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  1. #256
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    Interesting, the different ways of checking sharpness. For a long time I fingered the edge - looking for the burr on turning tools, and since a lot of the work with those is hacking that worked OK. Then there's the paper cut test, the thumbnail catch and so on. Casually fingering the edge on a J-knife is something you only do once.
    Cheers, Ern

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  3. #257
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    Yes, Ern, the only practical way I know of to detect a burr while sharpening is to run my fingers off (never along) the edge. When the knife and your fingers are wet you can detect the slightest of burrs way up into the finer grits.

    When I think I'm done, I test for sharpness by drying the knife and slicing through thin grease proof or baking paper. It is thinner than printing paper and is a good test to see if the knife is sharp along its full length. It also picks up any remaining micro-nicks by catching on these and tearing the paper at that point.

    I know that a knife needs resharpening when I start to notice that I'm doing the cutting and not the knife.

    Stay sharp!

    Neil

  4. #258
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    May be of interest. Knife grinding after forging. ..

    https://m.youtube.com/flag?v=K0BtDfJCNL8

    Tormek could borrow the idea of the first one for a new jig.
    Cheers, Ern

  5. #259
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    A run-down of knife types from the Hocho-knife blog. Gyutoh and Santoku are on holiday.

    japanese-style-blades-s1.jpg
    Cheers, Ern

  6. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsser View Post
    A run-down of knife types from the Hocho-knife blog. Gyutoh and Santoku are on holiday.

    Thanks Ern. I expect that list is intended for Japanese professional knife users, just a few of the hundreds that are made for specific purposes.

    On the absentees; the Gyuto is in effect the Japanese version of the double bevel western chef knife, as is its little sister the petite. I'm not sure how popular it is in Japan.

    The Santoku is a hybrid made for Japanese home use; it combines the characteristics of several knives in one and is the knife most commonly found in home kitchens throughout Japan.

    I get by with five knives and don't feel the need for any others; Deba, Santoku, Nakkiri, Petite, and a small pairer. If I was to only have one it would be the Santoku. Then comes the sharpening stones....

    Neil

    PS - this thread has become a bit if of dialogue between you and me, Ern. Not that you or I mind that, but I'm sure we would be happy to have others join in.

  7. #261
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    Hey guys,
    I'm watching and learning. Don't have much to say as I'm just getting into the Japanese knives.
    Bought a shun 10th anniversary 8" chef knife a couple of months ago. Haven't had to sharpen it as yet but I will need to soon. Definitely a nice bit of gear though.


    Cheers
    Dirk

  8. #262
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    Welcome to the conversation Dirk.
    Thanks for showing us your Shun. It's got lovely grain.
    Cheers, Ern

  9. #263
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    Excellent first J-knife there Dirk. What grit will you sharpen it up to when it needs it?

    We also have a little Shun pairer on the knife rack. A good low maintenance knife.

    Neil

  10. #264
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    Hi Neil,

    Was thinking 6000 grit. What would you recommend? Only needs a little tickle.
    They are a great knife and I'm surprised it's kept its edge for so long.

    Will be getting more when I move out of home and do more of my own cooking.


    Dirk.


    Knowledge is knowing that tomato is a fruit, but Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad.

  11. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirk_Pittwater View Post
    Hi Neil,

    Was thinking 6000 grit. What would you recommend? Only needs a little tickle.
    They are a great knife and I'm surprised it's kept its edge for so long.
    Yes, #6k is about as high as I would take my Shun. Likewise, for any other stainless steel edge.

    Inspect the edge under magnification before you resharpen to understand the bevel profile.

    I expect your Shun came with a slight micro-bevel. If so, just retouch that to begin with.

    Use a black marker pen along the edge so you can see where you are grinding.

    Neil

  12. #266
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    Just a heads-up Dirk.

    I had the same knife and found that when worked on a stone the lamination lines got stained by the slurry. Suggest you clean the blade thoroughly and give it a coat or two of metal lacquer.
    Cheers, Ern

  13. #267
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    Perfect thanks for the heads up.



    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit, but Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad

  14. #268
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    There's an app with a database of knife steel composition. For Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...isoft.stlchmob

    Also as a by-the-way thewoodworks.com.au stocks laminated Japanese axes.
    Cheers, Ern

  15. #269
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    Came across a useful little sharpening tool to take on our outback trips. Should do for the knife and the hatchet. It's a 25 micron diamond plate bonded to a very fine ceramic stone. 100mm x 32mm. Fallkniven DC4. Comes with a leather pouch. Someone on eBay has them at good prices.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Cheers, Ern

  16. #270
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    Ern, thanks for the pointer to those laminated Japanese axes. It reminded me that I have one that has been waiting for some time for a new handle and your post prompted me to get around to doing that.

    I'm in the middle of splitting a large load of firewood ready for the upcoming winter (and the one after). My 4kg block splitter (maul) does most of the damage, but the 1.1kg Japanese carpenters axe does a nice job when something lighter than the big splitter will do the job. It can also be used one handed (holding it up behind the bit) for more precise trimming. However, when sharp, you are at risk of doing yourself some very serious harm with it!

    Neil

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