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  1. #1
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    Default Hiace diesel not shutting off

    The engine on my 2008 Hiace diesel recently started intermittently not stopping when I turn the ignition off.

    I then turned the ignition on/off a few times and it eventually stoped but last time it would not stop and I had to stall it to stop it - ie not good.

    I suspect the fuel solenoid is not being activated but I'm wondering if it is the ignition switch itself. I say this because the oil pressure light and the door open lights also stay faintly on when the ignition switch is off. Bothe these lights go out when engine is running and doors are closed so it's not the switches.

    I've checked the current draw from the battery with the ignition off and its about 250mA which eventually flattens the battery over a few days.

    Has anyone else experience this problem. I would take into an auto electrician but everyone I spoke to on the phone (except Toyota Service) is booked out for two weeks.

    Thanks

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  3. #2
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    Jan 2014
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    Default

    Can you give me the engine code. I can access wiring diagrams

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappa View Post
    Can you give me the engine code. I can access wiring diagrams
    1KD1777806

    Thanks very much.

  5. #4
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    Default

    Could the dim oil pressure & door lights be due to a poor battery to chassis or body connection?

    Try pulling the wire off the fuel cutoff solenoid with the engine running to see if engine stops.

  6. #5
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    My data shows this system as computer controlled (common rail). The injectors are switched by an injector control module which in turn is controlled by an engine management computer. There appears to be no fuel cut solenoid as such.
    if that’s the system Bob, send me a PM snd I’ll send you a link.
    Last edited by Lappa; 24th June 2021 at 09:53 AM. Reason: Additional info - name system

  7. #6
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    Well, this morning the problem has disappeared!!!

    It's normally a very reliable vehicle but this has shaken my faith in it as now I never know when it might reappear again.

  8. #7
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    Default

    I’d also be checking earths as if one earth is bad, circuits can try and find a path through other earths. Both the dash circuitry and ECU have direct connection to battery Positive (line 30) so even with ignition OFF they are live.

    on the diagram below, earth points EP3, EP5, EP6 are concerned with the dash and ECU.

    EP3 is in the engine bay RHR
    EP5 is in the engine bay LH chassis leg ( common to dash and ECU)
    EP6 is engine bay RH side

    EDBD57EC-B9AF-4C17-B014-C4C599D546A1.jpg

  9. #8
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    Default

    I checked all the main earths I could get at and they look OK.
    This morning, with the ignition off and all doors closed, the "door open light' is now back faintly on, but the oil pressure light is not faintly on.
    Also the engine doesn't "continue to run on" .
    Checked all the door open switches again - all are OK.

  10. #9
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    Default

    This problem has reappeared and disappeared several times during the last two weeks.

    Today I finally got to an auto electrician and he found water in some of the wiring harness plugs under the dash. Seems like the windscreen seal is leaking maybe due to corrosion. The way I park the car hasnt helped ie facing downhill so all water falling on the flat roof runs down over the windscreen. For the moment I have it parked the other way and a tarp over the front of the vehicle.

    The auto electrician suggests getting the windscreen resealed but if there's corrosion around the windscreen I wonder if its worth doing?
    Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    This problem has reappeared and disappeared several times during the last two weeks.

    Today I finally got to an auto electrician and he found water in some of the wiring harness plugs under the dash. Seems like the windscreen seal is leaking maybe due to corrosion. The way I park the car hasnt helped ie facing downhill so all water falling on the flat roof runs down over the windscreen. For the moment I have it parked the other way and a tarp over the front of the vehicle.

    The auto electrician suggests getting the windscreen resealed but if there's corrosion around the windscreen I wonder if its worth doing?
    Anyone have any experience with this sort of thing.
    Short answer to your question Bob, it’s a big job potential.

    To repair rust if there is any in the windscreen area potential means screen out, and dash board out.
    Some modern dashboards are full day to pull out a full day to put back in, if you know what your doing.

    Once there out of the way, one or two small area’s in the channel is not so hard to repair, I’ve done plenty a in a former life(Panel Beater).
    You then of course need to have the area repainted as well.

    Saying all that if the screen Chanel is only gone in one or two tiny spots.
    Have the screen taken out, and have them re seal it but ask them to go heavy on the silastic.

    Hope that helps.

    Cheers Matt.

  12. #11
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    Bob,
    Forgot to add some vehicles have a drain hole in the lowest spots of the windscreen channel, most likely the far corners, these holes most likely will have a small tube(Drinking straw size) brazed to them that exits around the bottom of the guard or A pillar bottom of the fire wall area.
    These get filled with crap over time.
    There generally very hidden under the scuttle panel, but they can fill up with crap, and rust out.

    Cheers Matt.

  13. #12
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    Got the van to the Windscreen repairs this morning and they managed to get the windscreen off without breaking it.

    Patchy corrosion under windscreen seal down most of drivers side of windscreen pillar, plus smaller sections down passengers side and 3 small spots across the top.
    No holes thru any metal, which was a good thing.

    I then drove the van (in between showers) without the windscreen and rear vision mirror, from the windscreen people, to a mates factory unit about 200m away in the same suburb where I was able to work on it under cover.

    There I used a wire wheel on an angle grinder to take off the loose rust and then passivated the remainder with a rust converter and applied a primer.
    Tomorrow I will take it back to the windscreen people to have it resealed.

    Then I will have to rubdown and repaint around the windscreen - there are a other few spots that need it there anyway.

    Drain holes in channels below windscreen all look clear.

  14. #13
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    Bob,
    Excellent news with the windscreen extra,
    With regards the Rust converter no comment [emoji6].

    Cheers Matt.

  15. #14
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    All fixed and parked uphill in my drive with a tarp over the front.
    Excellent service from the windscreen guys and can really recommend Instant windscreens in Myaree.
    The windscreen is the cleanest its ever been !

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