Thread: Kea Conqueror – Waeco CF80 Frig Cleanup and Modifications.

Kea Conqueror – Waeco CF80 Frig Cleanup and Modifications.


My ex rental 2009 Kea Conqueror is based on a 2008 Toyota VDJ78 Troop Carrier with a 4.5 litre V8 diesel. It is the model with frig in the middle of the rear space just behind the cab. I think earlier Conquerors had smaller frigs mounted on the side behind the driver, so this info might not be exactly applicable. Also my vehicle may not be exactly the same as your model (I think Kea called them “second series”).

The frig is physically installed by Kea by removing and discarding the CF80 handles, and using the M6 threaded mounts to screw it through the RHS wall of the passenger side lift up lid security, and also by screws through a manufactured aluminium and plywood baffle unit on the driver’s side, (side with frig control panel).

To get to the RHS baffle mount screws, you first have to remove a small horizontal cabinet panel approx 100 mm by 500mm which sits over the top of the baffle mount.
Mine was covered with glued auto type carpet, and I had to find the top panel attaching screw first by swinging a small magnet on a thread over the screw to find its location, then used a sharp knife to make an explorative incision (laparotomy!).
My single screw was in the middle of the panel, and was square drive CSK head Robertson #8 x 30mm.
To remove those little white plastic cabinet connectors, use a #2 cross point screwdriver at an angle of approx 30 off vertical to the round plastic end, and turn ACW to release.
I removed the RHS baffle mount and only reused the vertical baffle separator.

Remove power cables.
Remove all four frig retaining M6 metal thread screws, and manipulate the frig so that the four screws and washers can be reinserted but on the inside of the frig cavity, and leaving say 15 mm thread visible.
Then using two small lengths of approx 5 mm dia poly cord with loops on each end , lift the frig out, with your improvised “cord handles”. Two people are best, as you may have to wiggle it out. But, one man can lift it.

Clean up the vehicle frig space.
Clean up the frig with warm water and mild detergent.
Check latches and hinges, replacing as necessary.
After about 2006, (I think) the frig lamp is an LED type, so no lamps need replacing.
Check by just manipulating the plastic lamp carrier upwards. If yours is a bulb, replace it.

All latches, hinges, bulbs, cables are widely available.

Remove the compressor access panel and clean out the area carefully, without damaging the condenser fins.
Check that the mains fuse is OK and clean and making good contact. It is a 4 Amp M205 type (ie 20mm long x 5mm diameter).

I replaced my BD50 compressor fan with a Duratech mag-lev low noise fan from Jaycar.
The original was a "Yate Loon" brand type GP D12BM-12.
The new fan is now very, very quiet, but has similar characteristics to the original.
Take care to get a similar airflow type, and install with correct airflow direction.
Facing the frig end, it draws air in via the LHS vent over the compressor, through the finned condenser, and out through the RHS vent.

I also attempted to improve airflow by removing the punched metal type openings on the compressor access panel, and replacing with muffin fan wire finger protectors.I carefully cut the around the panel with a tiny metal chisel, then used a half round file and abrasive paper to clean up. A touch of Cabot’s “Crystal Clear” or similar was painted onto the bare metal edges.

Test run the frig for normal behaviour before replacement in the Land Cruiser.

I also rewired my Conqueror for the frig.
The original DC wiring had the frig cabled firstly to the plywood connection box behind the driver’s seat, then to the rear breaker panel near the kitchen sink, then back to the frig via the plywood connection box behind the driver.
I wanted to minimize cable loss, so I installed a new breaker into an unused slot on the front breaker panel behind the driver, and used new 2 x 2.5mm sq. (copper) red and black cabling to a new barrier strip type terminal connection block behind the driver, and then connected the original Waeco DC cable to this.

In the photo, you can see two other wires terminate here.
These are Test Points for Solar Charge Volts, and Mains Battery Charge Volts.
I removed the “Frig” name tag from the rear breaker panel (there was another underneath marked “Spare”, lucky eh?) and reused in the front.Install the CF80 frig into the Land Cruiser and test run it.
Retain some form of air baffle on the RHS of the installed frig, so as to create a definite air flow.
Mine draws air in from the vehicle rear and expels it via the front vent and vertical clearance space where the cables feed through.
Keep these vents clear.
My frig is now screw mounted on the LHS only, and I have used a piece of suitably cut plywood on the RHS at the cavity bottom to “locate” the frig base, along with the air baffle.
This allows sufficient frig rigidity and easier field frig removal.

My frig draws just under 4 amps on DC, sometimes up to 5.5A, and appears to have a different running cycle mode when on mains, which has operation priority.
The compressor seems to run in longer bursts when on mains. Not sure about this.

I was going to replace the CF80 (with BD50) with a CF60 (with BD35 and slightly lower current, but we now love our frig and it will not be replaced.
The size is excellent, and it really doesn’t draw much more than a BD35.
On the road, we set the frig to -14 deg, and the low volts cutout at “LOW”.

Hopefully of use to someone.

Cheerio, mike

New Frig fan -Duratech Mag Lev 0.22A, 1500rpm, 64 cfm, 120x120x25 12V, Jaycar YX2584 or similar
Fan wire finger guard – Jaycar YX2515 or similar.
Terminal block – Bias Boating type 539 or similar
DC Circuit Breakers - Airpax or similar, Springers CB 15A B $37

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