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  1. #1
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    Default Kea Conqueror - Electrical

    Kea Conqueror - Electrical

    My ex rental 2009 build Kea Conqueror Camper is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel.
    It is the model with frig in the middle of the rear space just behind the cab.
    I think earlier Conquerors had smaller frigs mounted on the side behind the driver.
    My vehicle may not be exactly the same as your model (I think Kea called mine “second series”).

    Be careful with variations to circuit and fitted items, as these things are subject to change.

    Caution – when you are working on “house” DC circuits, remove the mains, then remove the house battery negative connection.
    If you are working on house battery “charge’ circuits, then remove the negative connections for both start and house batteries.

    The vehicle has 12 V DC and 240V AC connections.


    12 Volt DC System

    Vehicle Alternator
    The standard alternator fitted to this type of vehicle is a Denso 130 amp ruggedised type, so don’t worry about overloading the alternator with charging an extra battery.
    My alternator design is an “old fashioned type” with an in built regulator, and charging at a nominal 13.8 – 14.2 volts; mine is actually 14.2 volts output.
    It is not a regenerative type (ie for braking) and remains at normal charge volts for low engine RPM.

    The main reason for alternator failure appears to be from overheating or sticking brushes, from mud and driving grot, so wash it after a muddy trip.
    The alternator is not really repairable at home as special tools are required. You may have to cut the old bearings off with an angle grinder, if you don’t have the special bearing puller tools.
    It is best to replace the alternator with an exchange unit.
    Sit down before you ask for a price.
    Nevertheless, the bearings are drive end 6303-2RS, Ashdown BEX6303 and rear B15-69- 2RS, Ashdown BEX2004.
    Brush holder assembly (with new brushes) is Toyota 27370-27060.
    Be careful to get the correct type spare.

    The alternator is bolted to the engine block with a mix of one short hex head bolt, two long hex head bolts and two special (“lobular” head ie Torx) studs, together with short tubular alignment spacers. The alternator can be replaced in the field.
    My E7 Torx head studs sheared their “heads” on removal, and I had to buy new items, but you could just use Hex head bolts of the correct length, as the spacers align the alternator.
    Make sure you remove and retain the spacers, if you remove the alternator.
    In some cases you may not need to remove the E7 studs, only the nuts.
    If you have to remove the alternator front pulley nut, use an impact driver; so easy.
    It is very difficult with anything else.
    The nut is RH thread.

    12 V DC Circuits “House Circuits”
    The 12 V DC House requirement is fed from a separate “house” battery fitted in the engine compartment.
    Originally this was a “N70ZZ” flooded cell (wet) type of approx. 75-90 AH capacity, and I have upgraded this to a 125 AH AGM type, after modifying and strengthening the Piranha battery carrier (similar to Piranha BT70V8D).
    Originally, the battery was fed to a DC distribution panel behind the driver’s seat, via a small 40A thermal circuit breaker on the engine firewall front, and with 10mm2 copper cable.
    These small circuit breakers are not robust, and mine fell apart when I attempted to undo the connection nuts, but the original item is widely available.

    I replaced my breaker with an inline Narva Maxifuse, 40 Amp fuse, replaced the cable with 13mm2 cable and all crimp connectors.
    You can use 16mm 2 cable if available, as it suits standard crimps and crimp tools.

    Do not use any fuse type or circuit breaker with less current carrying capability than a Maxifuse or similar large circuit breaker, as thermal concerns may cause early failure, or even overheating and fire.
    Do not use tubular glass fuses (ie 3AG type), or “ATC/ATO” type 20mm flat plastic case blade fuses under any circumstances for circuits carrying anything over say 10 amps.
    I have seen these ATC fuses and holders partially melt with constant high current, as the units can have relatively high DC resistance, especially those holders with sloppy blade sockets.

    The original house battery had a Voltage Switched Relay (VSR) and 10mm2 cable between the vehicle battery positive (alternator output) and the firewall mounted cct breaker.
    I originally replaced the VSR, as mine had some years of unknown use, and upgraded the cable to 13mm2 copper using crimp connections.
    These VSR units are normally quite reliable; I was being super safe.
    Over the years, I have used single and dual diode voltage “alternator sense” mods, and with VSR, to raise the charge volts for a “better charge”.

    I have removed the diodes and VSR, and now use a Redarc BCDC 25 Amp LV DC-DC charger; this has inherent VSR characteristics.
    This is excellent, and optimises the charging time, especially when travelling from Nat Park to Nat Park without a mains top-up charge.
    See photo for placement suggestion, as the engine compartment is cramped.

    The placement of AGM battery, and BCDC charger, in the engine compartment is a mite controversial and I did some tests prior to installation.
    I drove for two weeks with a remote thermometer sensor tied to the front of the engine compartment firewall for tests, and monitored temperatures under various driving conditions.
    When the engine is hot, and when external temperature is 25 degrees or so, and you are driving along, the firewall area temperature seems to stabilise at around 35 to 45 degrees, ie about 15 to 20 degrees hotter.
    When you stop with engine hot, air ambient temperature climbs to 50 degrees or so, and falls back to 35 quite quickly, (ie in 2 minutes) as you drive away, or as the engine is started and the fan is working.
    The engine compartment components, other than the block and radiator etc, do not heat up during driving as much as you would think..
    So, for my situation, I placed the AGM house battery and BCDC charger in the engine compartment, and if I have a long roadside lunch, and especially at the end of each day’s driving, I simply raise the hood for a while, and I stopped worrying about it.
    If you do this ventilation repeatedly, and check the temperature of the batteries by hand, you will find that the batteries do not reach a relatively high temperature at all.
    I was amazed.
    The Redarc BCDC charger is rated up to 80 degrees C. and is derated a little at high temperatures with some current “rollback”.
    I probably will get slightly less life from my AGM house battery due to my placement, but I change it at three years anyway, and don’t worry about the reduced life.

    A Narva 60 Amp Maxifuse is used as a fusible link between vehicle battery (alternator output) and the Redarc charger, and another 60 Amp Maxifuse is used between the Redarc output and “house” battery.
    These fuse values reduce the electrical resistance of holder and fuse to about 0.01 ohm, and allow charge at 25 amps.

    I carry a VSR as a spare for temporary use, in case the Redarc BCDC fails “on the road”.

    I have added a 0-20 and 0-200 bi-directional (shows + and - amps) ammeter sitting on top of my dash, and the current shunt is directly at the “house battery” positive terminal, so I can see charge and drain currents.
    It is left permanently ON, and draws a very low 6mA.
    I made the current shunt out of 110mm of 3mm stainless welding rod, and mounted it on a connection block. It is 0.0105 ohm, to allow a 5% back calibration adjustment.
    It mates with 0-200mV meters to show plus and minus 0-20 and 0-200 amps switchable.

    Rear DC Distribution
    Refer to the original wiring circuit.
    It shows that the house battery is wired firstly to the panel behind the driver to feed some circuits, and then to the rear switch panel to feed others.

    Originally the Waeco CF80 frig was wired from a cct breaker on the rear panel next to the sink. As the frig has top priority in a camper, at least in mine it does, and as the frig has built-in battery DC voltage sense for cut-out, I wanted to have a minimum of voltage drop in the battery cables feeding the frig.

    So I have rearranged the cct breakers on the front panel and feed the frig from here instead of from the rear panel, and with the shortest possible (ie cut short) Waeco DC power lead. I utilised a “spare” cct breaker and renamed it ...“Frig”.

    The rear switch panel (near sink) feeds all cabin lighting, the DC power outlets, Water Tank Display, and the Water Pump.
    I used a spare cct breaker as a switch for a TV amplifier which I installed in the TV antenna cabling.

    The earth return for all DC “house” loads is via an earth lug on the vehicle chassis near the panel behind the driver, and this is cabled to another single earth terminal, behind the rear cabinet and accessible by sliding the window directly behind the rear switch panel.
    I made my rear cabling more accessible by cutting out a small piece of the rear cabinet to allow the window catch to clear, and to allow increased window sliding distance.

    There is no electrical advantage in running a separate heavy earth cable from the house battery to the rear earth lug points, as the vehicle chassis resistance is very low, and currents drawn are relatively low.

    The front and rear DC breaker panels are BEP Marine type, and all the breakers are now IEG/AX1 type, with various current trip ratings to suit the various loads.
    The original “Solar” and “Charger” breakers on the front panel were 15A Carling push button types.
    The rear panel also has a built in analogue DC voltmeter, and I checked mine against a calibrated DVM, as I use it to determine remaining battery capacity for the frig.

    I carry a DVM on remote trips for tests and possible faults..

    Lighting
    I replaced all fixed original 12 V fluoro light fittings (Labcraft and Lumolight) with LED types with remarkable improvement to both light level and power efficiency.
    I used strip lights for the rear inside general lighting, mounted in the original positions of the fluoro lights, so as to utilise the original cabling
    The front overhead cabin light was replaced with a 48 LED flat panel fitting with inbuilt switch.
    I have added four extra LED lamps to the rear.
    An external 250mm “awning style” fitting illuminates the cooking area, and draws 300mA.
    A small LED “courtesy” type lamp illuminates the rear area as a down light and allows me to read and have an early morning coffee whilst the rest of the camper is in darkness.
    Two other “courtesy style” LED lamps illuminate the rear step tread with one lamp, and another is directed onto the pop-top ceiling to allow a low intensity backlight for night time which can be left on almost permanently as the draw is so low (approx 40mA). These lamps are switched together.
    I have added two small adjustable strip LED reading lights (with inbuilt switches) to the front pop-top ceiling with Velcro.

    All these rear lights are fed from the “Lighting” cct breaker on the rear panel, and via a small distribution strip left loose in the vehicle cavity overhead the rear doors.

    Solar Panel and Regulator
    My flexible solar panel (actually two panels in series) has a max charge current of approx 2.6 amps at a nominal 12 volts, and is only intended to provide a trickle charge, and to perhaps project a “green” image for rental marketing.
    Note that the solar regulator is a series type regulator, and the manufacturer has test methods and other data on their website.
    Replacement solar panels were available from Bonnetti Campers, and the regulator can be easily replaced with 6 amp units from electronic stores, using connection diagram provided with the new regulator.

    Water Pump and Water Level Sense Panel
    Refer to separate “Plumbing” article.
    Note that the Shurflo water pump type has now been superseded with (supposedly) an interchangeable type.

    Mains 240 V AC
    My mains entry is via a rear 15 amp Clipsal fitting, cabled to the MCB/RCD on the panel behind the driver, then to the two GPOs.
    Remember to test trip the RCD occasionally.
    Mains earth is connected to vehicle earth.

    The mains circuit breaker in my vehicle was an NHP mini combined MCB and RCD 16 Amp C curve, with 30mA trip RCD, and switched active and neutral.
    Your electrician will understand all that, if replacement is required.
    Unless you are licensed, do not alter the mains circuits or components, as you will void certifications etc., and you may make your vehicle unsafe.
    Remember that the GPOs are double pole types, and your electrician will be aware of this if replacement is required.

    Mains Battery Charger
    The original charger is a fully sealed 7 amp three stage charger, and was specified against an original 75-90 AH N70 series type house battery.
    There are various manufacturers of this standard type of charger, Alphatron, Victron, Leab etc.

    The low charge rating was intended to provide a safe and secure slow overnight charge in a caravan park situation, every two days or so. It was also economical in price.
    Even though my present house battery is a 125AH AGM type, I have kept this original charger, and carry a spare, as while it is slow, it works well, has no fan noise, and is super reliable.
    It does get a bit warm on max charge.

    My charger is a two stage AGM charger, and rests at 6.5 Amps charge current, and falls back to almost zero when the battery is fully charged.
    I carry a small jumper lead with two medium size alligator clips to allow parallel connections of the two batteries at the positive terminals, so that the start battery can also get a top up in some rare situations, eg after winching etc.

    “Electrical” Items Added to the Original Camper
    For interest, I have added the following.

    Dash mounted Hema HN7 GPS and rear reversing camera, each fed from two separate dual 12V to 5V USB car converters hard wired to the start battery as follows.
    The dash camera USB converter is via a switch (with “ON” LED) from the engine compartment battery connection box connection BATT, and is available at all times.
    The GPS USB converter is powered from the ACC connection in the same box.

    Icom 400 PRO UHF CB radio powered from the BATT connection via a dash switch with “ON” LED. This and the AM-FM car radio are diode fed to allow “radio” operation with vehicle keys removed, so as to not affect other vehicle circuits by back feed. The “ON” LED allows visual indication if left on accidentally.
    The UHF CB antenna is mounted on the driver’s side front top driving light aluminium base, and fed with RG58 coax. It is an RFI mini floppy “end fed” vertical. The coax is run down the rain channel behind the snorkel, into the engine bay, then through the firewall rubber grommet and into the under dash area.

    I have used a Narva 72560BL buzzer fed via a dash switch with “ON” LED and via the driver’s “door open” switch, to give an audible alarm when leaving the headlights on. The dash switch disables the buzzer if you really want the lights on and door open. I wrapped my buzzer in electrical tape as it was too loud.

    I permanently mounted a small air compressor in an available space in the engine compartment, but this is wired by alligator clips to the start battery.

    I mounted a 9500lb winch, and cabled it to the start battery, but with the positive cable lug held off the terminal with a tie, ready for connection when required.

    Jump Start Precautions
    If you jump start your standard Kea Conqueror vehicle (ie fitted with VSR) from another vehicle, it is probably a good idea to remove the interconnector fuse between the starter battery (alternator output) and the house battery.
    This removes any possibility of blowing the interconnector fuse in the time period when the engine is turning over and starting.
    The Redarc BCDC does not allow current to “reverse flow” from the house battery under any normal circumstances, so when you are jump starting from another vehicle, removing the fuse is not really required.
    I have confirmed this with Redarc Technical Advisory staff.

    You can attempt to jump start from your own house battery by jumpering the two battery positive terminals temporarily with a heavy lead.
    If you do have start starting difficulties, you should always check your start battery positive terminal connection, and the earth connection. Most “battery problems” are due to connection problems.

    Parts and Data caution - watch for variations
    For vehicle parts and exploded diagrams, use the Toyota Parts catalogue from TOYOTA | Japan Parts EU

    Alternator - Denso 130 Amp, Toyota part 27060-51010, Denso part 104210-5470, (Ashdown DXA550)
    Alternator E7 Torx head studs - "Stud Hex Lobular" Toyota 90126-08021, Flange bolt Toyota 91551-80880
    Front and rear DC breaker panels - BEP Marine types
    IEG/AX1 Circuit Breakers - Airpax type IEG66 or similar, Springers "Series B" $37
    Maxi Fuse Holder - Narva In line 60 Amp, Weatherproof, Narva 54414.
    Lights strip - Dreamlighting brand Slimline Ultrabright Strip $55.40, Springers etc
    Lights drivers cab - LED 12V 48 LEDs white panel $49
    Lights awning - Awning 12V 250mm - $39.70, Springers etc
    Lights reading - 12 LED swivel 150mm, Dreamlighting PN0013106c white Bias Boating #7267 $19,
    Lights rear “courtesy” - 2 LED, Bias Boating #6819, RWB 982 $14.95
    Unisolar (prob) PVL31 x2 10 volt 31 watt, 60 watt Kea video says 64W, 2 x 395mmx1410mm
    Morningstar Sunguard Solar Regulator , 4.5 Amp max PWM type, Reg volts 14.1V
    Water Pump - Shurflo 2088-403-143, 30 PSI, replaced by Shurflo 4009 series $150 Camec and CaravansPlus
    Water indicators - BEP Marine RV-TG-2G, two (2) senders RV-TS-5M
    Vehicle radio - Toyota 17423, Toyota PZQ60-60040, Fujitsu Ten 122001-9950B151 - no security code
    Cigarette DC Outlet – (Good quality) SUTARS Compact Flush Mounted #1218, Springers $9
    Dual USB Charger - For GPS PSU and general, Altronics M8625, 4.8A 5V DC Car Dual USB Adaptor or similar


    00 Kea Conqueror 2009 build.jpg01 Original front panel external view.jpg02 Original front panel rear.jpg03 Modified front panel.jpg04 Original Rear DC Panel.jpg05 Modified rear wiring rear DC panel.jpg06 Rear courtesy LED light over rear step.jpg07 Reading Lights Over Bed.jpg08 BCDC Charger placement.jpg09 Kea Conqueror Old Wiring 2012.jpg10 Kea Conqueror New Wiring 2012.jpg11 Alternator fitted to 2009 Kea Conqueror.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Solar Panel Replacement.

    I have replaced the original 60 watt solar panel(s) with one 180 watt flexible panel.
    (The originals were two 6 volt 60 watt panels in series to produce 12 volts 60 watts).
    The original panel was merely a trickle charger and possibly intended by Kea to be a “green” marketing tool, rather than an effective partial solar charging solution.

    Instead of removing the original panels which were very effectively glued to the pop-top roof, I sized up the replacement and found that it neatly sit on top of the originals, being slightly smaller all around.
    So, I just mounted the new panel on top of the old panel. I used 12# x 15mm 306 stainless PK screws and washers, through the eyelet mounts, and then through the original panel edge into the fibreglass, using an appropriate pilot drill bit. Sounds rough, looks good, works well.

    In my case, this did not ruin the original panel, nor did it short circuit any electrical sub-panel.
    Be careful here, as you don’t want a slow short circuit bubbling away in the old panel.

    Identify, isolate, insulate, and secure, the old panel cable DC connectors in the DC panel behind the driver’s seat. Leave all the old cabling intact. (The old cable cannot carry the current of the new panel, and is difficult to remove).

    The new panel DC connectors were cut off, and these cables were routed through new holes in the angled section of the pop-top roof, just behind the solar panel rear. This then went to a junction box inside the vehicle, and fed with new 2 x 10mm2 flexible cable all the way down the driver’s side rear corner of the pop-top canvas, and then to the regulator.
    As the new panel current capacity was nearly 10 Amp, I installed a new solar regulator in the physical position of the old 4 Amp regulator. No need for MPPT regulators at this charge level, as the efficiency improvement is very marginal, and not worth the extra cost.

    In an optimum position, I can now charge at 9.5 Amps measured, which is a great improvement.
    I was so impressed with this upgrade that I bought a spare solar panel and regulator.

    Panel – Jaycar ZM9156 or similar, 12 V 180 watt, check for appropriate overall size before purchase.
    Regulator – Jaycar MP3126, 12 V 20A, or similar.
    Junction Box – Altronics H9403 or similar, double sided tape attached to the ceiling.

  4. #3
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    2018 Update

    No vehicle electrical faults or unusual happenings to date.
    No failures in "house" electrical system cabling, or with components such as lights or pump.
    Redarc BCDC charger has performed without a single issue .
    I now only use Fullriver DC120-12B AGM batteries and replace at end of 3 years. They just squeeze into my carrier, and seem to perform well.
    Also, these have slightly higher capacity than 120 AH if discharged at say the Waeco frig drain of 5 Amps.
    I have no associations with Fullriver or its resellers.
    Last year in The Kimberley, one of the second battery holder top bolts became a tiny bit loose. You have to keep these bolts tight as the battery weighs 32 Kg.
    The 180 watt solar panel and regulator works well, and is one of the best mods for this vehicle.

    regards to you all.

  5. #4
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    Default Another Conqueror

    Thanks for your information.
    We bought a Kea Conqueror from 2010 last year and plan to do the big lap in one year time.
    I'm slowly upgrading it bit by bit and just starting to look at the electrical side. I've got the same configuration as you have and I agree that the solar panel does not make sense if you stay more than a day off grid and not driving.
    Cheers.
    Alain

  6. #5
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    Hi Alain
    I also now carry an aditional foldup solar mat and use a second regulator.
    Mine is a Hard Korr 200 watt mat and works well.
    It develops the quoted output in blue sky midday sun.
    It works satisfactorily up to 45 degrees angle of light incidence.

  7. #6
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    Default

    Thanks Mike. I found a 350W panel to fit on the top of the original one.

  8. #7
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    Hi Alain

    Thats good.

    keep in mind that vehicle rooftop solar panels are good sometimes but cant replace a panel that can be placed on the ground and shifted to follow the sun.

    This is because inevitably people want to park under trees or in shade to keep the vehicle cool.

    Vehicle roof panels are good while you are touring and parked to shop or walk around a town.

    Additionally,
    I am on the way home after a trip to the tip of Cape York.

    It has been an unusually hot winter up here with 23 deg minimums and 33 deg maximums, which means that battery powered frigs are working overtime and flattening traveler's batteries in very short times.
    If you then have a cloudy day with minimal solar charging, it gets worse.
    I have assisted quite a few campers on this trip who thought their system was not working.
    But it was just that their solar panels and or batteries were too small for the job.

    I can go into the maths of this if you like when I get home in a week or so.

    Good luck

  9. #8
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    Default

    Hi Mike,

    Good to hear from your trip in Cqpe York. I guess you enjoyed it.
    I understand your point about roof panel and shadow. At the moment I'm looking only to replace the existing roof installation. For a mobile panel I'll see later.
    The things Im' struggling with are running down cables from the panel. I would be interested to see photos of your cabling installation to understand where you did cross over the roof. Do you have cables running on the ceiling before going along the fabric walls and where did you run down from the bed?
    My solar controller is behind the driver seat, above all the electrical panel and I would prefer not to have to go along the windscreen, down to the floor and back the the electrical panel. My preference would be to find a path to go straight from the be to the panel behind the seat.
    For the maths that's something I can do, thank you for proposing.
    Enjoy your trip.
    Cheers.
    Alain

  10. #9
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    Default

    My panel cables go singly through the roof "over the sink" to a connection box on the small slanted roof area, then run in Tyco brand 4 mm 2 twin cable along the roof cornice to the inside of the rear drivers side canvas "zipper", then down and along the rear of the sinktop, then behind the swing door pantry to the solar regulator mounted behind the driver seat.
    The panel cable run is cut to approx 0.5 m.
    The new cable run is approx 5.5 m.

    At the roof penetration, small cable ties either side give physical restraint to the panel cable , and a dab of silicone gives weather sealing.

    Photos soon.

  11. #10
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    Home.
    Photos of cabling for new rooftop solar panel.
    Note that the new cabling roof penetration is below the upper roof line and protected from "snags".
    Old cabling left in situ, difficult to remove, but isolated and folded back in distribution panel at rear of driver's seat.
    New cabling a mite lacking in elegance, but is a short run and functional.
    I have used the old panel connection blocks on top and rear as tie down points for new cabling.
    The funny looking black "thing" is a protection shield for the cabling connection against low tree branches.
    Attached with a dab of silicone and double cable tied; renewable if required.
    It is just a piece of 20mm thin garden PVC water pipe, with one slit lengthwise.
    Also acts as a UV shield for that new solar panel plastic connection block.
    The new internal overhead cable connection box houses four fully insulated "yellow" crimp lugs.
    Lucky for me that I have fifteen electrical crimping tools of all descriptions; you should use the correct double compression type crimp tool for this relatively high current job.
    The box is attached to the inside roof with double sided adhesive tape

    P1050826 lo.jpgP1050827 lo.jpgP1050829 lo.jpgP1050832 lo.jpgP1050828 lo.jpg

  12. #11
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    Hi Mike,
    Thanks for the photos and the details. It will help me to better route the solar cables.
    I like your trick for the protection of the solar panel connector block. You're right these things have not been designed for 4WD and adding a protection is a very good idea. I was focused on protecting the cables from branches but my connector is way bigger than the previous one. However it is very close to the first cell and don't have much space to add something to deviate the branches. I need to think more about it. I already purchased a small junction box for the ceiling. The fabric of my roof top seems a bit different so I will run the cable down at a different place just above the kitchen.
    I will put some photos if you want.
    Cheers mate.

  13. #12
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    Default Kea Conqueror – Electrical - Adding An Extra House Battery

    Kea Conqueror – Electrical - Adding An Extra House Battery

    I have recently added an extra AGM house battery, making my house bank two Fullriver 120AH units.
    One battery is in the engine bay, the other in the rear side locker near the table.

    This extra battery gives me three days running of the Dometic CFX75 frig in spring autumn type weather.

    I have replaced the mains charger with a new Victron IP65 15 Amp fanless (quiet) unit.
    This is easily sufficient for an overnight gentle but full charge in a van park using mains.
    I have retained the Redarc 1225 DC DC charger.

    I have rewired the DC connections to accommodate the extra battery.
    The extra battery has two 60 Amp Maxi fuses, one at the battery terminal, the other at the main DC connection where it is in parallel with the engine bay AGM battery.
    Cable is 2x10 mm2 run inside the vehicle and through the passenger side firewall to the DC connection panel in the engine bay.
    The extra battery has a simple bracket type physical retainer, and 3 mm thick Kevlar type plastic cover; extremely tough stuff.

    Beer is cold, life is good.


    LC House batt2 2022.jpgLC Mains Chgr 2022 P1060139.jpg

  14. #13
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    Default Kea Conqueror – Using A Solar Mat and Charger

    Kea Conqueror – Using An External Solar Mat and Charger



    Last Year I trialed a Hard Korr brand 200 watt solar mat/blanket, and hard wired the supplied charger into the engine bay.


    Worked well and I measured the actual current against the rated current as correct, and achieved under midday blue sky.


    I made up two 10 metre cables (twin 6 mm2) with Anderson type connectors.
    Trust me, you need 20 metres if you camp under a tree for shade.


    Input to the vehicle was via another Anderson connector attached to the vehicle front grille.
    Together with the poptop solar panel, I can now get about 18 amps charge, under optimum conditions.

    I store my fold up mat and one cable in the locker behind the passenger seat, on LHS of the frig.



    Then I occasionally noticed something odd happening with my house battery charge monitoring system.
    It was if one solar regulator was interfering with the other.


    My poptop solar regulator was a Jaycar 20 amp PWM type, and when I installed the solar mat regulator, I thought I would minimise my spares for remote trips by buying and another regulator of the exact same type as the poptop regulator, and install that, instead of the Hard Korr supplied PWM unit.


    These automatic type regulators have a cycle of “charge, charge off, test battery volts, charge, charge off, test ....” in a cycle of maybe a few minutes.

    So two identical regulators with approximately the same cycle period will eventually go into and out of sync, and there may be interaction.
    Most people don’t have two regulators working at the same time, and even if they did, they probably would not notice any interaction.

    I decided to change regulators, but opted for a Kings 20 amp MPPT type for experimentation, and the extra 0.0001% efficiency.

    Installed OK and now have almost no more observed interaction.



    When I am driving, my poptop solar panel and my Redarc 1225 DC DC charger are charging at the same time.
    I now remember seeing a slight glitch occasionally in the charge current on my dash meter, or the charge current being lower and not being what I would expect for the battery bank condition on the day.
    I now assume that a similar type minor interaction is taking place, and I switch my poptop solar regulator off if interaction is noticed, otherwise both are left on.



    For the technical and curious – I think this interaction will occur mostly when the battery bank is nearer full charge, as the battery is not so stiff with voltage. The terminal voltage of a mostly discharged battery voltage only rises on charge ever so slightly over time, until a moderate charge condition is reached. This is why you may have noticed sometimes that the time from 90% charge condition to 95% occurs relatively quickly. The battery is not really a “non-linear electrical item”, but rather an “electrochemical item”.
    Interaction is probably occurring when one regulator in a “test voltage” phase “sees” the slightly elevated charge voltage of the other regulator, and decides that the battery condition is higher than it really is, and throttles back the constant charge current of say a DC DC charger.


    For your general reading and amusement.

    Pls excuse photos for Cape York dust and grime

    Solar Mat chgr.jpgSolar mat conn.jpg

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