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  1. #1
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    Default An Oire Nomi WIP: Part I - Initial review on receipt

    I managed to pick up a set of Oire Nomi on eBay from Soatoz . I will have a go at preparing them in accordance with his instructions and post my observations.

    The chisels themselves arrived in a small box, individually wrapped in a sleeve of plastic with a hardened plastic tip protector.

    Sockets
    I closely inspected each chisel for flaws or imperfections and found a few. The first thing I noted was the joins on the socket were not all complete, a number of the chisels were showing a line where the socket had been assembled (neck to collar or ferrule). It should be visible in picture #4.
    Effect: I don't think this will be a problem. The chisels are functional and the aesthetics are different to quality Western chisels, they are also hand made.
    The general finish was a little coarser than I expected, grinding and finishing marks are visible. These are not a concern and add to the character of the tool.

    Handles
    Each one is solid with no flaws, the hoops have not yet been set. General feel and heft of the chisels is good. They fit my large hands well.

    The business end
    The blades are all in a prepared condition, requiring some work to be ready for use. By Western standards they would be ready to use and if you were to compare them to an off-the-shelf Marples you'd say the Marples needed tuning whilst the Japanese chisel was good enough to go. The bevels have been made even and ground level with the back (something that really bugged me about my Marples when I had a close look, the grind was wrong). The profile of the bevel is very even on all the chisels, this is a good thing.

    Backs
    All of the backs seem to be in fairly good condition with one chisel standing out from the rest. I think Soatoz worked the back of the 23mm chisel as it is noticeably better than the rest (centre of pic #3). I can tell the edge will be better already because the back is smoother. This will be my yardstick for the rest when I get to them.

    General
    Anyone hoping for "pretty" chisels like the LN will be disappointed, although these have a distinct rustic charm about them they are not finished to polished standards.

    They look and feel rugged and 'tight', for want of a better word. Those who have held a LN 601/2 and compared it to its Stanley equivalent will probably know what I mean. It feels like it means business, so do these chisels.

    I've attached a few pics to start with and I'll post some more as I prepare them, using Soatoz's instructions. EDIT: don't hold your breath, this will probably take a while to complete. The missus wants her pantry finished first.
    Last edited by Groggy; 9th August 2007 at 11:03 PM.

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  3. #2
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    Thumbs up Thanks Groggy

    I'm really glad you are doing this Groggy. I had a lot of detailed discussions with So about Japanese chisels, value for money versus quality, use with hardwood versus softwood, Laminated White and Blue and unlaminated HSS. I was going to bid on the ones you bought but after all the discussions I have settled on a set of 10 HSS handmades at around 700 bucks incl stamped box. Hope to receive them within a month. It'll be interesting to compare notes. Equally interesting will be the comparison with my razor sharp E A Bergs.
    Cheers
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  4. #3
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    Default

    Gday Groggy, nice chisels. I got a set from Japan about 3 months ago that look pretty much exactly the same. I am yet to use them, mainly because I haven't got around to setting the ferrules.

    There are some good tutorials on setting the ferrules on the net if you haven't already found them. I will watch with interest.

    On the close up in pic 4, it look like there is a crack in the steel?
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shedhand View Post
    I'm really glad you are doing this Groggy. I had a lot of detailed discussions with So about Japanese chisels, value for money versus quality, use with hardwood versus softwood, Laminated White and Blue and unlaminated HSS. I was going to bid on the ones you bought but after all the discussions I have settled on a set of 10 HSS handmades at around 700 bucks incl stamped box.
    Sheddy, I decided on the white steel for one main reason, unlike a plane, I don't use it to hog off large amounts of timber. So if I sharpen them after each session, which I tend to do anyway, I shouldn't notice the difference. I can't really justify double the price for the way I will use them.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post
    There are some good tutorials on setting the ferrules on the net if you haven't already found them. I will watch with interest.
    If you still have the links to any really good ones I'd appreciate them.

    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post
    On the close up in pic 4, it look like there is a crack in the steel?
    I mentioned that under "Sockets". The socket is a composite of the neck and a ferrule or collar, which is attached to strengthen the join of the wooden handle and metal spear. This is why that part has been ground. So long as the socket is structurally sound I don't mind the join showing. Very high quality chisels are likely to have no grinding and the socket will be the one colour.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    If you still have the links to any really good ones I'd appreciate them.

    I mentioned that under "Sockets". The socket is a composite of the neck and a ferrule or collar, which is attached to strengthen the join of the wooden handle and metal spear. This is why that part has been ground. So long as the socket is structurally sound I don't mind the join showing. Very high quality chisels are likely to have no grinding and the socket will be the one colour.
    Here is a link to some information on Japanese Chisels.

    ....and here is a guide to setting the hoops on a Japanese Chisel.
    I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
    Albert Einstein

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by martrix View Post
    Here is a link to some information on Japanese Chisels.

    ....and here is a guide to setting the hoops on a Japanese Chisel.
    Thanks for those, I am collecting a few and will post them when and where I use them.

  9. #8
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    Default Practice Run

    Thanks to Schtoo, I have a cheapo carbon steel Oire Nomi that I was able to practice on. Today I spent an hour experimenting with sharpening and shaving various body parts. The aim was not to have the scariest sharp chisel in the shed, but to get used to what I needed to do with the real deal.

    First thing was flattening the back. I put it on a 1000 King stone and spent 10 mins getting it kind of flat. I also had to remove a sawtooth burr from the sides of the chisel. The ura is uneven and looks like it was hand ground on an old wheel, it took a while to get an even back. Then the chisel was flipped and I roughed the angle ready for honing. I don't know if you can see it in the pics but the bevel was ground a few degrees off from the factory.

    Finally, on to the 8000 King to polish it up. This is where I discovered mistake number one. In my haste to get it done I didn't take enough meat of the back, and found I had a small area near the edge that was not flat (note to self, check when doing the real thing).

    I found the sharpening style Soatoz describes to be quite effective, and I can see the necessity to have dead flat stones. If they are not (mine are - now ) you can feel the blade 'spoon' into the hollow in the stone, smoothing the corners.
    I need more practice at holding the angle whilst pushing across the blade but overall I am happy for a first attempt.

    The handle was sanded back after I sharpened (I left the lacquer on to keep the junk and metal out of the wood) and the hoop removed. I then hammered the top 10mm of the handle to crush it, then placed the hoop back on. From there, the hoop was tapped down until I could see an even 2mm of wood over the top. Once achieved, the next step was to pein the timber down over the hoop. Finally, I dipped the handle in Groggy's special mix of timber treatment to help the wood swell and tighten the hoop.

  10. #9
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    Hey Groggy,

    They are fine chisles & will serve you well for the rest of your life. I also ended up with a set of Oire Nomi from Garrett Wade Aust. when they were closing down. They range in size from 1.5mm to 42mm, 12 in all & I just love 'em!!
    I don't have a good pic of them but this is what I cropped out of another shot.
    Cheers

    Major Panic

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MajorPanic View Post
    Hey Groggy,

    They are fine chisles & will serve you well for the rest of your life. I also ended up with a set of Oire Nomi from Garrett Wade Aust. when they were closing down. They range in size from 1.5mm to 42mm, 12 in all & I just love 'em!!
    I don't have a good pic of them but this is what I cropped out of another shot.
    Love the oriental style holders - tres bonne Major san

  12. #11
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    Default

    what groggy said.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  13. #12
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    Default Japanese Chisel Structure


  14. #13
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    Default

    So, are you still out there? I am finished with the study, have the pantry well on the way and can spare some time to do a few chisels. I'll start again this weekend (all being well).

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    So, are you still out there? I am finished with the study, have the pantry well on the way and can spare some time to do a few chisels. I'll start again this weekend (all being well).
    Hi Groggy~~~~~!

    Welcome back from the study

    Yeah, I'm still alive and well. I was planning on adding more articles regarding J tools here, but I'm getting overwhelming amount of enquiries lately, I can't get to it.

    BTW, all the J tool fans out there, Toshio Odate's book on How to use J tools are amazingly well written. Basically almost everything that I was going to post here are in the book, so if you don't have a copy get one!!!! You can either get it from me, or from Kinokuniya book store in Sydney. Either way the price is the same.

    Anyway.... Yeah, we should difinitely do it Groggy. But since I'm taking a lo~~~ng off to keep my sanity, I'll get back to you when I come back. In the meantime, I suggest getting the book and study the basics! Really this book is great! Oh, but the thing is there is one thing I don't do it the Odate-san's way. Apart from this everything is in common. This one thing is chisel sharpening.... It's how he holds his chisel when he sharpens. He holds the end of the handle, but if you hold the end, there's no way you can keep the bevel flat. I'll tell you more in detail when I come back with photos.

    Okay, take care mate, and I'll talk to you soon.

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