any other way.
I asked Mr. Mitsukawa about sharpening saws, and he kinda looked at me oddly, Hmmm-ed a lot and said 'no, not really'. I countered with "most folks I sell them to will want to try...", he rolled his eyes and then I asked what to do.
He quickly said to work the face of each tooth, just a little. I've also asked if he can show me some quick pointers on video when I get the chance so that folks won't be intimidated by it too much. There's a bunch of saws that can be theoretically sharpened, but everyone is too terrified of doing it. Takes some of the curse off it, and I don't think it's going to be too difficult for someone who's capable of sharpening their own Western saws. Finicky and tricky, yes, but not out of reach.
Especially if the only other alternative is to throw the saw/blade away.
Stu.
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27th June 2011, 07:30 PM #18Junior Senior Member
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[QUOTE=Schtoo;1338515]
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27th June 2011, 07:32 PM #19Junior Senior Member
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Stu
Can u send me some info also pls, I didn't know that u sell this stuff. I'm just getting back into hand working over machining, so I need some saws, etc.
Ta
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27th June 2011, 08:58 PM #20
Sig line amended, attached and, and, what's another 'A' word I can use?
Pretty boring at the moment, it's mostly a case of playing catch up with folks ordering stuff and getting it out the door as fast as I can.
I got a mile of new things to add, but everything else just keeps sucking away my time.
Stu.
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27th June 2011, 09:20 PM #21Junior Senior Member
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After I posted that question to you Stu, I read on another posting that you are with Tool from Japan...makes more sense now! Ta
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13th July 2011, 06:37 PM #22New Member
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Gyokucho Dozuki 372
hi stu, are you still selling these saws Gyokucho Dozuki 372? could you send me some info on them and a price? are they good for cutting dovetails? Thanks Jake
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14th July 2011, 09:56 AM #23Rank Beginner
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14th July 2011, 06:40 PM #24New Member
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thanks for the link. Jake
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16th July 2011, 07:02 PM #25Senior Member
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I need to buy a Japanese saw for trimming work on a desk I am making.
I've not got one, nor used one
Is this a good place to start?
Nakaya Eaks 210mm Dozuki, cross cut
I also want one of those saws that cuts through dowels etc i.e. the curving, bendy things - can someone please tell me what they're called
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16th July 2011, 07:51 PM #26
The Nakaya Eaks 210 is an outstanding saw. The cross-cut saw is designed for kumiko work (the blade inscription includes 組子用 - which means "for kumiko"). I use it for all my shoji work, and also for cutting tenons. It works equally well in soft and hard woods, but care is essential to make sure your technique is sound, otherwise you can easily damage the thin blade. The blade itself is Swedish steel, and leaves a beautifully smooth finish on the work.
Use on hardwood will dull the blade much more quickly than on softwoods, so you will also need some replacement blades.
The rip-cut version of the Nakaya is also a very good saw.
The bendy saw is called a kugi-biki noko, or flush-cut saw.
DesSee some of my work and general shoji/kumiko information at kskdesign.com.au
My Instagram page
My YouTube channel
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16th July 2011, 10:13 PM #27Senior Member
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Many thanks Des, I'lll put an order in and see how I go.
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