Thread: nEED ADVISE ON HEADLIGHTS

Can't advise on what type of globe to use as I can't remember what I used in the old Holden before I got my new Hilux, but I can tell you this. You will need to have a relay put in as the original won't cope with the extra output of the H4 Halogen globes

BT,
they're halogen bulbs . It's possible to get bulbs that are 130/90, ie 130 watts high beam, 90 watts low beam. Sealed beams are usually 60/55, but may be as low as 60/45. Halogen has a whiter light compared to tungsten (sealed beam) and more light output for the same wattage. There's newer bulbs that give out a blue/white light that's supposedly brighter again. As a lot of the newer vehicle have plastic headlights they require special bulbs that have a different light frequency output so as not to degrade the plastic over time (UV?). Be asware that if you go for higher wattage bulbs you will probably need to upgrade your wiring to suit. If you want I can give you more detailed instructions for this.

Mick (who had lights so bright in his car he made a train dip its lights )

BT I think you should be replacing them with fluoros. Don't you care about global warming?

Try these.

"Blue" is not necessarily better -

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...e/bad/bad.html

Cheers,
Andrew

Another solution would be to fit standard halogen globes plus additional driving lights for when you are out in the bush.

That way you won't be blinding other drivers in normal driving and you have the option of the stronger beam when you need it.

A mate up this way has four driving lights. One set beam out to the sides to illuminate roos and the other set beam straight ahead for the ruts and potholes. Each set have their own switch.

Just to add, I had a blown globe & replaced my VR Commodore main headlight globes this week with "Plus 50" by Narva I think, same wattage as the standard issue (60/55 high/low beam) but definitely better output. Still a white light, not blue or anything else. $30 the pair I think.

A lot of the globes mentioned UV Cut, which would be what Mick is talking about above re: polycarbonate lensed headlights.

I have found in the past that the higher wattage globes have not lasted as long - dunno, but that's what I've experienced. That's why I went for the standard wattage.

Have read that the blue lights aren't as good in foggy conditions as the more yellow (relatively speaking) of standard halogen.

If you go with driving lights, the setup I had once was one spot & one spread beam, I found this was a good combination. They were Narva lights, sold as a "Combo" kit.
190mm dia head I think.

I think anything would be an upgrade on sealed beams.


Cheers.....................Sean

You haven't said what car it is. If it's a standard headlight size; 7" round single, 5-1/4" round twin, 240 x 160 (I think) rectangular (common from the early 80's), then you can buy an upgrade/conversion kit which will have everything in it required to convert your sealed beam headlights to semi-sealed (replaceable globe).

As was said, anything will be better than what you've got.

However... Some 4X4's have sealed beam to stop water from getting into the lights during water crossings. You can get replacement 7" round sealed beam Halogen inserts that are still sealed, but are brighter than the originals.

Thanks guys, all good imput as usual (... excepting Silents' obviously )

I have heard that I may need the relay and as the old rangie uses world infamous Lucas electrics its a guarantee really.*

Mick (who had lights so bright in his car he made a train dip its lights

)


Mick I am not in the least bit interested in making trains do that.... I want to start small spot fires

Anyone know how much I would expect to pay for the relay? Can I do it
myself (I'm petty handy with auto electrics)? IE can I buy a relay off the shelf?

* possibly the only worst car electrics was the VW with its 6 Volts of dimness.

Sorry Yonnee, just read your post, its an old Range Rover round lights 7" and I already have ordered the conversion lights. I'm not sure that they have the globes but my thoughts were If i'm doing this I might as well overdo it!

Good thinking about the seal, I might apply some of that spray on skin that you use on the distributer and coil.

Well OK Silent I dont want to see you upset soooo..
your idea has some merits namely:


1. as they take a while to brighten, you won't be able to drive off too quickly, letting the engine warm up and therefor saving wear and tear.




2. ermm.... there is no 2 actually .

Try the Hella replacement headlights, no need for a relay unless your wiring is old and breaking down. The Rangie should (depending on DOM) have a relay already.

Ross

Ross it a 93 but I think if it has a relay it will need upgrading if I use 130/90's for example.

I find that the older I get the dimmer the lights are getting so maybe if I get really,really bright lights I may feel young again.

Simple enough to do it yourself. You can buy the relay from any half decent auto accessory shop.

Work out what current you will be pulling through the contacts at any given time. Current = Wattage of globes divided by 12.

Basically your internal switches will control the current through the relay coil and the circuit for your lights will be switched by the relay contacts.

The advantage of using this method is that there is less current flowing through your switches (they may be rated for a lower current than what you will be drawing) plus the length of cable carrying the current for your new globes will be shorter. Shorter wires means there will be less voltage drop in the wiring.

You will need to buy some decent cable to run between your relay and your lights too. The thicker the better (within reason).

If you need further details, send me a PM with your EMAIL address.