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2nd November 2011, 07:49 PM #61
Stone the crows! But not with that bit of rock. Who said the sword was thrown in for free? Was that you FF.
That rock and others (down to about one grand if you want to cheapskate) seem to be a little out of kilter with the other items for sale, which appear to be at the lower end of the market.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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2nd November 2011 07:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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2nd November 2011, 09:51 PM #62
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2nd November 2011, 10:14 PM #63
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2nd November 2011, 10:57 PM #64
Might pass on that one.
Caveat emptor... I purchased a natural stone from that seller which, in my opinion, did not match the HGAL rating given for the stone. I returned it to him saying that I was not satisfied and asked for a refund. His response was to not reply to any of my communications, ban me from bidding on all of his auctions and to keep my money!Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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3rd November 2011, 12:49 AM #65
Hi Neil,
Funny you should say that. I have had a similar experience, or two, from same, but I just retired from the 'discussions' and 'walked away'. Win some lose some.
Cheers
Pops
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6th November 2011, 01:00 PM #66Hewer of wood
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That's disappointing to hear.
Have bought several knives from him without problems arising though he's not good at replying to emails. Perhaps a language issue.
I know it's a pain but on the only occasion I had a dispute with an ebay seller it finally got resolved through their process.
But back to the important stuff: have just had to touch up the Tanaka VG 10 petty knife for the first time after a lot of use. Took it to #8000 on the Sigma Power but am not all that happy with the result. Had inked the bevels and they mostly show a polish so I'm left wondering whether it's the stone or my technique. Might try the small natural polishing stone I ordered with it. Iyo, lyo ... forget which.Cheers, Ern
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7th November 2011, 09:45 AM #67Senior Member
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- Sydney
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Rsser,
Sorry if this is information too basic to be posted on this site but have you raised a burr on both bevels? To be sure I get a good edge, I concentrate on one bevel until a burr is raised and then on the other until a burr is raised. After that I lightly alternate between bevels until the burr is gone.
Garry
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7th November 2011, 10:15 AM #68Hewer of wood
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All ideas welcome Garry.
I find I'm not getting burrs starting at #8000.Cheers, Ern
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8th November 2011, 10:14 PM #69
This link is stretching the humble kitchen knife a little, but may be of some interest even though the action replays are overdone. I do like the slicing of the pea pod, but I am confused by the cutting of a tube without marking the timber. Call me a sceptic if you will.
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RsAC5ni0w6Q&feature=player_embedded]Modern Samurai Isao Machii - Japanese (english edit) - YouTube[/ame]
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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9th November 2011, 05:36 PM #70Hewer of wood
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LOL.
How does the land of Haiku and Sumi-e also generate this? Sigh.
....
To get back on track, maybe NeilS would show us his kit.Cheers, Ern
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17th November 2011, 04:07 PM #71
OK, here is my four basic knives, plus my wife's go to knife.
Pic taken before the primary bevels required a resharpen.... that way you can see them better without all that scattered light bouncing off the freshly ground metal...
From the
Okimitsu (Yukinori) SHIRATAKA (2nd) Deba
- 30yr+ old Uddeholm Swedish steel (not sure which one)
- V. old heavy soft iron cladding up to 8mm thick on spine
- 165mm long blade
- Awaiting new handle.
- A real workhorse. Handles the heavy duty jobs.
WATANABE (6th) Santoku (Gyuto)
- Double bevel, Hitachi Yasuki blue steel HRc 63-65
- Shiro-uchi finish on stainless cladding- see hammer marks!
- 165mm blade length
- burnt chestnut wood handle
- My go to knife for most things
YAMAWAKU (Toshiro Wakui 3rd) Nakkiri
- Double bevel V2 (similar to Yasuki Blue) steel
- Damascus nickel-stainless cladding
- 165mm blade length
- burnt chestnut wood handle
- Very acute edge for very fine veg and fruit slicing.
WATANABE (6th) Petite Santoku
- Double bevel, Hitachi Yasuki blue steel HRc 63-65
- Shiro-uchi finish on stainless cladding
- 120mm blade length
- burnt chestnut wood handle
- My knife for small trimming jobs
SHUN Paring
- Double bevel, Cobalt MV steel
- Damascus stainless cladding
- 120mm blade length
- Paka handle
- My wife's go to knife. The edge doesn't last long, but if she forgets to immediately wash and dry... it doesn't rust!
Watanabe and Yamawaku are both Sanjyo city knife makers in Niigata Prefecture, one of the historic blade making areas of Japan. The Nakkiri and Petite Santoku on the right both currently have micro secondary bevels.
Do I have any other knives? Yes. A set that comes out when we have visitors to stay, particularly if they want to get into the kitchen..... We have just had visitors leave after a month long stay, and I have been reminded again just how good these Japanese knives are to use after reinstating them...
I also have a small Global's paring knife, the only other food knife that I regularly use. I love the shape of their paring knife, but hate their steel (Chromova 18). It holds a sharp edge for next to no time compared to my good knives.
Do I feel the need for any other knives? I have been on the lookout for an equivalent shaped blade to the global parer from a recognised Japanese knife maker, but with no success. It just doesn't seem to be in their pattern book. I could probably get it made as a special order, but that is likely to cost a mint and involve a long wait. Maybe, when my boat comes in... . Otherwise, no, at least for me.
I sometimes think that my wife would make good use of a short deba, like the one that Ern recently purchased. If I could find one with SS cladding I would get her one of those.
Could I do with less knives? Probably. The first to go would be the Yamawaku nakkiri. It has been tempered close to, if not beyond, its limit. Not ideal for such a fine edge. It has to be used with the utmost care. But, perfect for doing those super fine trimmings you see on Japanese food.
If I had to have just one knife it would have to be my Watanabe santoku, it's so versatile and such a beautiful knife to look at and to use. But a second smaller knife is also very nice to have.
PS - attachment did not display 1st time. Hopefully it will 2nd attempt.Last edited by NeilS; 17th November 2011 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Attachment not displaying
Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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17th November 2011, 06:26 PM #72
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17th November 2011, 06:49 PM #73Boucher de Bois
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The only western-style parers that I've come across from Japanese makers are one from Hattori (JCK Hattori Forums Japanese Knife,Japanese Kitchen Knife,Japanese Cutlery,Japanese Chef's Knives.Com), the Misono Swedish steel (Sweden Steel Series Japanese Knife,Japanese Kitchen Knife,Japanese Cutlery,Japanese Chef's Knives.Com) and the Misono Moly (Molybdenum Series Japanese Knife,Japanese Kitchen Knife,Japanese Cutlery,Japanese Chef's Knives.Com). The last one wouldn't be a huge step up from the global, but the other 2 would be...
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18th November 2011, 11:05 AM #74
Hi Neil,
Just love the look of those knives. I particularly like the small Watanabe santoku, nice shape. With those Japanese knives on the wall, I agree, you probably don't need any others.
I have used, (but do not own) a Shun knife and would not buy one, mostly because of teh handle, they are just too heavy and unbalanced, for my hand anyway. particularly the smaller ones like the paring knife. Am surprised your wife likes it.
I would be embarrassed to count the knives I have, as like chisels, I have trouble parting with them. But I have a knife for all jobs, new ones, old ones, Japanese nobody-allowed-to-touch ones, ones to use on sandy vegies, Japanese ones I take care of and cheap Japanese ones I abuse. Still have one Japanese petite knife still in the box, never used.
Do you get a lot of use out of your Deba Neil? I think Ern seems to give his a real work out.
You can't have too many clamps, and at my place you can't have too many knives.
Thanks for the photos.
Cheers
Pops
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18th November 2011, 11:32 AM #75
Thanks NZStu for the suggested paring knives.
Perhaps I should have specified which Global paring knife I'm using. It's this one.
What I like about that style of bade for peeling fruit and the like is the straight blade which is in line with the handle. My grandfather taught me how to peel an apple with that style of pocket knife when I was a kid (same knife that he used for neutering the male calves.. ). You know the method, where you cut into the thumb on the same hand that is holding the blade. That way it can never slip and cut you.
The Japanese knife smiths just don't seem to have that pattern hanging on the wall of their workshops. A deep heel is very practical for knives that are used on a cutting board. This keeps the hand clear of the cutting board and allows for the progressive loss of steel with many years of sharpening. But any heel depth reduces control when a knife is used as a peeler the way I describe above. I have seen chefs using a similar technique with a full sized knife where they hold the knife by the blade (not the handle)... but I don't like that method myself. You run the risk of pressing the heel into your palm and juice runs down the blade onto your hand, which is messy, and also makes your grip even less secure....
There is the option of modify a traditional knife pattern myself, but feel that would be disrespectful to another craftsman.Stay sharp and stay safe!
Neil
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