Kanna

**fissionchips** · 2nd April 2012, 06:01 PM

My journey into the world of Japanese planes started with the restoration of a hira kanna. Tool in hand, I quickly learned how a kanna rewards its user's attention to detail with outstanding performance.

Eager to try my hand at dai making, I decided to create a jointer dai for a 68mm wide kanna blade I had. It was an exciting project to take on, given the many unknowns there were to work out along the way.

The jointer style kanna is termed rokudai or nagadai. I chose an old piece of hard maple to mill for the dai. Although I have never seen a dai made from maple (white oak and red oak are typically used,) I figured that maple has a good enough density and wear resistance to warrant a try.

Dai making is something of a labour intensive process. Hollowing out the blade cavity, squaring the sides, and conditioning the profile of the sole all take time to get right, especially for a beginner like me.

The finished dai measures 405mm long by 86mm wide by 37mm high. The sole length used for jointing usually ranges from 350mm to 600mm. For comparison, a Stanley No. 7 clocks in at 560mm.

Attachment 203760

The rokudai has more material to right of the blade, because that side is a bearing surface when used for edge planing. The right side also has a shallower sole bevel, which ensures good purchase on the planing beam.

Attachment 203762

Attachment 203755
Toshio Odate planes an edge in his workshop, from The Workshop Book

Attachment 203763

To condition the sole, I started by flattening it with 150 grit sandpaper on top of a 12" granite tile. I bought the tile at a home store for the princely sum of $5, and it makes a fine reference surface. To form the hollows I went with 220 grit sandpaper, taping the landings so as not to accidentally remove material there. There is some conflicting advice on the web regarding sole profiles, but Chris Hall's series of five blog posts "Smile and Wave" helped weed out the good from the bad from the ugly. I chose a double wave profile, which calls for four landings or touch points.

Attachment 203758

Attachment 203759

Every question that came up throughout was answered in Toshio Odate's book, which covers the dai making process on pages 96-98.

Here are some other links I found helpful in the build process: An article by Toshio Odate on tuning, Japan Woodworker tips on tuning, a blog post by Mafe on tuning, Japan Blade's tuning tips, a Woodtreks video on kanna, a dai seminar writeup, and a dai seminar photo gallery.

Tool Specs: Hard maple, 405x86x37mm. Blade angle 40deg, blade width 68mm. 1265g with blade. Infeed length 247mm.

The only thing I know about the blade is that it is stamped Muneshige, so I'd be interested if anyone can tell me more about it.

Attachment 203757

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For insight into an expert's approach to dai making, there are many photos on the web and even video of Isao Inomoto at work. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdHeYUP27FY"]Inomoto[/ame]

**NZStu** · 2nd April 2012, 08:39 PM

Deeply impressive stuff. That looks fantastic!

But how does it work?

**Yxoc** · 2nd April 2012, 11:14 PM

Fissionchips,

That looks damn nice!

And yes, I think we need some action photos...

Regards

Derek

**fissionchips** · 3rd April 2012, 08:14 AM

Thanks guys, glad you enjoyed seeing the project. How could I forget the all-important action shot? I'll get to work and see what I can whip up!

**Pops** · 3rd April 2012, 10:28 AM

Hi Fissionchips,

Good write-up, well done.

Looking forward to the 'action' shots and your impression on the performance.

Cheers
Pops

**Sheets** · 3rd April 2012, 12:11 PM

Nice job (on the restoration, too). I second Pops call for some shaving pics.

Steve

**fissionchips** · 3rd April 2012, 02:05 PM

In honour of spring finally arriving, here's a rare cross-bred 'excelsior' sheep for your perusal.

Attachment 203839

I did some tests on pine and fir with promising results. I'll need to refine my jointing skills with better wood and a good work surface. Then this plane will really shine! The blade has a very low 22deg bevel from its previous owner, and while I'm hesitant to grind 3mm off the blade to get back to 29deg, I think it'll need a lower relief angle to prevent dig in on some woods.

**Sheets** · 3rd April 2012, 11:51 PM

Is that what they call a "shave horse?"

Your bevel is pretty shallow, even for softwood, but rather than go steep in one step, try to gradually increase it over a few sharpenings. I know that's difficult to do freehand without rounding the bevel. Maybe (gasp) use a honing guide until you get enough bevel to register on freehand. It would be a shame to waste edge steel just to get a steeper bevel, plus you'd end up having to do uradashi sooner than otherwise (although something you'll have to deal with eventually and a necessary skill to acquire). Just keep the shavings thin until the new bevel is well established so as not to stress the edge too much.

I don't know about MuneShige, unless he's the same one who got kicked out of the shovel makers guild (just couldn't get a handle on things. Kanna are just little shovels without handles after all).... just kidding

But looks like kamaji for the back, so made for the 'real' woodworkers.

Anyway, a great way to learn about using and maintaining a fine Japanese tool (and make a bit of stuff along the way).

**NeilS** · 4th April 2012, 05:55 PM

Originally Posted by Sheets

... looks like kamaji for the back, so made for the 'real' woodworkers.

Agreed, I think I can see a folding pattern in the iron, which might indicate an above averge blade. My best blade had the best swirl pattern.

Well done on the dai.

Neil

**fissionchips** · 13th April 2012, 11:32 AM

Well I finally got a chance to stretch the legs on the plane.

Attachment 204804

I picked up a load of wood on the weekend for quite a deal.

This hunk of fir will make a great Japanese workbench once I get it flattened.

Attachment 204805

Sheets, I took your advice and set a new bevel angle for the blade. At 30deg I can get the endurance I need out of the edge. I also widened the mouth to about 1mm.

And that stack of wood below the plank? 100 feet of 5/4 maple

**Sheets** · 13th April 2012, 01:15 PM

Nice haul. Those are lovely big boards. You are going to be a busy fellow for quite a while. Besides the workbench, do you have a particular project(s) in mind?

**Pops** · 14th April 2012, 01:31 AM

Hi Fissionchips,

What Sheets said. Nice pile of boards you have there. Will be looking forward to the maple projects and the bench.

Cheers
Pops

**fissionchips** · 14th April 2012, 03:44 AM

Sheets, the shape of the wood will surely help to decide what gets made. For the live edge pieces I'm thinking of benches and small tables. I'm interested in simple designs that will give me a chance to try out various types of joinery and surface finishes.

Pops, I'll be sure to post a follow-up as things progress.

**hillpanther** · 16th April 2012, 04:28 PM

just recently i have also bought kanna from used shop.i paid only 1200 japanese yen.here is the pictures.hope you guys will like it and i would learn from you how to keep it safe and work

and shinwa square at 500 japanese yen

next time i will buy chiesels

**Gadge** · 18th April 2012, 12:39 PM

Hillpanther,

I don't know if you took the photos before setting up the kanna but the uragane (thanks Des) needs to be tapped down until it is around a mm from the blade edge.

Very nice Kanna.

Regards,
Gadge

Thread: Kanna - Adventures in dai making

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