Thread: Japanese waterstones

Hi guys, i have been uding King stones for close 18 yrs. And i really like them. And i use 800 1200 6000.
I was wondering if anyone has tried some of these Diamond stones or are they ceramic?

Flattening off waterstones i think is something you just need to do nearly every time you sharpen. I went to the trouble of getting a piece or 20mm glass edged so i can flatten off my stones on that and it works really well.
Getting blades sharp to the point of shaving is really pretty easy once you have been doing it for long enough and good steel is so important in blades.
But i just find when you are planing Hard timbers they get the days lights beatten out of them pretty quickly regardless. I know i spend more time pushing a blade over stones than i actually do planing the wood most of the time.
Then again i find sharpening blades very rewarding. It's like......"now think boyo"....have you planned this job out properly before you hoe in and make a mess of it.
Sinjin

I was wonedring fi anyone has tried some of these Diamond stones

Sinjin

I use the same waterstones as you (with the addition of a natural one as well).

The smoothest diamond stone only sharpens to 1200 grit (sandpaper equivalent), which is about a 4000 waterstone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi Derek,
Thanks for all the informative posts you constantly manage (don't know how you find the time ). My sharpening consists of the same 'kit' as you, the 800, 1200, 4000, 6000 & green compound. I was wondering on your's (or anyone else's opinion on the #200 Grit Silicon Carbide Stone for starting the sharpening process instead of always going to the grinder.

BTW, I reckon the green rouge gives a *really* sharp edge. I wonder what a #30 000 grit :eek: shapton gives you??:confused:

All the best,

Chris

Hi cdm

I'm afraid that I do not have any experience of the "#200 Grit Silicon Carbide Stone". Below the 800 waterstone I would previously turn to sandpaper (now I use my belt sander grinder). But I will emphasize that the establishment of the correct bevel is the foundation for a razor edge, and so the process of achieving it becomes the first goal. How you get there is up to you: stone, grinder, whatever floats your boat. A 200 grit waterstone should do a good job (although I expect it to dish quickly).

I wonder what a #30 000 grit shapton gives you??

I believe that the ceramic Shaptons rate their grits differently to Japanese waterstones. I'm not sure what 30K would be, but it might be about 12000 waterstone. I understand (if I recall Steve Knight correctly) that anything above 9000 grit (waterstone) is unlikely to be significant.

I reckon the green rouge gives a *really* sharp edge.

In recent readings someone (I can't recall who) has stated that honing on the green rouge degrades the edge. They recommend honing on plain leather. Personally I find the green rouge excellent.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Hi guys.... i think without any thought i flatten my stones off quickly before i start trying to sharpen. Particularly the #800 etc as they wear pretty fast...well mine seem too. And i always finish off with the #6000.
But a friend of mine showed me how he gets his mirror finish by pollishing with cutting compund by hand. Note this edge is very sharp...the usual shave yrself bizzo. But when you reflect the mirror in the light there is a gentle curve. And i said to him if you put that back on the stone and re-sharpen you have to take that extra fine curve back off before you start hitting the real-estate you want. He said yepp...and smiled.
So does everyone else do this process? Or does everyone else just sharpen straight off .....say there #6000 or #8000 and leave it at that?
Sinjin