Kanna blade stuck - problem

**snikolaev28** · 14th July 2012, 06:55 AM

G'Day to all!

Two weeks ago I found a problem. I've ordered a 3 kanna from Germany (from Dieter), suppose that somebody knows that man. The parcel were delivered 3 July, just before my trip to the seaside, vacation. Of course I've expected a long period of kanna tuning, but blades were stuck in two kannas.
After some research through Google I've found these threads:
Japanese plane
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f111/r...-planes-54867/

So I've decided to wait two weeks (my vacation duration) for acclimatisation of kannas. Probably MC in Germany from were I've bought them an MC in Ukraine, where I live, is different.
Today I came home but no changes - I hit a kanna end by mallet but blades not moves.

So I ask for an advise - to wait longer for dai acclimatisation or to do something.
Probably I tell this second time but I've found only two above mentioned thread.

Will be glade to hear your opininons.

Serge.

**Pam** · 14th July 2012, 03:44 PM

Did you hold them by the blade only, upside down while you hit the end? If so, time to hit harder and maybe call Dieter.

Pam

**Howard Pollack** · 15th July 2012, 01:16 AM

This method is a bit brutal, but it has worked for me. I grabbed the dai tightly in a vise, locked a vise-grips onto the blade and smacked the vice grips in the direction that would pull the blade out. Impact is very powerful. Good luck

**snikolaev28** · 15th July 2012, 01:59 AM

G'Day Pam and Howard!

Thank you very much for your advises. So, at first I decided to try the Pam proposed method, just because my vices stays in the garage and my apartment is located in the 15 min of walking from garage. And Howard told that kana in the vice is more brutal.

So, I turned kanna blade downside, hold them by the blade only and hit the front end by mallet. After second hit the sound has changed - the blade start to be free! I was so happy that third time hit not the kana front end but on my hand

But the blade became free after forth hit. I've made it with small kanna and after with the next too. So now I have 3 Japanese bench planes ready for tuning. I hope it will take some time - need to read carefully Soatoz and DesK instructions.

With kindest regards,

Serge.

**Pam** · 15th July 2012, 09:05 AM

Success! Now you're on your way.

Pam

**NZStu** · 15th July 2012, 02:28 PM

There are very few problems that cannot be solved by "hitting it harder." Good luck with the tuning!

**thumbsucker** · 18th July 2012, 01:31 PM

In future a more elegant solution is the freezer. By placing the plane in an open plastic bag and then placing the open ended bag in the freezer for 3 to 12 hours (Cheek every three hours), this will cause the relative moisture content of the wood to drop. This should be enough for the blade to wiggle free.

I have used this method in the past when dry test joinery fussed due shifts in humidity.

I come from the lesser school that says if you need a bigger hammer to fix something then you are probably doing something wrong.

**Howard Pollack** · 18th July 2012, 01:55 PM

I concur. As the fellow who proposed grabbing the blade with a vise-grips and bashing the dai with a hammer, I couldn't agree more with thumbsucker. Inelegance is usually the mark of something being not right...
-Howard

**NZStu** · 18th July 2012, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

I come from the lesser school that says if you need a bigger hammer to fix something then you are probably doing something wrong.

Pah. I bet you think that there exist things that can't be fixed with gaffer tape too...

**Pam** · 18th July 2012, 05:51 PM

There's a big difference between wailing away with all your force and simply hitting something harder.

Pam

**petersemple** · 18th July 2012, 05:58 PM

Originally Posted by NZStu

Pah. I bet you think that there exist things that can't be fixed with gaffer tape too...

Well, sometimes there's Superglue too.

**Andy Mac** · 18th July 2012, 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by NZStu

Pah. I bet you think that there exist things that can't be fixed with gaffer tape too...

Isn't there a maxim? If it doesn't move and should, use WD-40; if it does move but shouldn't, use gaffer tape.

Cheers

**NZStu** · 19th July 2012, 11:24 AM

Originally Posted by Andy Mac

Isn't there a maxim? If it doesn't move and should, use WD-40; if it does move but shouldn't, use gaffer tape.

Cheers

That's the one: 4 years study in mechanical engineering distilled in one statement. Everything else they teach you is just window dressing

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