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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld
    Age
    31
    Posts
    2,520

    Default TFR9 Rodeo Timing belt

    Over the past few days I've changed the timing belt in my LX rodeo (6VD1 DOHC motor) and I think I write up will be helpful for others wanting to try

    1. Order timing belt
    2. Baulk at price
    3. Pay and walk out mumbling
    4. Lift bonnet and stare into the mess off wires, hoses, pulleys and belts
    5. Decide a drink is in order
    6. Hem and haw whilst drinking and staring at engine
    7. Decide to get serious
    8. Break out Bahco toolkit
    9. Put all the sockets back in their place after you grabbed the handle with the latches open
    10. Unbolt fan
    11. Drop spanner
    12. Drop fan nuts
    13. Wrench fan out, denting radiator in the process
    14. Figure out which pulley does what
    15. Remove radiator hoses to gain better access
    16. Clean up spilt coolant
    17. Remove tensioning pulley, later realising this step is unnecessary
    18. Remove serpentine belt
    19. Remove idler pulley, fan pulley, crankshaft pulley and all the timing belt cover bolts you can reach
    20. Wonder how you can remove the belt tensioner and P/S pulley to get to more timing belt cover bolts
    21. Attempt to jam various things between A/C pulley and P/S pulleys whilst turning P/S pulley retaining nut
    22. Remove radiator so rattle gun can reach P/S pulley nut
    23. Clean up more spilt coolant
    24. Be proud you saved a whole 2 litres of coolant out of the 10.3L in the whole system
    25. Jam rag between P/S and A/C pulleys and remove nut
    26. Consult google on how to remove tensioner
    27. Realise it's incredibly easy and that you're a mug
    28. Remove tensioner
    29. Remove timing cover bolts and plastic cover
    30. Stare at timing belt and associated pulley and start to have second thoughts
    31. Carefully mark belt position on old belt
    32. Remove belt tensioner
    33. Watch in horror as the camshafts and crankshaft rotate under the pressure of springs and compression
    34. Scream
    35. Line old belt up against new one, note that the marks don't match, then promptly forget (Note: )
    36. Rotate pulleys so marks match the indents on valve cover
    37. Rotate the right bank pulley again
    38. Repeat
    39. Repeat
    40. Shout obscenities at the valve springs that keep rotating the right camshaft back
    41. Wonder which way the motor spins
    42. Consult bosses rodeo
    43. Forget that the fan is driven by the back of the belt and therefore spins in the opposite direction to the crankshaft
    44. Put timing belt on backwards
    45. Incorrectly line up marks on belt with pulley marks
    46. Attempt to fit tensioner untensioned
    47. Compress tensioner in vice, use 2mm HSS Sutton Viper twist drill as a retaining pin
    48. Replace tensioner and remove pin
    49. Marvel at handiwork
    50. Reassemble engine
    51. Wonder why you have 1 bolt and 3 rubber washers left over
    52. Start engine
    53. Cheer as it fires instantly
    54. Cringe as it screeches and rattles then dies
    55. Continue to turn it over unsuccessfully
    56. Hit head against steering wheel

    And so ends part 1 of the saga.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
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    Default

    The pleasures of a simple diesel motor, not that we have one mind you but working on them is soooooooooo much easier. More so if big motors

    FC I feel for you deeply, should have spent the extra $$ and got a service manual. Taken it to a Mechanic.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba, Qld
    Age
    31
    Posts
    2,520

    Default

    The better motors get, the more complicated they become. My old Triton motor is fantastic to work on because it only has a dozen or so parts.

    Part 2

    57. Remove fan (again)
    58. Remove radiator (again)
    59. Remove pulleys (again)
    60. Remove timing belt covers (again)
    61. Remove tensioner and belt (again)
    62. Ponder circumstance
    63. Realise engine spins the other way
    64.
    65. Turn right camshaft till it pops into line
    66. Rotate crankshaft until mark reaches 9 o'clock
    67. Replace timing belt
    68. Make sure marks are correctly aligned
    69. Replace tensioner, pull pin
    70. Replace air intake
    71. Start engine
    72. Cheer as it starts
    73. Cringe when it starts to idle at 600rpm instead of 1000rpm
    74. Depress accelerator
    75. Note thumping noise and slow acceleration
    76. Release accelerator
    77. Note engine idling at 300rpm then rising above 1000rpm then dropping to 600rpm
    78. Bang head against steering wheel
    79. Check timing marks
    80. Turn the crankshaft until the marks line up using the starter motor and a ratchet
    81. Almost break arm by accidently starting engine with the ratchet
    82. Remove spark plugs
    83. Keep turning the engine over
    84. Repeat
    85. Finally get the marks where you want them
    86. Check the positioning, yep all good
    87. Consult boss
    88. Ignore raucous laughter and ask his advice
    89. Reassemble engine as per his advice
    90. Note the engine still running like an asthmatic tortoise
    91. Remember to refill the radiator
    92. Decide to try your luck and drive it up the road
    93. Struggle with the seat belt
    94. Repeat
    95. Tell self seat belts are for wimps
    96. Note lack of acceleration and power
    97. Park vehicle
    98. Note smoke coming from below cab
    99. Note glowing red exhaust
    100. Panic
    101. Remember step 35
    102. Hit head against steering wheel
    103. Commence step by step write up

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    vic clayton
    Posts
    1,042

    Default

    surely step one was
    HOW HARD CAN IT BE

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    LOL - yup, there's your problem......

    If you'd enlisted the help of a Mr J. Clarkson beforehand, things would have been much.......well, worse actually.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    1,610

    Default

    For the second time in about 20 years, I got under the bonnet the other day, to replace the rocker cover gasket, in order to pass rego. The first time was to put a bit of electricians' tape on a spark plug lead, after nearly chewing my arm off at the prices of fuel injector cleaning and replacement (probable solution 1 to lumpy running), and the prices of spark plug leads (possible solution 2, and the actual fix). $100 for spark plug leads!?! Tell 'em they're dreaming!!

    Until..... a guy on the train platform told how he had a lumpy-running Proton, and the fix was $800 for the spark plug lead assembly. Yup - nearly one thousand dollars to fix a tiny pinhole in one lead. Proton mold a specially shaped lump over the end of the leads, making them into one assembly for all the leads, and price accordingly.

    I think I'll be looking under the bonnet before I consider buying any new car, and checking the price and accessibility of a few simple repair bits.

    Good luck, and looking forward to the next episode in the saga.
    (My money is on 227: find possum hiding in hot-film air mass sensor, or 312: so THAT's where the missing cant hook went)

    Cheers,
    Andrew

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Caversham WA
    Posts
    193

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by arose62 View Post
    For the second time in about 20 years, I got under the bonnet the other day, to replace the rocker cover gasket, in order to pass rego. The first time was to put a bit of electricians' tape on a spark plug lead, after nearly chewing my arm off at the prices of fuel injector cleaning and replacement (probable solution 1 to lumpy running), and the prices of spark plug leads (possible solution 2, and the actual fix). $100 for spark plug leads!?! Tell 'em they're dreaming!!

    Until..... a guy on the train platform told how he had a lumpy-running Proton, and the fix was $800 for the spark plug lead assembly. Yup - nearly one thousand dollars to fix a tiny pinhole in one lead. Proton mold a specially shaped lump over the end of the leads, making them into one assembly for all the leads, and price accordingly.

    I think I'll be looking under the bonnet before I consider buying any new car, and checking the price and accessibility of a few simple repair bits.

    Good luck, and looking forward to the next episode in the saga.
    (My money is on 227: find possum hiding in hot-film air mass sensor, or 312: so THAT's where the missing cant hook went)

    Cheers,
    Andrew
    Silicon works well to keep the electrons on the inside of the leads.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    The idea of the INTERNAL combustion engine is to keep all the bangs and fire INSIDE the engine.......

    If you ever see a car with all the paint burned off the bonnet, safe bet it was fitted with the earlier (and less popular) external combustion engine......

    Remember, a Rodeo has 6 cylinders to give power and smoothness, and to guzzle fuel..........not just for redundancy !

    Left home on 6, got back on 3.......

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Osaka
    Posts
    909

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    While it may have cost a bit to get a professional to do it, it is much less than the price of toasting your motor.

    On the last car I had done, timing belt replacement cost under $400 including the belt kit, and on my car it will be done in 2 years time as part of a $800, 8 years major service. Sometimes it is worth spending the money...
    Semtex fixes all

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
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    Default

    Interestingly, our 2000 model Rodeo (3.2L V6) just had its 100,000km service (yeah, I know, it doesn't get much use.....)

    Service guy was sure that this service should include timing belt replacement, but when he looked in the service manuals its actually only the 4 cyl Rodeo that requires this.

    I agree though - getting it wrong with a timing belt has the potential to thoroughly trash your motor......I'd rather leave it to someone who has done it before.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Toowoomba, Qld
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    I think the problem is the belt markings, I'll have another go tomorrow and report back

  13. #12
    Yonnee's Avatar
    Yonnee is offline Trailer Bloke & Mild Mannered Moderator
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    May 2007
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    Tooradin, Vic.
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    1,885

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    I can simpathise, I did our 2.5lt quad cam Subaru Liberty, and at TDC, at least 2 of the cams were overcentreing on the valve springs.

    Just traded the Lib on a 2002 Rodeo ourselves, so the fun begins for me, learning the idiosyncracys of a 'new' car.

    I'm intrigued by #35... that the marks didn't line up. There should of been three marks on the belt. Did you line the belt up like mark to like mark? Possibly should have been a dotted line to signify the crank pulley. These belts are also directional... it wasn't 180* out was it? But the critical part is lining the three marks on the pulleys to their marks on the engine/covers. If that was correct, then the marks on the belt don't matter.
    Too many projects, so little time, even less money!
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  14. #13
    Join Date
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    104. Ponder Circumstances
    105. Attempt to syphon coolant
    106. Cop a mouthful of coolant
    107. Spit
    108. Cough
    109. Hack
    110. Remember how poisonous Ethylene Glycol is
    111. Cough
    112. Wash mouth out
    113. Repeat
    114. Cough
    115. Ponder what that coolant taste reminds you of
    116. Decide that coolant definitely tastes like vomit
    117. Cough
    118. Reattempt to syphon coolant
    119. Succeed
    120. Remove radiator
    121. Remove drive belt
    122. Remove every other flippin thing
    123. Rotate crankshaft one link anti clockwise
    124. Replace tensioner
    125. Start engine
    126. Note correct idle speed, better acceleration
    127. Decide you can go one more
    128. Remove tensioner
    129. Rotate crankshaft anti clockwise one more link
    130. Replace tensioner
    131. Start engine
    132. Note correct idle speed, better acceleration, smooth running
    133. Rejoice!
    134. Reassemble engine
    135. Top up radiator
    136. Take Rodeo for a test drive
    137. Spin tires in third gear (just testing it out)
    138. Park vehicle
    139. Check for glowing exhaust and other incendiary thingos
    140. Note absence of fire on vehicle
    141. Done

    The marks on the new belt were wrong, the crankshaft line was two links out.
    I'm very relieved that it's all working properly now, I saved myself a few hundred dollars and learned alot too

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Australia
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    Just wondering but if the timing belt is out by too much cant you damage the valves?

    Good job taking the plunge, im too scared I'll damage the ute beyond repair 99' LX

  16. #15
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    The 6vd1 engine is non interference, there is no way the valves can hit the pistons. You've got very little to lose except your time. If you need any help just ask

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