Thread: Man Made Stone Suggestions

For what to get and where, I'd recommend: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/...oducts_id=1667 as one possible source. Be sure to peruse all of what's available there. Some of your countrymen/women may also point out places closer to home.

Steve

Cheers for the suggestion. I'll have more of a poke around that site and see what I can find. More suggestions/information is of course welcome.

Stu from tools from Japan is a great resource and place to buy.

I am mad for Sigma Power Ceramic Stones, they are rock hard in their feel, are next to impossible to dish and abrade all steels like blowtorch through butter. And would recommend them to anyone asking your question.

I am not a fan of the Sigma Power 'Select II' stones, having had an opportunity to use them, they are more spongy and wear to quickly for my tastes.

Since I like an extra firm stone, I hate the give, that feeling of being on a water bed, that you get from stones like the Kings.

I also have used a Bester brand Ceramic waterstone, #1000 and its a very nice stone much like the Sigma Power in terms of characteristics.

This a thread I started years ago about my experience with Sigma Power.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f111/definition-hardness-water-stones-sigma-power-stones-115390

Always wanted to do a follow up on that thread.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Stu from tools from Japan is a great resource and place to buy.

I am mad for Sigma Power Ceramic Stones, they are rock hard in their feel, are next to impossible to dish and abrade all steels like blowtorch through butter. And would recommend them to anyone asking your question.

I am not a fan of the Sigma Power 'Select II' stones, having had an opportunity to use them, they are more spongy and wear to quickly for my tastes.

Since I like an extra firm stone, I hate the give, that feeling of being on a water bed, that you get from stones like the Kings.

I also have used a Bester brand Ceramic waterstone, #1000 and its a very nice stone much like the Sigma Power in terms of characteristics.

This a thread I started years ago about my experience with Sigma Power.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f111/definition-hardness-water-stones-sigma-power-stones-115390

Always wanted to do a follow up on that thread.

Will happily read it if you do. I seem to recall a link to Stu's site in the Natural Water Stones thread. I'll have a peek, cheers.

Originally Posted by Sheets

For what to get and where, I'd recommend: http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/...oducts_id=1667 as one possible source. Be sure to peruse all of what's available there. Some of your countrymen/women may also point out places closer to home.

Steve

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

Stu from tools from Japan is a great resource and place to buy.

I am mad for Sigma Power Ceramic Stones, they are rock hard in their feel, are next to impossible to dish and abrade all steels like blowtorch through butter. And would recommend them to anyone asking your question.

I am not a fan of the Sigma Power 'Select II' stones, having had an opportunity to use them, they are more spongy and wear to quickly for my tastes.

Since I like an extra firm stone, I hate the give, that feeling of being on a water bed, that you get from stones like the Kings.

I also have used a Bester brand Ceramic waterstone, #1000 and its a very nice stone much like the Sigma Power in terms of characteristics.

This a thread I started years ago about my experience with Sigma Power.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f111/definition-hardness-water-stones-sigma-power-stones-115390

Always wanted to do a follow up on that thread.

Ok so I've had a little poke around that site and suffice to say I'm impressed with the line up. Up until this point I was looking at purchasing a set of Chosera stones but you have both pushed me towards the Sigma Power stones. Thumbsucker, do you like the look of the set that Sheets has pointed me towards? If you do and I hear no objections/different suggestions, I'll purchase these in the next day or so.

Just to clarify, the currency that site uses is Yen (Jap) correct? Couldn't find any option to change the currency....

Along the left hand side bar, there is a currency selector (I always select the one that gives the smallest numbers - I save money that way).

I prefer a softer stone myself for knives.

You might like to go beyond the 3K up to at least a 5-6K stone.

Dave Martell who makes a living from sharpening Japanese knives has a recommended core set of man made stones that he sells. Dave's core set.

Stu at Tools from Japan is very knowledgeable about the various manufactured stones and I'm sure he could supply you with similar stones to those recommended by Dave Martell.

Neil

You have to answer your own question = what do you expect those edges to do?
You want to play with a 1.8kg froe and a 1.5kg alder log mallet?
Perhaps put a good edge on a new razor blade (yup, can be done).

I've been wood carving for 15+ years, mostly softwoods which crush and pop apart. If anything,
my edges must be far sharper than for harder woods, they have to cut soft materials like over-ripe tomatoes in the kitchen.
My honing compound, on various strops, is 30,000 grit or finer.
Follow your own work with a 10X magnifier.
That compensates for the inability of the human eye to resolve finer and finer scratches in metals.
The observations are sure to be depressing!

There's a concept in wood carving called "carving sharp."
In terms of edge management, the best you can do for the tasks at hand.
I don't dwell on it but there's a satisfaction that I can see and feel when I get it done right.

There are all kinds of sharpening gurus and equipment out there, as you well know.
The key is to pick one system. Any one, does not matter. Learn it.
The end results are the same.

Cheers for that.

Originally Posted by NeilS

I prefer a softer stone myself for knives.

You might like to go beyond the 3K up to at least a 5-6K stone.

Dave Martell who makes a living from sharpening Japanese knives has a recommended core set of man made stones that he sells. Dave's core set.

Stu at Tools from Japan is very knowledgeable about the various manufactured stones and I'm sure he could supply you with similar stones to those recommended by Dave Martell.

Neil

Talk about throwing a cat amongst the pigeons . Currently trying to decide whether I prefer hard or soft stones now.

The set Sheets linked to is a very nice set. If Stu feel that the jump from #1000 to #60000 to $12000 is doable then I can only agree with Stu.

I have the #2000 and the #8000 grit Sigmas Powers as well on top of the stones in the aforementioned set. The #2000 helps to refine the edge a little faster from the #1000 but its not essential. The #8000 is the softest of the Sigma Power stones and I am told one of their oldest and most people would be happy with it to finish on, for me its a quick touch on the #8000 before I move to the #12000.

Some may question why go as far as a #12000 but once you feel that edge, the way everything just becomes that so much sweeter. Stopping at the usual #6000 will never do.

I am contemplating either a natural stone or a Suehiro Gokumyo #20000 grit (@ 0.5 µm) for a measly AU$306.50. Still cheaper then a comparable natural stone. I looked up a natural stone today for $2500.

A quick note you will need someway to maintain the flatness of your stones. Sandpaper will not work on the Sigmas, the only sure path is a diamond plate. Like these Atoma that Stu sells just bear that in your calculations.

Originally Posted by thumbsucker

The set Sheets linked to is a very nice set. If Stu feel that the jump from #1000 to #60000 to $12000 is doable then I can only agree with Stu.

I have the #2000 and the #8000 grit Sigmas Powers as well on top of the stones in the aforementioned set. The #2000 helps to refine the edge a little faster from the #1000 but its not essential. The #8000 is the softest of the Sigma Power stones and I am told one of their oldest and most people would be happy with it to finish on, for me its a quick touch on the #8000 before I move to the #12000.

Some may question why go as far as a #12000 but once you feel that edge, the way everything just becomes that so much sweeter. Stopping at the usual #6000 will never do.

I am contemplating either a natural stone or a Suehiro Gokumyo #20000 grit (@ 0.5 µm) for a measly AU$306.50. Still cheaper then a comparable natural stone. I looked up a natural stone today for $2500.

A quick note you will need someway to maintain the flatness of your stones. Sandpaper will not work on the Sigmas, the only sure path is a diamond plate. Like these Atoma that Stu sells just bear that in your calculations.

Included in the set that Sheets recommended. Basically for free I believe.

Not free but a $26.05 saving ($287.15 Full Price for individual items - AU$261.10 Set Price).

Still a good buy.

I have a 1000/3000 combo from one of the local home shops, it was under 2000 yen. I had a lesson a while back from a man from a knife company in Sakai. He recommended using #1000. You can go higher than that if you want but he seemed to be of the opinion for most uses it isn't necessary. I think they only recommend going higher for sashimi knives.