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  1. #16
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    Barry, as I said in the linked thread all you can do is try it and if you feel adventurous try other ideas as well and 3mm MDF is a cheap way to prototype designs if you want to try different ideas. I wouldn't think the sloping curved top is necessary but then I haven't got a clue and it may work better than a flat top. if it were me I would build the thing in 3mm MDF if only for the patterns.
    CHRIS

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  3. #17
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Trying to stay away from MDF as much as possible.

    The link in my original post is from an engineer who has some pretty bright ideas.
    And discusses keeping the measurements tight for air movement.
    As pulling air comes from all directions.
    We can't control it as well as pushing air.

    The 1mm is quite flexible.
    You can just roll it up and tie a string around it for transport.

    You can cut it with a knife.

    So don't pay $5 a cut.

    The guy that served me was throwing it around like he wasn't concerned at all.
    He told me at 1mm thickness he could only cut within 1-2mm accuracy.

    I watched them cut some 1mm.
    They were shoving it thru the blade like they were on speed and it was an inconvenience.

    So they weren't concerned with accuracy at all.

    Anyway hope my experience gives others a heads up on what to expect and how to handle the medium.

    If I were to use another medium it would be in white as the dark brown sucks all the light from my vision.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  4. #18
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Heads up handling this brittle medium.

    Even though I was carful handling it.
    A number of cracks were discovered.
    And I actually tripped over another cause I couldn't see it and broke it.
    Not worth the price or the hassle.

    Got a really nice looking 3mm ply today made from kauri? Maybe not.
    ~$18 for the full 1200x 2400 sheet at masters.

    Looks beautiful
    And was much lighter in colour than the masonite.

    For some reason Masters panel cutter is facing the wrong way.
    I was very clear about how I wanted the panel cut.
    But they got it wrong.

    I actually said cut it long ways not short ways.
    I even motioned to the guy standing right next to him watching to make sure he was cutting it horizontally long ways.
    And I just got the affirmative nod of course.
    Then he acted like he was mad cause he got it wrong.

    I need a proximity reminder on my phone to know that I'm at masters and ask for only this guy or that guy.
    Sam or Rog only. Consistently excellent service. Its the only reason I return.

    If the cutter was facing the other way so I could see I would have told him he was cutting the wrong way.

    Oh and now I remember I asked for a pen but strangely they didn't have one.
    I pulled two from my car one to use and one to leave for them.
    But it was so freaking cold at 5 neither would work.
    It just wan't meant to work out well.

    Oh, and picked up some huge offcuts of really nice 18mm structural ply.
    about 4 full sheets worth for $20.
    At least that part worked out.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  5. #19
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    Oct 2014
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    Caroline Springs, VIC
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    Did you get 1mm perspex (acrylic) or 1mm polycarb? I have used 1mm polycarb for some temporary staircase barrier thing so the owners could get there occupancy permits because they spaced the balusters too far apart. It comes in a roll of umpteen meters and I just kept it in the roll and rolled in over the sawblade on the panel saw to cut it to width. I couldn't crack that stuff if I tried. If I got a chisel and jammed it into the edge, I could tear the sheet a little with a great deal of effort.

  6. #20
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    Jul 1999
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    perspex

    will have look at polycarb for the next project.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  7. #21
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    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  8. #22
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    OK. A year later and I'm having a quick go at it again.
    Still waiting for my melamine to be cut and delivered. Grrrr

    IMG_1234.jpg Untitled.png Untitled.jpg


    Used Flattery.rbz in sketchup to unravel the curve.
    IMG_1273.jpg


    Way too freakin cold to work in the shop this avo.

    Plotted the layout on kitchen table.
    I'm hoping 24 segments per circle. (12 per half circle) is enough for practical use.
    IMG_1278.jpg

    Next prototype:
    IMG_1242.jpg

    Hopefully will cut the perspex first thing tomorrow.
    And see if I have gotten even close to the correct shape.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  9. #23
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Darn! Stuck again!

    the 3mm perspecs was so damaged it was dangerous to work with.

    But the concept was close.

    Came back inside to see if I could plot a bit closer.

    With the top and bottom trenches are already cut and working horizontal.

    I wanted to just tilt the back of the top down to reduce the space.

    In sketchup I found that the trench is a maximum 33mm off with the back of the top tilted down.

    Is there some spacial genius that can help with this?

    thanks in advance


    Untitled.jpeg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  10. #24
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kuffy View Post
    Did you get 1mm perspex (acrylic) or 1mm polycarb? I have used 1mm polycarb for some temporary staircase barrier thing so the owners could get there occupancy permits because they spaced the balusters too far apart. It comes in a roll of umpteen meters and I just kept it in the roll and rolled in over the sawblade on the panel saw to cut it to width. I couldn't crack that stuff if I tried. If I got a chisel and jammed it into the edge, I could tear the sheet a little with a great deal of effort.
    Just about to order the polycarb to replace my plexiglass.
    Can you confirm you used the 1mm?
    Maybe I should go with the 2mm or 3mm.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  11. #25
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    Oct 2014
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    Caroline Springs, VIC
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    Barry. I did this thing for a client back in 2007, 10 years ago. It may have been 1mm, maybe 1.5, maybe even 2mm. I can only guarantee that it was 'temporary' for the sole purpose of gaining a permit and it was thinner than the materials I was using on a day to day basis being 3mm and 4.5mm acrylic for shop front signage. I would expect the 1mm poly to achieve its purpose unless you are constantly flinging offcuts back at the housing behind the saw (I do it at work all the time because I am all rush rush). And even then you would need to fling the offcuts back at the same exact point to work harden that area of the sheet to make it brittle enough to be penetrated. If in doubt and money isn't a concern, buy thicker but don't go overboard because you still need to bend it, without the aid of heat.

    I am assuming that the polycarb is simply seating into a groove top and bottom and is not being asked to perform structural duties.

  12. #26
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    Jul 1999
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    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
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    Thanks for the quick reply Kuffy.
    Much appreciated.

    I was hoping I could get away with the 1mm at ~$60.

    It's got to roll up and fit in the back of the car as well.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  13. #27
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    !mm should be OK especially if you are going to curve it.
    I use 1 mm on saw guards and it works fine and it won't shatter like acrylic.
    It makes a good transparent protective surface for wooden tables.

  14. #28
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    Untitled.jpegUntitled2.jpegUntitled3.jpg

    Started again.

    Segmented the half circle trench.

    Copied it. Placed it at 370 to account for the trench depths.

    flipped it. Angled it.

    Drew connecting lines.

    To make the segments I created rectangle as close to the connection points as possible.

    Moved the rectangle corners to exactly where I needed them.

    Made just enough to for half (of the half circle tranch. Then copied and used scale to make a mirror.

    Copied both halves over to a new project.

    Used the rotate tool to unfold the first group of segments. Then again for less segments. Then again for less segments.

    Still 32mm out on a couple of segments but don't know how to rotate them without loosing my linear spacials.

    I'm hoping this is close enough.

    Untitled4.jpeg
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  15. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Mornington Peninsula, Vic
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    3

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    You might try this...

    https://sketchucation.com/pluginstore?pln=Flattery

    Whoops, just saw that you knew about Flattery already.


    Quote Originally Posted by barrysumpter View Post
    Hi all,

    I've been following this gentlemans' techniques for designing a tight mitre saw dust hood for my Makita 1216 DCMS.
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOk...F-qUO6C4Nh3lBA

    I've designed a curved back that has a curved top.

    I can't seem to find a way to unravel the back to layout a pattern to cut from 3mm flexible material.

    Any positive constructive help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.Attachment 391682 Attachment 391683

  16. #30
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    All good.

    Any positive response and/or suggestion is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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