Kanaban usage

**ironsheik** · 10th April 2012, 06:10 AM

hey all,
I'm just curious how you all go about using and storing your kanaban plates. I guess I'm still trying to figure out the best way to keep mine rust free, flat and useful. So far I have two, using one to keep the other flat which has become dished more easily than I thought. It's possible the wood I mounted it on was allowing it to bow a bit so I'm going to plane flat a nice piece of yellow pine. So I figure using some 30x silicon carbide between the two plates ought to get them flat. Is this a good way to do so?

Also, how much water do you generally use with these things? I feel like throughout a long flattening session, water gets underneath and could rust it. Maybe I'm using too much? Do you use a rag to clean and dry it? Often or just when you're putting it away? And lastly, there always seems to be a bit of the gray silicon carbide left on the surface. I imagine that will always be there as it gets embedded more and more. Any ideas on that? I just want to keep these in as good a shape as possible as they're going to be the base point for all flattening. Thanks for any and all advice!!!

Josh

**Sheets** · 10th April 2012, 07:46 AM

Mine is just mounted on a piece of spruce (just what I had laying around). I wipe it dry after use to eliminate any surface corrosion which might eventually pit the surface. I only ever use green honing compound, so it doesn't matter to me that any is left on the surface after use. I haven't noted any problem with dishing, but I make sure to work over the entire surface (just like with water stones) to avoid that. And as for using water, I just keep it wet enough so the blades move easily (adding a few drops as needed - too much might flush away too much grit).

Steve

**ironsheik** · 11th April 2012, 02:31 PM

So I'm assuming that I have abused my kanaban by not being careful to use the whole surface, possibly using too much silicon carbide and/or pressing too hard. It really seems to me that one of mine is simply soft and actually has bowed a bit in the middle. It's dished on one side and convex on the opposite. I've tried flattening it using the two kanaban with 30x silicon carbide but it didn't help much at all. My assumption is with them both being the same size it's going to take a long time to flatten the one that is bowed. The good news is that one kanaban surface is quite flat and I was able to flatten both sides of my 400 ceramic stone with 60x sc quite quickly.

I'm wondering if I should go ahead and get a larger piece of steel and use that exclusively for flattening stones and to flatten my smaller kanaban if need be. Then I'll use the small kanaban for chisel and plane backs. Does this approach make sense or am I crazy? I'd rather not be reliant on diamond stones personally.

Josh

**Gadge** · 11th April 2012, 04:06 PM

Ironsheik,

If you are going to find another piece of steel I would suggest looking for a piece of cast iron instead. It makes a much better kanaban.

Regards,
Gadge

**ironsheik** · 12th April 2012, 10:08 AM

Good idea thanks. I'm guessing that having a larger size piece of steel will allow for much quicker waterstone flattening. It's a little tough using the kanaban I have now which is smaller in size than most of my stones.

Coming up with a reliably flat, usable and re-usable setup can take a really long time! I'm happy to be learning every day though. I've almost got razor edges on all my chisels now. I don't have enough time in the day!
Cheers,
Josh

**Gadge** · 12th April 2012, 10:26 AM

I use a diamond stone for flattening my natural stones and only use the kanaban for the backs of blades.

Gadge

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