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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
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    228

    Default Campervan do out

    I was going though the categories to try to find a post suitable to my question, which is:

    I have volunteered to do up mates Campervan. It is a 1988 Toyota Ex bus, and is completely empty now.
    ( it appears) He had used MDF and previous owner even doubled it up in places that he thought it would be needed for strength, something like the Sydney Harbour Bridge, only heavier..

    I pulled all that out, and am starting from scratch. Not only do I have to build, I have to design and plan the exercise, and as you can imagine, I would like a bit of help from the brilliance of the minds that haunt this forum.

    The bus seats are gone but there are two Air con. units in the floor, in the middle of the back of the unit that must be removed. If I get a response I will tell you about getting information on this little job.

    Are you out there, and prepared to be around for some time???? Please.

    BB will be most grateful.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Of The Boarder
    Age
    68
    Posts
    16,794

    Default

    BB photo's will help for starters.

    MDF wow weighty stuff springs must be stuffed, then again total weight = 3 Sumo wrestlers

    Why removing the AC? This should be decommissioned by a licensed person. The gas is a major health hazard NO FLAMES around. I wouldn't unless refitting with a different updated type.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    Use Meranti (white or light tan, not red) 19mm x 19 mm for frames.

    Buut joints with glue and screw at each intersection.

    Cover in 3 mm ply glued to frames and panel pins for holding.

    Rout out all openings.

    Light and strong.

    For bench tops use 12mm ply.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Some photos: I will fill in the story when I get home.

    Timber against fence is the 3X2 treated structural pine that was the bed frame Aluminum will be used for the new frame.

    Mate sitting, see the motors in the middle of the floor.

    Front of Bus: Note sheet of MDF that was the bed base.

    back soon
    BB

    Since the above posting I have found out that the 2 motors in the middle of the back of the bus are, in fact, for heating and not for AC. The AC goes through overhead distribution. This makes life easier for the removal of these units.

    The sub-frames for cupboards, I am using recycled pine that I gather for nix from the glass factories around town. I run it down to 2 X 1 size (49 X19mm) and the supply is basically endless.

    Aluminium of 25mm square section costs $22.00 for a 6m length, which compares very favorably with any purchased timber price, and I will save time (Wages) of fitting it together with knock ins for the corners and T joints. This will make up the bed frame.

    I am biscuit jointing the sub-frames, takes time but it will be light weight in the finish. This requires the 2x1 for the biscuit cut on the ends.

    So that is where I am up to in material other than using silky oak as the fronts of the benches and cupboards and drawers. I have the silky oak and am selling it to mate at $35.00 per slab 1,5m X 500mm X 40mm and dressing it up.

    Naturally I can't use a level so I built a large square and am working with that, seems to be the way to go.

    Things are much easier when someone comes along with a drawn plan and asks you to build according to the plan. In this little exercise I am the designer, the planner and the builder, which is working my 72 year old brain to the point where I do a lot of the construction layout in my dreams at night.

    All help and suggestions gratefully received
    BB

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Arundel Qld 4214
    Age
    86
    Posts
    701

    Default Van fitout

    Black Bear
    If your looking for something light in weight and light in colour consider using Paulownia. Its easy to work with and glues up very well. It was used in Golf Vans and I think in Jayco. You can buy 'planks', panels or 12 mm thick wall linings. The local garage is doing up an old bus and intends to paint the roof black and attach 50 x 4.5 mm strips leaving small gaps between each
    Food for thought?
    Whitewood

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Bendigo Victoria
    Age
    80
    Posts
    16,560

    Default

    Had a look at this at the last Caravan and Camping Show, very impressive but not cheap!

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    Use Meranti (white or light tan, not red) 19mm x 19 mm for frames.

    Use butt joints with glue and screw at each intersection. Fancy joints are not needed unless you want to.

    Cover in 3 mm ply glued to frames and panel pins for holding.

    Rout out all openings.

    Light and strong.

    For bench tops use 12mm ply.
    Are you guys still interested in throwing your knowledge at me in regards to this project.

    I hope I am not coming over as "Yeah! I know" but I did give some consideration, using my basic knowledge, before taking of a job this large.

    There are some things that the owner had already purchased and wants to use, so I am trying to work to his money level without ripping myself off.

    Using sheets of melamine would be a lot easier but weight wise against framing it will be 3 times the weight of the way I am doing it. I hope.

    NOTE: If buying aluminum 25 X 25 and using knock ins allow 25mm for each knock in take up.

    I put this square section Al. 25 X 25mm in Tom's press and got 1.2 tonne before collapse. I used a 300 mm length for this test and admit that a longer section would most possibly collapse sooner. Admittedly, one has to take in the movement of the frame whilst under load, however it comes in well above the anticipated load to be applied.

    Working like a Ship's Chippy is new to me, but that is the way we go.

    Thanks for your interest
    BB

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    I have made quite a few frames out of cubelock in our motorhome.

    Don't forget that the covering adds immense strength if fitted properly.

    PS, I take it that the melamine is thin.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Port Huon
    Posts
    2,685

    Default

    Being a Sprinter owner, I also hang out over on Sprinter-Source.com - The best reSource for Sprinter van owners and enthusiasts..

    There are a lot of DIY van conversions covered there, most of which use some form of plywood instead of MDF etc. Mostly US based but worth a look.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowyskiesau View Post
    Being a Sprinter owner, I also hang out over on Sprinter-Source.com - The best reSource for Sprinter van owners and enthusiasts..

    There are a lot of DIY van conversions covered there, most of which use some form of plywood instead of MDF etc. Mostly US based but worth a look.
    There is some great work in these vans.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    I have made quite a few frames out of cubelock in our motorhome.

    Don't forget that the covering adds immense strength if fitted properly.

    PS, I take it that the melamine is thin.
    The only sheet I am using is some 6mm melamine covered particle board to line the water container area under the sink in case of spills.

    A 1m X500 X700mm high cupboard framed up and finished,,,without the draws...I can lift over my head with ease.

    I am building them in modular form in the work shed and then fitting them after they have had the d fronts sprayed.

    Don't know cube lock...will check it out.

    We still haven't got around to removing the heater motors from the floor of the unit yet. Will have to do it over a pit. I can't as I spin out when I lay flat on my back like needed.

    It may not be the lightest possible way to do things but with the amount of finishing he intends to put in the van, but it won't amount to overload. I hope.

    The bed frame from Al. weighs about 6 kilo.

    The owner does have some hopefuls: A shower and toilet.....100lL + tank in the boot with 60L under the sink......And something I would like to talk him out of is the 35mm thick bench top which will be 500mm X 2000. Heavy stuff.

    Looking for a hand pump for the sink. Can get new fomo ABCO at $29.00

    Are you supposed to catch the grey water from the sink if you camp rough?

    Some photos coming soon.

    Thanks Chaps
    BB

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Black Bear View Post
    The only sheet I am using is some 6mm melamine covered particle board to line the water container area under the sink in case of spills. That is not water proof. The slightest drop will make it swell and fall apart.

    A 1m X500 X700mm high cupboard framed up and finished,,,without the draws...I can lift over my head with ease.

    I am building them in modular form in the work shed and then fitting them after they have had the d fronts sprayed.

    Don't know cube lock...will check it out. Cubelock is a system of joining 1" square aluminium together with plastic joiners. Mainly used for shop fittings but very strong.

    We still haven't got around to removing the heater motors from the floor of the unit yet. Will have to do it over a pit. I can't as I spin out when I lay flat on my back like needed.

    It may not be the lightest possible way to do things but with the amount of finishing he intends to put in the van, but it won't amount to overload. I hope.

    The bed frame from Al. weighs about 6 kilo.

    The owner does have some hopefuls: A shower and toilet.....100lL + tank in the boot with 60L under the sink......And something I would like to talk him out of is the 35mm thick bench top which will be 500mm X 2000. Heavy stuff. 12 mm is more than sufficient. If he wants the thick look, add an edge.

    Tell him that every kilo adds to the fuel bill.

    Looking for a hand pump for the sink. Can get new fomo ABCO at $29.00

    Are you supposed to catch the grey water from the sink if you camp rough? Most people put a bucket under the outlet but if you are in the scrub some places appreciate the water provided it is not fatty.
    Some photos coming soon.

    Thanks Chaps
    BB

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    My description of the melamine sheeting is not accurate. On sawing it today I found that it was actually a laminated sheet on both front and back. It was recovered fomo an elevator in a high rise.

    Cube lock is the same as I am using, only I call them knock ins. There are many of these knock ins. Right angle, T section and 4 way connections. each one takes up 25mm of the aluminum section.

    And the rest of your post is good advice. I have convinced him to do away with the 35mm bench top.

    Thanks ....Now I know why you get the big money LOL

    BB

    PS has anyone calculated a labor cost for doing out a camper like this, and at what amount per hour.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    It takes about 160 hours minimum if you are custom building and everything goes right (yeah, heard that before) AND you have all the materials and accessories on hand.

    The last one we did was 430 hours all up spread over 6 months.

    The worst part is you generally have to fit and check and then remove to make sure that other stuff fits behind.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
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    228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    It takes about 160 hours minimum if you are custom building and everything goes right (yeah, heard that before) AND you have all the materials and accessories on hand.

    The last one we did was 430 hours all up spread over 6 months.

    The worst part is you generally have to fit and check and then remove to make sure that other stuff fits behind.
    That makes me feel a lot better, . This van is parked next door, my drive not being big enough, and I walk from the shed to the van many times during the day.

    Every time he says, "Just put the cupboards and the bed in, and I will take it home for awhile", he comes back with..."You may as well put in the clothes hanger space, and then I will take it home for awhile". And on it goes.

    He is paying as we go, so he can take it any time, if he wants.

    I talked him out of using the 32mm bench top (Whew).

    I am staying in touch with you blokes as an outlet for my worries over this one, adn already I am feeling butter.

    Thanks
    BB

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