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Thread: flat battery problem
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19th June 2007, 12:16 AM #16
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19th June 2007 12:16 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th June 2007, 12:37 AM #17
When the batteries gets a few years on them they tend to suffer badly from high internal resistance when cold, hence bugr all cranking current. Sometimes some warm water run over them does the trick but best to replace them at that stage anyway. My 2 cents worth.
Lots of good circuits available for dual system isolation and charging etc. The electronics shops have books especially for caravan installations etc that are a good read.
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19th June 2007, 12:48 PM #18
From what I know of battery isolators, most of your add-on accessories should run off the second battery leaving your original vehicle's battery to start the car. (It all depends on how the set-up was installed and what, if any, isolators were used.) That way when your engine is not running, you're only draining the second battery (winching, flood lights, radios, etc.)
You said the second battery was new, but usually this is not the one used to start the vehicle. Which is why when you replaced your primary battery, it should now be OK. You never said how old your primary battery was... these days with tighter, more cramped engine bays, engines running hotter, esp. turbos on diesels, some batteries are lucky to last much more than the warranty period of 2 years, if you get 4-5 you're lucky.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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19th June 2007, 03:58 PM #19
If you want a batery that lasts get yourself a Caterpillar battery. I've got one that's got over six years on it and it's still going strong. The plates are sturdier to stop them shaking to bits and there's more space below the plates so they're less likely to short out from crud etc if they do start to shake apart.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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19th June 2007, 09:29 PM #20SENIOR MEMBER
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thanks for the info
Skew ChiDAMN!!
So if you do find a current draw, make sure it's not something as simple as that before consulting the auto-lec
Yes – I have a blinking LED when the ignition lock is on
Bennylaird
Lots of good circuits available for dual system isolation and charging etc. The electronics shops have books especially for caravan installations etc that are a good read
The only other component running off the two batteries other than dedicated car electrics is the 12v double fluro in the back cab,,, other than that we rarely go anywhere without our generators: also have two of those 12v jump starters – one of them has an inverter and will run 240v lights and the wireless without even flickering and can be charged from the ciggie lighter.
Yonnee and Journeyman Mick
You never said how old your primary battery was... these days with tighter, more cramped engine bays, engines running hotter, esp. turbos on diesels, some batteries are lucky to last much more than the warranty period of 2 years, if you get 4-5 you're lucky.
I always knew I was lucky with the old primary battery… it was already in the vehicle when I bought it 2nd hand in 2002… so I got 5 years from it… and there’s a bit more room under the bonnet of my 97 hilux than there is under her Nissan Patrol bonnet
JedoWhen all the world said I couldn't do it - they were right...
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8th July 2007, 12:16 AM #21
If you've had the vehicle since 2002, it now 2007.
It is reasonable to expect that the battery is due for replacement, nothing more nothing less.
lead acid batteries all have some degree of self discharge, as they get older this gets progressivly worse, along with general battery performance.
the theoretical life span of any lead acid battery is two years, in practise it is fair to expect 5 years as a good run.
The best I have had out of a battery is 7 years.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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8th July 2007, 03:18 PM #22
Had similar problems with my old landcruiser sadly gone n missed
Your giving me the idea you are parking it outside with no cover what so ever and with that cold, batteries don't like it reduces the charge.
I went for a better quality of battery plate wise sort of more bang for your buck a normal car battery for diesel hast got the kick especially after using the pre-heat start which some Toyota diesels have (helps warm the pots cold air first) so this takes power out of he battery prior the first boot.
The other thing is try a bucket of hot water over the battery it has worked for me in the past with the LC and the buses & coaches down the snow
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8th July 2007, 09:20 PM #23SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi wheeling...
Bit back now... but I did buy a new battery and the problem is solved
Here's the details... and thanks...
""So I bought a champion NZ70ZZ - 660 amps cranking power - this morning and hooked it up,, then a good long run...
secondary battery is still connected... newish, 2yrs - 360 cranking
I've been running two batteries on the vehicle since 2002 when I bought it over in WA and only had any trouble with it this winter...""
When all the world said I couldn't do it - they were right...
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9th July 2007, 09:27 AM #24
Winter the optimal word coldest one we have had for many years batteries are water after all.
If we leave the Camry out overnight here in suburban westen Sydney the starter motor freezes up.
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