Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Camden, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    3,576

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post

    Is that a piece of WA She Oak (WASO) that you used for the plane?

    What was it that made the chisel so much sharper? As I recall you normally finish sharpening on a 5k or 8k stone. What were they using in the workshop? It's an interesting topic, and one that Rob Streeper is deeply into - he reckons that over 5k is not long lasting enough for the effort of an extra stone. Was it sharpening with a guide or freehand?
    I used a piece of ‘forest oak’ to make my extra-curricular plane wheras the timber provided for the course was ‘river oak’ both of which are casuarinas and as hard as b*ggery!
    Parts of this response will be music to YOUR ears! However, there may be others who will rail and rant and claim heresy at the following. No negative correspondence will be entered in to as it works for one Japanese master craftsman and probably his master before him. Basically a new blade, like ours, or a blade with a nick, is shaped/sharpened on diamond plates from as coarse as 300# through 600# to 1000# all free hand. *
    This is then followed by carborundum powder on a ground steel plate. By making a slurry with the powder AND A FEW DROPS of water, the surface to be sharpened/honed is worked on the plate with the slurry providing a progressively finer and finer grit. The slurry is a dark grey and, after being worked, it suddenly turns a dry light grey and that is the time to stop. Any further honing and/or touching up while working, is done freehand on a 6000# water stone.

    * Amongst my number of ‘amazements’ during the course was the constant demonstration, to my eyes, that flatness of the sharpening medium is probably more important than the coarseness or fineness of the surface. The use of diamond plates and steel plates is a demonstration of this BUT I was ‘stunned’ (which is a step beyond amazed!) when we looked at the flatness, or lack thereof, of a batch of new, unused diamond plates. Most were not flat along either axis. Hiroshi-san marks his diamond plates to indicate which are the flattest!

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post

    I seriously doubt that it will take you until tomorrow to finish that!
    There’s 2 bottles?
    a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
    Posts
    4,835

    Default

    See, you have plenty of information to pass on
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  4. #18
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,649

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    Parts of this response will be music to YOUR ears!


    Quote Originally Posted by fletty View Post
    that flatness of the sharpening medium is probably more important than the coarseness or fineness of the surface.
    That is my biggest grip with waterstones - they are in fact out of flat after the very first stroke!
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
    Posts
    4,835

    Default

    Influenced by the Flettmeister, I have been acquiring Japanese toys as I can. I ran across this little number, handless on Evilbay.

    I researched the chisel and the seller and decided to take the chance on it and a few of it's brethren, full well knowing that they will require fettling.

    I was looking for something else, when I found a small blank of Cedrus Japonica in my stash. So this arvo I decided to turn the handle.

    20180707_161056[1].jpg
    Time maybe approaching for the mooted meeting!

    (Yes I know the pic is sideways, it wasn't but for some dog known reason, the BB has decided to rotate it 90° and then not allow me to correct it, #$^^##%^ computers!)
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    1,813

    Default

    Beautiful work mate, thanks for sharing!

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Towradgi
    Posts
    4,835

    Default

    Fletty, they're breeding!

    Jap tools.jpg

    I have some English oak that I will mill up for plane bodies. I'll do them the Krenov style.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Old japanese chisel
    By Tomazelli in forum JAPANESE HAND TOOLS
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 29th October 2012, 07:49 AM
  2. japanese 'slick' chisel
    By simon d in forum JAPANESE HAND TOOLS
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 3rd January 2009, 01:32 AM
  3. Advice Please.. first Japanese chisel
    By Paddy in forum JAPANESE HAND TOOLS
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 16th October 2007, 12:46 AM
  4. My New Japanese Chisel.
    By underused in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 19th March 2006, 11:40 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •