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Thread: TFR9 Rodeo Timing belt
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11th June 2010, 10:40 PM #1
TFR9 Rodeo Timing belt
Over the past few days I've changed the timing belt in my LX rodeo (6VD1 DOHC motor) and I think I write up will be helpful for others wanting to try
1. Order timing belt
2. Baulk at price
3. Pay and walk out mumbling
4. Lift bonnet and stare into the mess off wires, hoses, pulleys and belts
5. Decide a drink is in order
6. Hem and haw whilst drinking and staring at engine
7. Decide to get serious
8. Break out Bahco toolkit
9. Put all the sockets back in their place after you grabbed the handle with the latches open
10. Unbolt fan
11. Drop spanner
12. Drop fan nuts
13. Wrench fan out, denting radiator in the process
14. Figure out which pulley does what
15. Remove radiator hoses to gain better access
16. Clean up spilt coolant
17. Remove tensioning pulley, later realising this step is unnecessary
18. Remove serpentine belt
19. Remove idler pulley, fan pulley, crankshaft pulley and all the timing belt cover bolts you can reach
20. Wonder how you can remove the belt tensioner and P/S pulley to get to more timing belt cover bolts
21. Attempt to jam various things between A/C pulley and P/S pulleys whilst turning P/S pulley retaining nut
22. Remove radiator so rattle gun can reach P/S pulley nut
23. Clean up more spilt coolant
24. Be proud you saved a whole 2 litres of coolant out of the 10.3L in the whole system
25. Jam rag between P/S and A/C pulleys and remove nut
26. Consult google on how to remove tensioner
27. Realise it's incredibly easy and that you're a mug
28. Remove tensioner
29. Remove timing cover bolts and plastic cover
30. Stare at timing belt and associated pulley and start to have second thoughts
31. Carefully mark belt position on old belt
32. Remove belt tensioner
33. Watch in horror as the camshafts and crankshaft rotate under the pressure of springs and compression
34. Scream
35. Line old belt up against new one, note that the marks don't match, then promptly forget (Note: )
36. Rotate pulleys so marks match the indents on valve cover
37. Rotate the right bank pulley again
38. Repeat
39. Repeat
40. Shout obscenities at the valve springs that keep rotating the right camshaft back
41. Wonder which way the motor spins
42. Consult bosses rodeo
43. Forget that the fan is driven by the back of the belt and therefore spins in the opposite direction to the crankshaft
44. Put timing belt on backwards
45. Incorrectly line up marks on belt with pulley marks
46. Attempt to fit tensioner untensioned
47. Compress tensioner in vice, use 2mm HSS Sutton Viper twist drill as a retaining pin
48. Replace tensioner and remove pin
49. Marvel at handiwork
50. Reassemble engine
51. Wonder why you have 1 bolt and 3 rubber washers left over
52. Start engine
53. Cheer as it fires instantly
54. Cringe as it screeches and rattles then dies
55. Continue to turn it over unsuccessfully
56. Hit head against steering wheel
And so ends part 1 of the saga.
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11th June 2010 10:40 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th June 2010, 11:00 PM #2
The pleasures of a simple diesel motor, not that we have one mind you but working on them is soooooooooo much easier. More so if big motors
FC I feel for you deeply, should have spent the extra $$ and got a service manual. Taken it to a Mechanic.
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12th June 2010, 12:46 AM #3
The better motors get, the more complicated they become. My old Triton motor is fantastic to work on because it only has a dozen or so parts.
Part 2
57. Remove fan (again)
58. Remove radiator (again)
59. Remove pulleys (again)
60. Remove timing belt covers (again)
61. Remove tensioner and belt (again)
62. Ponder circumstance
63. Realise engine spins the other way
64.
65. Turn right camshaft till it pops into line
66. Rotate crankshaft until mark reaches 9 o'clock
67. Replace timing belt
68. Make sure marks are correctly aligned
69. Replace tensioner, pull pin
70. Replace air intake
71. Start engine
72. Cheer as it starts
73. Cringe when it starts to idle at 600rpm instead of 1000rpm
74. Depress accelerator
75. Note thumping noise and slow acceleration
76. Release accelerator
77. Note engine idling at 300rpm then rising above 1000rpm then dropping to 600rpm
78. Bang head against steering wheel
79. Check timing marks
80. Turn the crankshaft until the marks line up using the starter motor and a ratchet
81. Almost break arm by accidently starting engine with the ratchet
82. Remove spark plugs
83. Keep turning the engine over
84. Repeat
85. Finally get the marks where you want them
86. Check the positioning, yep all good
87. Consult boss
88. Ignore raucous laughter and ask his advice
89. Reassemble engine as per his advice
90. Note the engine still running like an asthmatic tortoise
91. Remember to refill the radiator
92. Decide to try your luck and drive it up the road
93. Struggle with the seat belt
94. Repeat
95. Tell self seat belts are for wimps
96. Note lack of acceleration and power
97. Park vehicle
98. Note smoke coming from below cab
99. Note glowing red exhaust
100. Panic
101. Remember step 35
102. Hit head against steering wheel
103. Commence step by step write up
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13th June 2010, 10:25 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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surely step one was
HOW HARD CAN IT BE
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13th June 2010, 01:31 PM #5
LOL - yup, there's your problem......
If you'd enlisted the help of a Mr J. Clarkson beforehand, things would have been much.......well, worse actually.
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13th June 2010, 02:01 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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For the second time in about 20 years, I got under the bonnet the other day, to replace the rocker cover gasket, in order to pass rego. The first time was to put a bit of electricians' tape on a spark plug lead, after nearly chewing my arm off at the prices of fuel injector cleaning and replacement (probable solution 1 to lumpy running), and the prices of spark plug leads (possible solution 2, and the actual fix). $100 for spark plug leads!?! Tell 'em they're dreaming!!
Until..... a guy on the train platform told how he had a lumpy-running Proton, and the fix was $800 for the spark plug lead assembly. Yup - nearly one thousand dollars to fix a tiny pinhole in one lead. Proton mold a specially shaped lump over the end of the leads, making them into one assembly for all the leads, and price accordingly.
I think I'll be looking under the bonnet before I consider buying any new car, and checking the price and accessibility of a few simple repair bits.
Good luck, and looking forward to the next episode in the saga.
(My money is on 227: find possum hiding in hot-film air mass sensor, or 312: so THAT's where the missing cant hook went)
Cheers,
Andrew
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13th June 2010, 02:55 PM #7
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13th June 2010, 04:48 PM #8
The idea of the INTERNAL combustion engine is to keep all the bangs and fire INSIDE the engine.......
If you ever see a car with all the paint burned off the bonnet, safe bet it was fitted with the earlier (and less popular) external combustion engine......
Remember, a Rodeo has 6 cylinders to give power and smoothness, and to guzzle fuel..........not just for redundancy !
Left home on 6, got back on 3.......
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13th June 2010, 07:30 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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While it may have cost a bit to get a professional to do it, it is much less than the price of toasting your motor.
On the last car I had done, timing belt replacement cost under $400 including the belt kit, and on my car it will be done in 2 years time as part of a $800, 8 years major service. Sometimes it is worth spending the money...Semtex fixes all
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13th June 2010, 08:30 PM #10
Interestingly, our 2000 model Rodeo (3.2L V6) just had its 100,000km service (yeah, I know, it doesn't get much use.....)
Service guy was sure that this service should include timing belt replacement, but when he looked in the service manuals its actually only the 4 cyl Rodeo that requires this.
I agree though - getting it wrong with a timing belt has the potential to thoroughly trash your motor......I'd rather leave it to someone who has done it before.
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14th June 2010, 11:10 PM #11
I think the problem is the belt markings, I'll have another go tomorrow and report back
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15th June 2010, 05:26 PM #12
I can simpathise, I did our 2.5lt quad cam Subaru Liberty, and at TDC, at least 2 of the cams were overcentreing on the valve springs.
Just traded the Lib on a 2002 Rodeo ourselves, so the fun begins for me, learning the idiosyncracys of a 'new' car.
I'm intrigued by #35... that the marks didn't line up. There should of been three marks on the belt. Did you line the belt up like mark to like mark? Possibly should have been a dotted line to signify the crank pulley. These belts are also directional... it wasn't 180* out was it? But the critical part is lining the three marks on the pulleys to their marks on the engine/covers. If that was correct, then the marks on the belt don't matter.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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16th June 2010, 11:12 PM #13
104. Ponder Circumstances
105. Attempt to syphon coolant
106. Cop a mouthful of coolant
107. Spit
108. Cough
109. Hack
110. Remember how poisonous Ethylene Glycol is
111. Cough
112. Wash mouth out
113. Repeat
114. Cough
115. Ponder what that coolant taste reminds you of
116. Decide that coolant definitely tastes like vomit
117. Cough
118. Reattempt to syphon coolant
119. Succeed
120. Remove radiator
121. Remove drive belt
122. Remove every other flippin thing
123. Rotate crankshaft one link anti clockwise
124. Replace tensioner
125. Start engine
126. Note correct idle speed, better acceleration
127. Decide you can go one more
128. Remove tensioner
129. Rotate crankshaft anti clockwise one more link
130. Replace tensioner
131. Start engine
132. Note correct idle speed, better acceleration, smooth running
133. Rejoice!
134. Reassemble engine
135. Top up radiator
136. Take Rodeo for a test drive
137. Spin tires in third gear (just testing it out)
138. Park vehicle
139. Check for glowing exhaust and other incendiary thingos
140. Note absence of fire on vehicle
141. Done
The marks on the new belt were wrong, the crankshaft line was two links out.
I'm very relieved that it's all working properly now, I saved myself a few hundred dollars and learned alot too
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18th June 2010, 04:24 PM #14SENIOR MEMBER
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Just wondering but if the timing belt is out by too much cant you damage the valves?
Good job taking the plunge, im too scared I'll damage the ute beyond repair 99' LX
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18th June 2010, 06:59 PM #15
The 6vd1 engine is non interference, there is no way the valves can hit the pistons. You've got very little to lose except your time. If you need any help just ask
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