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  1. #121
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,289

    Default

    Love the 'dye' indicator!

    Alan...

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  3. #122
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default I cheated.

    I cheated, bent one up from 3mm stock. A lot harder to make this way and doesn't look as nice, but a lot less material wastage.
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  4. #123
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default A comparison.

    I had to make a billet adjuster so I could compare, I think I prefer the billet one.
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  5. #124
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default Never give up.

    I finally had a win. Initially I made the adjuster with a 15mm slot to fit over the swingarm axle mounts. That didn't work too well, scratched the hell out of the paintwork. Next I tried putting a step in the slot, 15mm where the axle slips through and 16mm for the rest, but couldn't get a decent finish inside the slot. I know you can't see inside the slot when it's fitted, but, I know the finish isn't up to scratch. So today I milled the slot out to 16mm for the whole length, papered it reasonably smooth, then put it in the vice and stepped it by bending the ends in to around 15.5mm. Seems to work pretty well, so I'll try making another tomorrow the same way. I think I'm going to have to powder coat the frame though, the acrylic lacquer just scratches and chips too easily.
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  6. #125
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,450

    Default

    You have not posted for a while Sacc51, hope all is well.

  7. #126
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default

    Yep, still alive, just slowing down a lot now, the joys of old age.

  8. #127
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default

    Mufflers.
    A few weeks ago I sent off for some tapered mufflers, these were said to suit from 38 - 45mm pipes using the supplied sleeves. Well they came, but aside from being chrome when I ordered black, they were rubbish: The spigot that goes over the exhaust pipe is tapered, so no matter how tight the clamp is done up, they have an alarming amount of movement, so I wrapped them up and on sold them.

    I went to an exhaust shop and bought some 38, 41, 45 and 57mm tube and started making a couple of mufflers. I got the shop to cone the ends of the 45 and 41mm tube out to 57. When I got them home I cut the cones off and welded them to each end of the 57mm tube. The 38mm tube was cut into shorter sections drilled and one end capped off, these are the baffles. Unfortunately none of these tubes fit inside the next size up, .25 mm too big, so using a drum sander I expanded the inside of both ends of the muffles by .25mm so the baffle will slip in the tail, pipe and the receiver end will fit over the 41mm exhausts.

    I painted them black and made up a couple of polished aluminium hangers which cradle the mufflers and attach to the pillion peg mounts.

    Started it up yesterday and it's a hell of a lot quieter, probably not enough for a roadworthy, but a bit of roof insulation will fix that,
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  9. #128
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default Last start up.

    Probably the last startup before tearing it apart again for repainting. Sync was a little out, so I adjusted the idle screws, turning the idle screw a fraction results in a big difference to the manometer. Happily, the mufflers do an excellent job of quieting the beast. last start - YouTube

  10. #129
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    “A lot of work”. I think that this is the understatement of the year. Brilliant work though, just an old senile guy turning out a work of art on wheels. I tip my hat to you mate, well done.

  11. #130
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default

    One of the last jobs I did before pulling the bike apart for the last time, a line block. I bought some new brake hoses, not OEM, and made some changes to the way things are connected. The original system consisted of two hoses and two steel lines, a silly setup! Switching to just two hoses and discarding the steel lines resulted in the lower hose banjos being at the wrong angle requiring twisting the hose to fit. I didn't like that idea, so I did away with the original line block and made a new one. The upper hose connects on the left side, the lower hose and brake light switch are fitted to the back. The through hole is only 3.2mm, standard bits aren't long enough to drill a blind hole the length of the block, so I had to drill from both ends and cap off the right side with an M6 plug. To get the rounded curve on the lower section of the line block, I chamfered both leading edges at 45degrees on the Mill, then very carefully, rounded them off on the linisher. Female threads on the back for the lower hose banjo and the brake light switch are M10, these were threaded on the Mill to make sure they were square to the the block to prevent leaks. Left side thread, also M10, was done on the lathe. Then of course, I had to polish it.
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  12. #131
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default

    Here's video I made when I synced the VMs using my homemade manometer. First the idle was synced, then the throttle. I turned the screws the wrong way a few times, you can see the results on the fluid levels quite clearly. I'm old and get confused easily, that's my excuse. Syncing - YouTube

  13. #132
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default Final paint.

    I undercoated a couple of days ago, applied the final coats of acrylic lacquer to the tinwork and some ancillaries this afternoon, didn't come out as clear or as good as I hoped, but acceptable I guess. I'll give it a few more days then sand the tank and spray over with 2k clear. Not the done thing, technically, but plenty do it, so we'll see how it goes.
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  14. #133
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default More painting.

    Painted the tank, seat, guards, headlight and callipers with 2k clearcoat this morning. Unfortunately, I can't wear glasses under the respiration so I couldn't see too clearly - bloody great run on the tank, damn. Couldn't get any non isocyanate free, so just the usual 2K.

    It's been over 40 years since I used 2k, so I couldn't remember what coverage was like, how much paint I'd need, googled it in various painting forums. 2litres minimum for frame, tank, guards seat, headlight I was advised. Armed with that knowledge, I shyed away from 2k because it would have cost near as damn it to $450/$500.

    Seems our painting professionals haven' a clue., I mixed up 250mm clear, 125mm catalyst and a little thinners. Got three coats down on tank, guards, seat, headlight and callipers and still had 200mm of mixed paint left.

    By the look of it, I won't be spending anytime compounding or polishing the paintwork.

    This pic should give you some idea why painting and, polishing aren't my favourite past times. Scared the crap out of the dog.
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  15. #134
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Tasmaniac
    Posts
    1,450

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sacc51 View Post
    Probably the last startup before tearing it apart again for repainting. Sync was a little out, so I adjusted the idle screws, turning the idle screw a fraction results in a big difference to the manometer. Happily, the mufflers do an excellent job of quieting the beast. last start - YouTube

    Sounds great!

  16. #135
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Oz
    Posts
    594

    Default Fuel distributor.

    As you are probably aware, when fuel runs low in bike tanks, due to the tunnel one carb can run dry, BS carbs overcome that problem by linking the carbs via a short hose between them. I run VM carbs on the TX so there is no fuel link. Previously I had a jumble of hoses and T piece barbs linking the petcocks, but that was just so untidy, so today I made a fuel distributor. Not quite finished yet: I still have to drill the linking gallery through so the petcocks are linked, but, I don't have a 4.5mm drill long enough, so I'll have to drill from both sides and blank one side off with a screw and copper washer, then punch in three brass barbs, clean it up a little, round off the edges and polish it.

    The distributor mounts underneath the front lip of the ally battery carrier I made some time ago.. A tube from each petcock attaches to the two inner barbs via a small filter, fuel line links the two outer barbs to the carbs.

    I was going to make one with integral sintered bronze filters, but the unit would have been LARGE , so I decided to go with the two inline filters.

    The left side works well, plenty of room for the hoses and filter as the carb hose attaches to the side of the distributor, but the right side is a little crowded as the fuel inlet on the carb is on the same side as the left hand carb, I may have to make another just a few mm wider.

    I'm going into hospital today for five days, that'll be followed by about of month sitting on my bum, so it'll have to wait a while before I can finish it off.
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