Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 19 of 19
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    171

    Default updated design

    After constructing the five main panels for the cabinet I discovered it was going to be hugely difficult to get everything square when glueing them up into a frame (pic1)... not to mention massively heavy, cumbersome and requiring every clamp in the shop!

    Decided to change the design and was prepared to buy more timber but discovered I can make a lighter (and easier to get square) frame by ripping the base panel down into several lengths (pic2). The rebate for the shelf has already been cut in the side panels so I have had to work the new design around that.

    The end product will look pretty similar to the original plan once finished (pic3) except the central section of base will be plywood not hardwood.

    I'd appreciate any comments on the new (hopefully improved) design?

    Steph

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Nicholls ACT
    Posts
    728

    Default

    How will you allow for wood movement with a plywood panel inside a hardwood case? Just asking as I am trying to design a long low cabinet and did not want a solid timber base - price and time.

    Pusser

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    171

    Default

    Hmm actually I might not need to put a panel in there at all. There is already a rebate cut in the bottom of the side panels.

    The cabinet will be on castors which I was thinking I'd mount to the timber rails which I could probably make wider (eg 100) because I have a 450 wide panel already made for the base.

    Steph

  5. #19
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Eden Hills, South Australia
    Age
    63
    Posts
    3,458

    Default

    Looking good Steph. The latest FWW magazine has an article on the use of Sketchup in woodwork design; might be worth you having a read.

    I recommend drawing all the details for drawer runners, small gaps for movement, joinery, etc. A lot easier to sort out those details in the drawing, than during construction.

    Have you tried downloading models from the 3D warehouse? You could get hold of a TV, and castor models and add them in.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. gibson truss rod curve
    By jtmullet2006 in forum MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 1st April 2009, 12:33 AM
  2. My Learning Curve Box!
    By Effigy in forum BOX MAKING
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 5th September 2006, 03:57 PM
  3. Follow that Curve!
    By jacko in forum WOODWORK PICS
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 19th July 2005, 11:25 PM
  4. Cretan curve
    By ribot in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 17th November 2004, 03:40 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •