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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Tell me about books, what am I looking for in them? What should I avoid - what says danger?

    Also is they're a way of knowing if a car has been in a smash?

    My mistake I should have looked up trade plates first.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

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    What is the situation with learners of your age in Victoria?
    How many driving hours do you need before you can sit your licence?
    Please be aware that when you do pass the test, you are still considered a "learner". That is why there are graduated licences.

    Buying a 4WD so you can drive along a dirt road is completely unnecessary. Though Suby Outbacks and Foresters seem to go forever.

    I suggest that any vehicle being sold privately with only a month or so left on the registration is likely to require more than the vehicle is worth in repairs / new brakes / new bulbs / new glass / new tires, etc. If the vehicle is currently unregistered then IME "likely" becomes "almost certainly".

    It is likely that most 10 year old vehicles in Australia have dodgy air bag systems. Check if any vehicle you are interested in is subject to a recall notice, and if so if the recall has been carried out. I believe that recalls are referenced by the vehicle's VIN and not the registration number.


    To help you with your searching.
    Typically an Australian vehicle travels around 15,000 km/year. So a 10 year old vehicle with 200,000+ kms has been driven a lot.
    "books" will help you tell if the vehicle has been regularly serviced, and by whom.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    Also is they're a way of knowing if a car has been in a smash?
    You can check here if it's been written off (and why), stolen, or still has a debt attached to it https://www.ppsr.gov.au/how-quick-motor-vehicle-search
    A statutory write-off can NEVER be re-registered, a repairable write-off must pass a separate certification.

    Make sure you use the .gov site, NOT the .com site unless you want to pay 8 times as much. DAMHIK

    Don't automatically reject repaired write-offs; I bought one that was written off for front corner damage (just the quarter panel and suspension) and it had already been through re-certification. Mechanically it was still fine and I saved myself about $5k (nearly 20%) over one with no history.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Because I am over 40 all I need to go from L to basic P is three months, there is no log books, no minimum hours. I have to sit a hazard perception test and then the driving test. Thats all as far I understand. If you between 18 to 25 then it's a pain and you are in for years on L and years on P because at that age you think you have the biggest wang and you are immortal so you end up dead real easy.

    I am not set on the 4WD thing the Suby Outbacks and Foresters just have a great reputation and dovetail well with my needs. I have no interest in SUV's or other 4WD monsters.

    The more I read the more I am leaning towards a dealer rather then
    private sales.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,567

    Default

    Before Purchase - Car history and PPSR check. Use Vicroads to check registration. https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi...e-registration

    Before taking delivery organise insurance and if you want roadside assistance (RACV membership).

    Vehicle will need current road worthy before it can be transfered and registered in your name. Not sure but unless you have a company you will probably need to have a licence number (not sure if you can use learner's permit) for you to register the vehicle.

    Cars from dealers will cost more, but the dealer will ensure clear title and in most cases road worthy. They will also forward transfer papers and fees to Vicroads.

    If you buy privately the seller should provide a current road worthy certificate and fill in part of the transfer form. It will then be up to you to forward it to Vicroads and pay stamp duty and tranfer fees. Again check the Vicroads website. https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi.../buy-a-vehicle

    Good luck in your car hunting.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    se Melbourne
    Age
    62
    Posts
    2,567

    Default Tips when looking at cars.

    Not sure how much use this will be but here are some suggestions.

    There are literly thousands of cars for sale, how can you narrow it down to a few.

    Decide how far you are prepared to travel. No use wanting to buy a car in Portland if you are unable to get there to look at it. The internet can be your friend.
    Decide on two or three makes and models, then on age, km's traveled and price. Sometimes you might need to be flexible to get what you want.
    If you can drive manual it can make it harder (auto and manual = more choice) or easier (just look at manual) to choose. If looking second hand do not be fussy about color (unless you are like me and ruled out black).

    If something strikes you as being of interest do a print off, or write down the details for reference. When you look at the vehicle you can make notes like only one key, no service history but owners manual supplied. Left side door looks a different shade of color. Spare wheel is bald. Has roof bars. Radio does not seem to work. Rear blind is messing. etc.

    Then you can compare to other similar vehicles. After looking at a few your head should start to spin, but if you have a friend (or friendly mechanic) they should be able to help you. Dealers will often put on a spin and will be happy to help you with finance. This is how they make money. Organize your finance before you shop.

    Good luck and good hunting.
    Keep practicing and I am sure you will get your licence.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    UPDATED:

    LIST - BEFORE PURCHASING


    • 4 cylinders Manual
    • Buy a common make (better for spare parts)
    • Write down the details for reference (to compare options)
    • Car with less then 15,000 km/year on the clock
    • Motor Vehicle Search (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/how-quick-motor-vehicle-search)
    • Car history and PPSR check. (https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi...e-registration)
    • Books (If the vehicle has been regularly serviced and by whom)
    • Check vehicle for recall notice (Referenced by the vehicle's VIN) (air bag system)
    • Mechanical Inspection by mechanic
    • DO NOT drive a vehicle without current registration unless on trade plates
    • Third party, fire & theft insurance (RACV membership)


    LIST - AFTER PURCHASING


    • Car Cost
    • Road Worthy (Best if car comes with)
    • Registration transfer
    • Car history report and PPSR check
    • Stamp Duty


    NOTES

    Cars from dealers will cost more, but the dealer will ensure clear title and in most cases road worthy. They will also forward transfer papers and fees to Vicroads.If you buy privately the seller should provide a current road worthy certificate and fill in part of the transfer form. It will then be up to you to forward it to Vicroads and pay stamp duty and tranfer fees. Again check the Vicroads website. https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi.../buy-a-vehicle

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Another thing to take into account is the type of mileage the car has had. 100 000km long distance driving is likely to have less wear than a 50 000km short distance commuter.

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    3,567

    Default

    Cheers

    Quote Originally Posted by Canisbellum View Post
    Another thing to take into account is the type of mileage the car has had. 100 000km long distance driving is likely to have less wear than a 50 000km short distance commuter.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6,973

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thumbsucker View Post
    UPDATED:

    LIST - BEFORE PURCHASING


    • 4 cylinders Manual
    • Buy a common make (better for spare parts)
    • Write down the details for reference (to compare options)
    • Car with less then 15,000 km/year on the clock
    • Motor Vehicle Search (https://www.ppsr.gov.au/how-quick-motor-vehicle-search)
    • Car history and PPSR check. (https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/regi...e-registration)
    • Books (If the vehicle has been regularly serviced and by whom)
    • Check vehicle for recall notice (Referenced by the vehicle's VIN) (air bag system)
    • Mechanical Inspection by mechanic
    • DO NOT drive a vehicle without current registration unless on trade plates
    • Third party, fire & theft insurance (RACV membership)


    LIST - AFTER PURCHASING


    • Car Cost
    • Road Worthy (Best if car comes with)
    • Registration transfer
    • Car history report and PPSR check
    • Stamp Duty


    NOTES

    Also one thing to consider is dodgy body work repairs.
    A good mechanic will know what to look for there too.
    In a previous life I use to pre inspect vehicles on body work.
    And would generally bounce back 1/10 cars on bodywork(bad bodywork repairs)

    Cheers Matt,

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    WA
    Posts
    54

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Also one thing to consider is dodgy body work repairs.
    A good mechanic will know what to look for there too.
    In a previous life I use to pre inspect vehicles on body work.
    And would generally bounce back 1/10 cars on bodywork(bad bodywork repairs)

    Cheers Matt,
    For body work take a weak magnet and stick it to the panels. If it doesn't stick or fall off there is a lot of body filler in that area. Look at the breather hose at each end if it's oily then the piston rings could be on their way out.
    Look for coolant stains over the radiator and motor they could denote coolant leaks or even a blown head gasket.
    Look for oil drips at the pulleys and the bell housing join to the block.
    If it's a manual pull off real slow and watch for juddering as the clutch bites could be a rear main or buggered engine mountings.
    Listen for whining noises that stop as take your foot off the clutch or when you push clutch in all the way.
    Auto feel for juddering on pull off and slurred or late gear changes especially on light throttle.
    Listen for rumbling noises from the front wheels if you change direction from left to right. Could be wheel bearings.
    If it's fwd or AWD turn full lock and accelerate hard listen for clicking noises, will be CV joints.
    Check for torn or brand new CV boots.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge SA
    Posts
    3,339

    Default

    If you purchase from a dealer and they pay for Registration, carry the paper work with you to confirm so. Have heard of some dealers taking the money but not forwarding onto the registration people, whether this is true or not, I don't know, but it pays to be careful.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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