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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default New bike - TX650

    I bought a wreck of a bike a few months ago, the idea being to fill in time and resurrect the bike. I haven't had anything to do with bikes since I sold my Bonny almost 20 years ago. I have PsA, which affects my hands, arms and feet terribly so, I'll never be able to ride it. It's a lifetime project so I'll probably never even finish it, keeps me off the streets at night though.

    The lower case was badly damaged, looked like the chain had come of, in the process it tore half the gearbox drum bearing housing off and also removed a good section of the top case of. I sourced a new, second hand one and blasted it along with the top end. The cases were then painted and I set about sticking it back together again.

    Carbs and taps were in a terrible condition so I also blasted them and put a new seal kit through them. The advance mechanism backplate had the bob weight pins set at an odd angle, each angle different. I turned up a new backplate from Delrin only to discover the reason for the angled pins: the through rod, which goes through the cam, is too short and the backing plate to thick so the bob weight heels miss the slots on the trogh rod. No real problem, I just skimmed a few mms off the face of the backplate and all works well now. The backing plate is secured in place by a thin, recessed, castelated nut which proved difficult to remove. Once it was off I made a four pronged spanner for re-assembly.

    The alternator proved a little stubborn to remove so I made up a puller, cutting an 18 x 1.5 thread on the lathe. Worked well with the rotor coming off in a few turns. Sidecovers, rocker covers, carb tops and bottoms, cam chain adjuster, dipstick, starter motor ends and a few other bits and pieces were cleaned up and polished.

    Handlebar switchblocks were a mess so I blasted them, polished them, replaced a few cables and stuck them back together. I've also mounted a temporary ignition circuit together to start the engine when I'm ready. Original rectifier was stuffed so I replaced it with a $3, three phase unit from China. Solenoid was also stuffed so I also replaced it with a cheap unit from China. Parts prices for the XS/TX650s are ridiculous so, where possible, I've made parts myself or replaced them with parts from other manufacturers or China. Budget build, no point in spending big dollars on a bike Ii can never ride and probably will never finish.

    I'm polishing the fork sliders at the moment. BZike came with mags and the original wheels so I decided on using the original spoked wheels. I polished the hubs only to find the rs too badly damaged to use again so I'll probably be using the mags unless I can find a couple of ally rims in good nick for a good price.

    The engine has two oil filters one in the sump and another in the right hand sidecover. I cleaned up the latter and replaced it but, the sump filter was cactus. ?I discovered the sump filter was going to cost a small filter so have decided to make up an alternative using a spin on filter, just haven't worked out how to do it yet. I'll probably tap through the upper case and remote mount the filter housing in front of the engine.
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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    Be careful with exposure to hydrocarbons, on your skin or via inhalation.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    From?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    Nice work on the restoration Tony.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    From?
    Gasoline especially and motor oil. Any solvents, particularly those containing aromatic hydrocarbons such as lacquer thinner and chlorinated solvents such as parts cleaners.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    I've been sucking in petrol and thinner fumes for most of my 68 years, hasn't affected me yet yet yet yet yet yet yet yet yet yet yet yet yet

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    3,070

    Default

    In my experience hydrocarbons, particularly aromatics and halogenated, aggravate autoimmune issues. We've seen similar in the lab and the scientific literature contains numerous examples.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,972

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rob streeper View Post
    In my experience hydrocarbons, particularly aromatics and halogenated, aggravate autoimmune issues. We've seen similar in the lab and the scientific literature contains numerous examples.
    Bugger [emoji849]

    Cheers Matt,

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    Well, they should have a ball playing around in my body, I've got a few autoimminune conditions: RA, PsA, diabetes, thyroid problems.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    Here's some more work I've done on the TX. I was going to bin the wheels, the rims were badly pitted, looks like salt damage, and the hubs weren't much better. I ground the sides of the rims down with an angle grinder then smoothed and polished with finer grade disks. There was a deep scallop on the other side of the walls so I shaped a nylon fibre wheel and ground the pits out then smoothed and polished, came up pretty good I think. The hub had the bridges ground down with a cutting disk on the angle grinder then I stuck it on the lathe and cut between the fins to even up and smooth them out. After that I stuck it on the lathe again and polished between the fins with fine wet and dry lubed with coolant. After that I polished it all up with a sisal mop and grey rouge, then a sewn cloth mop and brown, then a loose cloth mop and green. Came up like chrome very happy with the results.
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  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,470

    Default

    Looks fantastic.
    Wouldn't mind betting you are going to have a hard time not riding this bike when you finish it.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    No chance of that.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    Well, so much for all that work, decided I didn't like the motor in its silver livery, so I tore it down again, blasted the cases again and painted them black. Re assembled with new gaskets and seals and replaced the cam chain. Once again, it roared into life with the first push of the button. I made a new manometer, a little more aesthetically pleasing and a little more professional: This one has neoprene gaskets top and bottom, sandwiched between ply platforms, clamped together with three lengths of all thread, works a treat.

    Since the last post, I've beaten up some side panels from 1.5 mm aluminium and polished them to see how they look. Welded tabs on the frame for mounting them, spun up some positive stop nuts and mounted the panels in rubber. I've also added a battery carrier to the engine trolly and re built the electrical system using an electronic reg/rec unit.

    Today I cut out a seat base and shaped and polished some 10 mm aluminium aluminium engine mounts. Tomorrow, I'll beat the seat base into shape.
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  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default New seat base

    I beat up the seat base to match the frame rails and also beat up a cowl and welded it to the rear of the seat. Decided I dIdn't like it, so I cut the rear cowl off, lowered the back and cut and welded the cowl back on. The cowl is now closer to the angle of the tank. Unfortunately, the cowl proved to short second time around, so I had to cut it down the middle and bend it to the new shape. That left a 3mm gap between the halves I had to fill witlh weld. Worked out in the end, but the skirt at the rear sits a little higher than I would have liked.
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  16. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    615

    Default

    For the seat pan front mount I used a small piece of 3mm plate, welded an 8mm spigot to it and bolted it to the pan. The frame mount was a piece of 22mm tube, welded to a piece of 3mm x 25mm shaped angle. a small piece of 8mm ID rubber tube slides over the spigot on the pan and is seated inside the 22mm tube giving a rubber mount to protect against the vibes of the TX650 I also fabricated a hump to to go over the tank mount and welded it to the front of the pan. I haven't decided on a rear mount yet, but I'm leaning toward a mount either side of the cowl, just above the shocky mount.
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