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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    If you don't have a clutch locking tool, or don't want to waste plates making one, here's an idea: a lump of 25mm x 6mm steel with two lugs welded on at the appropriate intervals to slot into the centre rotor grooves. It has to be off centre a little so the socket can get to the centre nut. It works well and doesn't mark the centre rotor. I also modified the pressure plate spring screws to take an allen head screw. Much better than those damn JIS screw heads which funnily enough are always stripped from someone using a philips head screwdriver on them. Yes, you can buy them, but why, when you can modify the existing ones in about 10 minutes.
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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Here's a couple of sites I administer and document my work, bike builds and other stuff. Australian Metalwork Shop and, Australian XS650 custom cafe racer builders

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

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    You might recall the coil mounting bracket I made a little while ago. I mounted it on itís side because there wasnít room between the frame tubes to mount it right way up. This meant the two plug leads were a different length and took different paths from coil to plugs. I said I could live with that at the time, but, I couldnít, it just hurt my neatness sensibilities too much. The problem was the two, long, mounting bolls either end of the coil, they were simply too long to fit between the frame tubes so I discarded them and made a new bracket that the coil ends bolt straight to, negating the need for the two long bolts. This of course required some fancy bending of the bracket to get the mounting holes in the centre of the backbone tube and at the right height. A certain amount of cutting and removing material was also required so the coil would sit flat and far enough away from the tab for mounting the flasher can. But, success, I managed to get everything right on the second go, so now the coil sits right way up and most importantly the plug leads are identical in length and take the same path to the plugs. Youíll notice the rear coil bolt is a mickey hair away from the backbone tube. I could have mounted the coil further forward, but that would render the tab in front useless for mounting a flasher can. Unfortunately, it doesnít look quite as Smick as the side mounting bracket, but I can live with that Ė I think?
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  5. #64
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Progress is slowing down, running short of motivation I think. I might attack the seat pan next I think. When I welded the seat pan up I fabricated a squarish box at the nose to clear the tank mounting tab, but the shape of the box makes it difficult to upholster, so I'll cut the box off and fabricate a piece from edge to edge with a gently sweeping curve over the tank tab.
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  6. #65
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Shockies came today, bike is starting to look like a bike now. Huge mistake though, I ordered the shockies in all black, should have bought the ones with chrome springs, damn! Here's a tip though, before you throw away your old shockies, take the rubber grommets out, they also fit the foot pegs. With a lot of fiddling that is.
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  7. #66
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Replaced the crusty old brake rod with a nice shiny one I made on the lathe. hinge pin and adjuster nut also turned up on the lathe.
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  8. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

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    Just can't stop ripping things apart, story oof my life. This thing is 10 years old now, time for a birthday party: complete strip down, clean and inspect
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  9. #68
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

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    All back together, nice and clean, no damage, except for the cross feed nut which is a little worn. Ready to be made filthy again.
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  10. #69
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Age
    69
    Posts
    3,325

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    I've one here that needs assembly, IF you're looking for something to do?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    I couldn't find any risers that I liked, so I made these up from a block of ally I bought. I was going to make up some round ones, but I like these, so these are what I'll stick with. The polished ally master cylinder and switch blocks are going in favour of some black ones, just too much shiny stuff up here.
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  12. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    The new Narva switch arrived a few days ago, still undecided on where to park it??? I made two brackets for it:, one hanging off the rear engine mount, the other a bit further back directly under the side panel. The switch isn't the best looking thing. so I turned up a two piece Delrin cover for it. A ring mount of Delrin with a .6mm lip is mounted between switch and bracket, once hooked up a Delrin cover is pushed over the mounting ring and held in place via a groove I machined inside the cover and the .6mm lip I machined on the the mounting ring. Mounted behind the the rear engine mount the cover is visible, mounted directly under the side panel only the switch face is visible. The cover just acting as a dust cover. Leaning toward the latter mount.
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  13. #72
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    51
    Posts
    2,499

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    The new Narva switch arrived a few days ago, still undecided on where to park it???

    Leaning toward the latter mount.
    For what itís worth I agree.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default Handlebar switchgear.

    Master cylinder and clutch lever came this morning. I was going to put a kit through the stock master cylinder and buy a new clutch lever, until I discovered the kit was $78, then I had to fork out out for a new clutch lever as well. It appears the 74 TX came with a 5/8" master cylinder bore, all other years, the kits are only $35, just my luck. Anyway, I did some googling and found a master cylinder and clutch lever combo on Banggood for $65, so bought them. Pretty well made, levers are adjustable, but do require a largish hand, even on the closest setting. Levers are well made, master cylinder casting is a little rough, but good enough. I did want black bars with polished aluminium fittings, but settled for the opposite, chrome bars, polished aluminium risers and black fittings. They look all right though.
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  15. #74
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Some work on the rear end: The guard was badly dented and had a couple of cracks running out from the tail light fixing holes. I cut the lip from the periphery off, removed some dents as best I could and removed the bracing underneath at the rear end of the guard. The cracks I removed by drilling a bloody great hole, around 48mm, in the mounting area. This left a bit of problem on how to mount the new tail light. The solution was to insert a big grommet in the hole with a 38mm ID hole, next I spun up an aluminium bush to fit inside the grommet with a 50mm lip to compress the grommet. The tail light base was fashioned from 3mm steel with a 10mm nut welded in the middle. Over that I welded a bit of 30mm square tube and welded a flat plate on the other end the same shape as the tail light. Next I mounted the bracket on the mill and drilled some lightning holes. A 10mm fixing bolt was drilled through for cabling access to the light. I was worried about the tail light twisting in the grommet there being just one bolt securing it, but when done up, it proved to be solid as. Off to buy some paint this afternoon, so tomorrow I'll prep everything for paint and lay down some gloss black.
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  16. #75
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    516

    Default

    A nice new brake anchor made up today. Looks better than the old crusty steel one. Made from a slab of 10mm aluminium, cranked 12 mm and shaved down to 7mm on the leading edge.
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