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  1. #106
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    51
    Posts
    2,726

    Default

    It definitely looks better than the Ebay POS. Were you successful in the end with getting a refund? I agree that both Ebay and Paypal are heavily biased in favour of the seller but there is a path to success. Overgrown, hidden and someone took away all the signposts but the path is there.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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    Advertising world
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  3. #107
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Well, finally got around to tapping the front of the sidecover. I hate jobs like this, there's always the fear of stuffing it up and ruining a part, but, all went well: drilled out the oil pump gallery to 10.8mm, tapped it to M12 x 1.25 for 40mm to cover the gallery to the old oil strainer, countersunk the top of the hole to allow for an O ring and inserted the stainless spigot I turned up, looks quite alright.
    Whilst I had the cover off, I removed the kickstart mechanism and turned up a couple of bungs to cover the hole.
    Remote filter and cooler and bracketry are all done, just waiting for the 120degree AN6 fittings to arrive so I can connect the hoses. I'll post pictures as soon as the connections are done.
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  4. #108
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default Annodising.

    I put together an anodising bath the other day and did some experimenting. Bought some acid, diluted it, made a couple of aluminium cathodes and hooke everything up to a 10amp power supply (projecta battery charger). Results were good, although I'll have to do some more experimenting with electro polishing, the anodising process totall kills the shine on aluminium.

    I'll use the annodising for ally parts that can't be polished regularly due to positioning on the bike. I have an ammeter and some titanium wire coming, so I can upgrade my rudimentry annodising bath.

    First piece in the bath was a polished aluminium bracket, as you can see the finish is nice enough, but rather dull. Second piece was polished on one end, the other had a brush finish. Polished aluminium definitely comes out the best. Second pics are before and after shots.
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  5. #109
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    The TX650 came with a silly twin cable hand throttle, one cable for each carb. I bought a single cable throttle and looked around for a two into one junction box. Only one I could find were made of plastic or steel with no means on mounting them, so it just flops around under the tank with the cables.

    Didnít like that idea, so I made one from a small slab of ally. I bored a 14mm hole through the slab and ran a 5/8Ē UNF thread through each end on the lathe to a depth of 11mm. Next I milled a step and drilled two 6mm holes in the step for mounting it to the upper engine mounts.
    The two end caps are also aluminium turned up from some round stock. One has a one cable inlet, the other takes two cables. I ran a 5/8Ē UNF thread on them and then ran my scissor knurler over them. Both caps are fitted with O rings as the body will be filled with grease for lubrication. Only the second time Iíve used this knurler since I made it about five years ago. It works well.

    The slide I made from brass, 14mm round, for a snug, sliding fit inside the main body, and 25mm long. Through this I drilled three 1.5mm holes, then countersunk them with a 3mm bit for the cable nipples. I still have to cut three slots with a slit saw in the slide, so the. Cables can be fitted.

    Not sure of the finish, but since itíll be unseen, under the tank, Iíll probably stick it in my anodising bath.
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  6. #110
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

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    The fittings I ordered to complete the oil filter/cooler job arrived today, so I finally connected everything. Looks ok, but a bit of a jumble of hoses. Turned into a rather big job this. Had to make some new engine mounts with room for the filter housing. Machined up the filter housing and threaded stainless parts for plumbing. Machined up a cover to replace the original filter housing cover. Fabricated a bracket to bolt to the engine mounts for the cooler. Drilled and tapped the the engine side cover. Then polished everything - Big job. These AN fittings are very expensive, $50 for two. I ordered them on Aliexpress first for half that, but the seller cancelled the order for some reason and now I'm having trouble getting a dam refund. Some of the parts I had to machine up

  7. #111
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Turned up a couple of these today, they're cable adjusters for my TX650 build. 8mm stainless rod, turned down to 6.36mm for the threaded end. I cheated a little bit on the thread: Ran a 1/4" UNF button die for about 15mm on the lathe to get the thread straight, then transferred the piece to the vice to finish off the 40mm long thread. Knurled the thumb pieced with my homemade scissor knurler then drilled through with a 3mm bit, followed by a 5.5mm bit for a depth of 12mm to take a cable. Still have to make a bracket to bolt to each carb, but this'll allow very fine adjusting when syncing the carbs. These will thread over the inner cable before the nipple is molded in place.
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  8. #112
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Exhaust pipes. I mocked up a pipe for the right side, welding together some exhaust pipe at the appropriate angles with the right amount of twist then took it to an exhaust centre and asked them to mandrel bend two bends from 42mm pipe to match the angles, so I could weld them together later. The exhaust guy assured me he could bend the entire pipe with the correct twist, then reverse it for the left side, so naturally I jumped at the chance to avoid welding the two bends together. Roll on five weeks, yep that's right, it took him five weeks, and I picked up the pipes and took them home. Well, what a balls up, the only thing that was correct was the twist. So, I cut both pipes around half way between the two bends, removed a 25 mm section and welded the two bends together. Problem! The bottom bend was way out, leaving the exhaust bending down toward the ground. To fix, I made a V cut in the pipe a few inches after the bend, bent the tail section up and welded the two pieces together. Repeating the process for the other side. Now, if you think exhaust pipe is round, it ain't! So twisting the pipes and butting them together leaves a few steps. So, I hammered them a little so they'd match up, welded them together and ground them smooth, then painted them with exhaust black pint.
    I mounted some 10mm thick ally in the four jaw, turned up the 42 mm hole, then marked the position of the 10mm exhaust stud holes drilled them through, shaped the clamps and polished them. For the lower mount, I bent up some 3mm steel plate in a half circle with short returns either side, shaped another 3 mm piece of steel to affix to the frame and welded it to the half circle clamp, then painted it exhaust black paint. Next I bent some 3mm ally plate in a half circle with returns each end, stuck it together with the steel half circle and drilled through four holes for stainless Allen heads, and polished the ally half clamps. The pipes have a very slight upwards sweep.‚Äč‚Äč
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  9. #113
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Pushed the starter button this afternoon and the TX roared into life, very loudly with those pipes. So, the single points cam works beautifully. PMA conversion works well as does the dual output coil, cable splitter, remote filter, cooler and ignition wiring. It's running a little lean at the moment due to the pods and exhaust, so I'll have to rejet before syncing. Very happy chappy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJ-BRcUOwKk

  10. #114
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Synced the carbs and checked the PMA today. Bike runs beautifully now, idles nicely, revs cleanly, no spitting or hesitation. PMA/reg/rect output is 14.6 volts, so happy with that as well. Timing is spot on on both cylinders, so the single points cam also works well and the filter and cooler deliver a good oil supply with no leaks. Fancy that, all the engine mods worked as planned! This is my homemade manometer I use for syncing, super easy to use, gives a good, stable reading.

    Now it's back to cycle parts. I was going to spoke the wheels next, but can't get any stainless spokes for the rear wheel, so I'll have to work on something else: I've been thinking of hunting around for a clagged 650 motor, I'm missing working on motors.

    Here's a video. Still needs syncing but starts and goes well.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJ-BRcUOwKk
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  11. #115
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    I nutted out a simplified schematic for the TX last night and did a little work on it today. Rather than one harness, I decided on two, one for lights and one for ignition and charging. Five wires for the lights run up the left side of the backbone for lights, another three run up a harness on the right for ignition. I've included some earth cabling in the harness rather than just depending on earthing through the frame.

    Once I've routed all the cables to their destinations, I'll zip tie them then wrap the harness removing the zips as I go. Having one harness for ignition and charging circuits and another for lighting simplifies fault faulting and cuts down on the number of colours needed in the harnesses.

    I've ordered some stainless spokes, should be here this week. Can only get front spokes at the moment for some reason, seems to be a shortage on rears. As soon as they arrive I'll repolish the hub and rims and spoke it up.
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  12. #116
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Front spokes arrived from Geoff's this afternoon, so I laced up the wheel. The spokes for the rear wheel are coming from Heiden Tuning, so they probably won't be here for a while. Much better looking than the mags I think.
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  13. #117
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    562

    Default

    Unfortunately, there is more thread on the new spokes than on the stock spokes. After I laced up the shell and trued it I found there was 3mm of thread showing on every single spoke between nipple and hub, it looks ugly and unprofessional, but nothing I can do about it.

    When I advised the seller, he told me it was normal and I didn't know what I was doing and then proceeded to send a number of abusive texts and emails and told he won't deal with me anymore. As if I would!

    You can see in the pictures the new spokes have a longer thread than the stock ones.. The stock ones are the dull grey ones.
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