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13th March 2014, 01:56 PM #211
The verdict I'm hearing is that the finish on the handle is adequate but on the blade it is marginal. This is probably where the maker has achieved some economy to bring the price down on this knife.
A nashiji finish can vary a bit between makers, and even by the same maker, from quite fine to coarse.
eg Fine nashiji on SS cladding by Fujiwara
eg Medium nashiji on SS cladding by Fujiwara
eg Coarse nashiji on SS cladding by Fujiwara
eg Coarse nashiji on SS cladding by Yoshida bottom knife
eg Fine nashiji on SS cladding by Masakage
The Tadafusa nashiji finish seems to be on the very coarse end. Hopefully it will be acceptable to your son, Ern, and to you 'Gnick'. If the knife performs well it may become an acquired taste, or at least tolerated.
BTW, in looking up the above examples of nashiji finish I noted that all of those knives sell for two to five times more than the Tadafusa, so still looking like a good economy buy...
That's good to hear and I expect that it will also hold that edge very well... maybe for 3 months
'Gnick', that augers well if it has passed the onion test with only the faintest patina evident. Even with regular veg and fruit it will slowly develop colour over time. It is removed whenever you sharpen the bevel, but if you wish to remove it between sharpening something like Cerapol (non-abrasive glass cooktop cleaner) will quickly do the job.
Ern, I expect that is because most knives come with a thin coating of camellia oil to resist moisture in storage and tansit.
'Gnick', as Ern points out, if it is only the end grain that hasn't been lacquered keep soaking that until it doesn't absorb any more. This will also help keep the handle from shrinking away from the ferrule. For the record, I haven't found it necessary to do this to other woods like burnt cherry or rosewood.
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13th March 2014, 02:53 PM #212Intermediate Member
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Cheers for that Neil. I've given it a couple of soaks so far. Got a very odd look from the lady when I asked where the pharmaceutical paraffin was
Overall, very happy with the knife and I was using this one more as a way to dip my toes into the Carbon market. Cheers for all of the help with it everyone.
Paul
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14th March 2014, 11:14 AM #213Hewer of wood
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That's a pretty good buy. You'll be able to hack away without fear of losing much
BTW, I got no staining from onion on the Tadafusa.Cheers, Ern
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14th March 2014, 07:57 PM #214
That is a very good price on that one, Paul.
It will come sharp and will cut well for quite awhile. Maintenance will be the challenge.
I expect the finish to be a bit hit and miss, which you would expect at that price.
And, you are about to give us the benefit of a side by side comparison between SS and soft iron clad knives, and how Shirogami (White No2) holds up against Aogami (Blue No2).
I look forward to your evaluation.
Neil
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15th March 2014, 03:32 AM #215Intermediate Member
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Cheers guys. Stumbled across that ebay page whilst looking for the cheapest price on a Suehiro "Rika"....lesson learned, Stu was the cheapest.
Glad I came across it though. Didn't want to spend too much on a petty and I can't wait to see the difference between makers and steels.
Not to do with knives, but was looking at a Naniwa Jyupaku (snow white #8000) and So-san from japan tool has urged me to try a different stone.
..in his words...
Again I can supply Junpaku, but I might want to suggest you to give this new baby a try! It’s less expensive than the Jyunpaku too.
http://www.japan-tool.com/zc/index.p...roducts_id=270
I am not sure how familiar you are with the J nats, but Karasu (it means "crow") natural stones are much sought after among the nat fans due to their beauty and rarity, hence they tend to be ve~~~~~~~~~~~ry very expensive, so the stone maker tried to mimic the looks. To someone who doesn’t know this, the black patterns on this synthetic stone might only seem like blotches, hahaha. If this is the case and you prefer pure white looks, then Junpaku it is (or the Sigmas). Give it a thought and let me know.
Cheers
Paul
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16th March 2014, 11:53 AM #216
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16th March 2014, 01:36 PM #217Hewer of wood
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I'm going to have to stop reading this thread! Too many temptations.
Neil you asked for feedback about the Sigma PS II #10000 ....
As you'd expect there's a distinct family resemblance to coarser PS IIs. It 'eats' VG 10. Blue steel is a bit slower. It leaves a highly polished surface. Water management is easy, a slurry develops quickly and it doesn't glaze. It's a more friendly stone than the Shapton #12000.
If the knives are not left too long it's fairly quick work to run them over the #6000 first and finish on the #10000. Then it's fearsomely (not just scary) sharp. Incidentally it cuts newspaper more readily on the backstroke than on the front.
Is it worth the money and effort? Perhaps not.
As an aside I've started to play with deglazing the #6000 with the small Iyo stone. The glaze comes from the bevel ink. I wonder though what abrasive effect this may have on the blade. Relative scratching until the coarse grains break down and then ... ?
BTW, Neil my son is getting the silver steel Tanaka Nakiri. The Tadafusa was my impulse buy. It's close enough in blade dimensions to the Gyuto not to add much to the kit so if anyone is interested ...Cheers, Ern
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17th March 2014, 09:10 AM #218Junior Senior Member
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Just as a matter of interest, that book Neil spoke of a few posts ago, on using and caring for Japanese knives...my local library is buying it especially. Nice people. Unfortunately, I know where that will lead to. Now to start convincing my wife that we need a new stable of knives!
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17th March 2014, 12:32 PM #219
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Ern, thank you for review. That Sigma is one of the few softer stones in that grit range, which makes it of interest to knife sharpeners.
For anyone who thinks they need to go to a finer grit for sharpening their knives, and doesn't already have a higher grit synthetic stone, it does seem like an easy to use option.
I take it that the "highly polished surface" that it leaves doesn't create much contrast between the softer cladding and the hard cutting edge steel?
Another contender in the higher grit stones is the Hishiboshi Karasu #9000 that Paul has recently identified.
http://www.japan-tool.com/zc/index.p...roducts_id=270
But that has yet to be given a test run.
OK, looks like someone is going to get a good 1st J-knife buy.
PS - on the knife cutting 'newspaper more readily on the backstroke than on the front', I would put that down to the angle of the micro-serrations (from the angle of the knife on the stone during sharpening), which cut more aggressively on the pull stroke.
Neil
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17th March 2014, 12:40 PM #220
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17th March 2014, 12:56 PM #221Junior Senior Member
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17th March 2014, 08:39 PM #222Hewer of wood
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18th March 2014, 11:10 AM #223
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21st March 2014, 08:03 PM #224Intermediate Member
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Arrived today and you were bang on actually. Very sharp out of the box, I'd say sharper than the Tadafusa and the Kurouchi finish is indeed a little hit and miss. Looks wise, I think I prefer the Kurouchi finish to the Nashiji.
Talk about reactive though!!! Compared to the Tadafusa anyway. After some minor onion cutting a pateena became evident
Not as visible in the pictures, but around 1/4 of the way up the blade it starts and goes to the tip. Not an issue by any means but massive when compared to the Tadafusa. Looking forward to putting it through it's paces.
Caught me completely by surprise when it arrived though because according to Japan Post, it was still in Osaka. Still is apparently.
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22nd March 2014, 10:59 AM #225
Thanks Paul for the initial review and the photos. No surprises so far.
It will be interesting to hear from you how well the White Steel holds that very sharp edge compared with the Blue Steel of the Tadafusa after both have been used for some time.
Likewise, how well the Tojiri korouchi finish holds up with use.
Neil
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