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  1. #76
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    To all who are interested but unsure if it will work in their workshops....

    I've got to say it again, hopefully the naysayers have lost interest by now, but this should be thrashed out to everybodies satisfaction, and i don't think it's rocket surgery

    You need to check with an electrician to see what size motor your wiring will support, remember you will be running another big motor at the same time (saw, planer etc).

    -Almost everyone will be able to have a 15amp plug put in, which limits you to a 3hp motor and 15" fan.
    (which is good for a small workshop -expect 1100cfm at 4" static pressure (small workshop short ducts),but falling to 429cfm at 10"sp (medium sized workshop, longer ducts))

    -Many (most?) will be able to run a 4hp motor on a 20amp plug or hard wired

    -Some will be able to run a 5hp single phase motor, with a 16" fan - wha-hoooo
    (expect about 1800cfm in a small shop (4"sp) and a still very healthy 1200cfm in a mediun shop(10" sp)
    -these figures are for 60hz motors with smaller fans - so are ballpark, not gospel-

    The 50/60hzmotor issue is a non-issue, well almost. We have 50hz so we get 2880rpm, america has 60 hz so they get 3300rpm (or something like that), that's ok, really, we have other tools turning that little bit slower, and they work fine.

    Ed uses Leeson 5hp compressor duty capacitor start motors because they are quality, and perfectly suited to the application.
    The same is avaliable in Aus (ie.quality and suitability) As i understand it, (and please ,anyone who can help simplify/correct the situation chime in)
    -compressor duty
    The duty cycle of a machine refers to how long it can keep operating before it needs a rest.
    If you have to turn your cyclone off for half an hour every hour (50% duty cycle) that's no good.
    We want 100% (or higher) duty cycle so it can run continuously
    -capacitor start
    there are two types,CSCR have a lower full load amperage so try to get one of them
    Capacitor Start/Induction Run
    A single phase general purpose design, with an electrolytic capacitor in series with the start winding, offering maximum starting torque per ampere.
    A centrifugal switch removes the auxiliary winding and capacitor when the motor approaches full load speed. The design is a heavy duty unit which has approximately 300% (of full load) starting torque. Common applications include compressors, pumps conveyors and other "hard-to-start" applications.
    Capacitor Start/Capacitor Run
    A single phase general purpose design, with an electrolytic capacitor in series with the start winding, offering maximum starting torque per ampere.
    A second run capacitor remains in series with the auxiliary winding during full load operation. This type of design has lower full-load amps as a result of the run capacitor and is consequently used on most higher horsepower single phase motors.


    The Fans are steel, and are fitted to almost any size shaft by a suitable taperlock adaptor , which Ed will supply if you know your shaft Diameter, but which can be sourced here too.


    The housing is MDF and plastic, easy to assemble, and screws onto the top of the cyclone (some people place them separately, with ducting between)


    The housing bolts to the face of the motor and you hang the whole lot from the wall or ceiling.


    You need at least 8 feet for this and i'm not super happy with the setup i have because the dust bin at the botton fills up too quickly, and when full all subsequent dust goes to the filters
    I eeked every last inch (left one inch for air to cool motor)

    Last edited by hugh reid2; 15th August 2008 at 10:42 PM. Reason: can't type

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  3. #77
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    Anyone interested in a heavy duty 2.5-3hp motor might want to take a look at the Royce Cross website on the 2nds page.
    Those after a 2nd hand 5.5hp unit take a look at this one.
    http://www.roycecross.com.au/product...iable&Variable[ProductCodeID]=S4-2-B5KOL

    prozac

  4. #78
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    Hoping that leesen works here. But if not this looks good to me.

    Heres a 3hp single phase version from that site Prozac gave(thanks mate). $300.
    http://www.roycecross.com.au/product...iable&Variable[ProductCodeID]=SBB2CRXM

    Heres a page maybe for the 3phase people.
    http://www.roycecross.com.au/product...iable&Variable[cat1]=415V+Alloy+Standard+Motors&Variable[cat2]=2+Pole+-+2900rpm+415V&Variable[cat3]=-1&Variable[searchfilter]=-1&Variable[sqlFilter]=-1&pager=1&startpage=1

    3 phase is me.........but which of those do you think would suit Hugh (or anyone else) ? I'm out of my depth now......the B35 foot flange mount at the bottom there is catching my eye. In the 'please select product bit' the 5Hp is about $400. which sounds ok. Its continuous duty.



    mounting it myself be easy enough I'd say, but I'd like confirmation on everything else. rotation direction ? ...does it match the impeller Ed sells....Just remember reading in Bills site the importance of direction etc. size. that sort of thing to get the best performance I can from Ed's cyclone.

    What if I went bigger than 5hp ? Say if I went for the 7.5hp version, what would happen ? Would it suck significantly more still, or will it be just overkill (could be a bit of fun in anycase )

  5. #79
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    for some reason my links didn't work. can get them through the menu at left.

    here the ones I'm talking about anyway.

    pic 1.... from the general purpose 240V section. single phase. 3hp. about $300

    pic 2....from the alloy standard motors 415V section. 3 phase 5hp. about $400

    what do you think ?

  6. #80
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    Have a look on the "Seconds" page. Some factory seconds and some are second hand and I think tested. Quite a bit cheaper if you are prepared to wait for the right one to turn up.

    Motor direction. With 3-phase it is simply a matter of reversing any two of the phases. ie: The connections.

    prozac

  7. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by prozac View Post
    Have a look on the "Seconds" page. Some factory seconds and some are second hand and I think tested. Quite a bit cheaper if you are prepared to wait for the right one to turn up.

    Motor direction. With 3-phase it is simply a matter of reversing any two of the phases. ie: The connections.

    prozac
    ta. forgot about that with 3 phase.

  8. #82
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    Mar 2005
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    Here I am building a Dusty house to shove it outside the shed and after convincing SWMBO that I need to do it. And this pops up, I'd love one of these cyclones but it won't fit into what I'm building for the Dusty and the money side of things too.

    But it's a rip-snorta thread that I'm enjoying following.

    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  9. #83
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    Here's one going cheap .....about 7.3hp though ...something like $1/hour to run

  10. #84
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    At least you've got one Waldo ! ..

    Seems there's no problem with getting a motor that attaches off the side only as well eh. (HF mounting ? not sure of the jargon) anyway, not face frame mount.

    A picture I pinched from Bills site.

    Seem pretty straight forward and should open your options a bit, if looking for a second hand motor. But thinking a face frame be easier to mount.

  11. #85
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    Hugh

    I think I want in, but I'm not sure what unit I should get. Tools to be connected are
    contractors style table saw
    lathe
    10" jointer/thicknesser
    14" bandsaw
    router table
    16" drum sander
    6" stationary belt / 9" disk sander
    10" mitre saw

    already have
    a (2hp?) carbatech dust collector (top and bottom bags) that lives beside the jointer/thicknesser and drum sander
    plus the little (1HP?) single bag blower that is supposed to collect from the lathe, band saw and disk sander/linsher but is not particularly effective
    and there's a Festo 22CT, mostly for the sanders

    most of the tools are on wheels and move in and out from the wall as they are used
    I don't really want to fully plumb the garage beyond what's needed for the linisher and lathe because the other stuff moves arround quite a bit including into the driveway
    but I definitely want to improve dust collection from the BS and table saw

    I can do the maths for duct sizing and the like, but I'm not so good when it comes to calculating motor power -- I much prefer working to a recommendation such as "that one"

    any motor I buy would need to run off a 10A supply


    I'm guessing that the Feso vac + a mini would be a good combination for the router table, but would be over stretched by the BS and TS

    so given the research you've done what size unit should I be looking at and, more importantly, if we're individually sourcing and fiting Aus spec motors which one?



    I do appreciate the effort you're puting into this

    ian

  12. #86
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    I know its for Hugh, but I agree on this.

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    I can do the maths for duct sizing and the like, but I'm not so good when it comes to calculating motor power -- I much prefer working to a recommendation such as "that one"
    Be ideal for Ed to ship leeson motors with the package that will work on our mains. fingers crossed.

    We still need someone to organise this.

  13. #87
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    I have spoken to my boss on the phone just now. He's quite interested as am I. He said he may even buy two. Will show him everything I've learned on it tomorrow.

    I will be purchasing a 1800 unit one way or another (if ok by Ed). It looks like too good a machine to pass up. I'll wear the high shipping costs if need be. Its not overly more expensive when you consider equivelent dubious machines we have available here and their prices.

    I feel confident in fitting a motor purchased from Australia should the Leesen be no good here (sounds most likely) so group buy without motor like Ed mentioned maybe the go.

    Can you ship to Brisbane Ed ? ....cause I can pickup from there. I'll try and make enquiries this week on taxes etc. Don't know much about it but will soon find out. Get a ball park figure of costs. then talk to my boss to see if he's in. See how many you want to be with us. Set a cut off date, and maybe make the order then ?

    Feel I have to make a push on this.......interest in it seems to be dying, or seems like will just drag on for months. (no offence to anyone please) I'd like DE setup before christmas at least.


  14. #88
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    The unit comes in parts to be assembled? Could always fake the cost on the paperwork, who is to know what something unusual as this and made of PLASTIC is worth? Maybe deeper discussion should occur offline.

    prozac

  15. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Hugh

    any motor I buy would need to run off a 10A supply

    ian
    Ian, you are severely limited if you can only run 10amps
    10amps x 240volts = 2400kw = about 2hp

    I am sure an electrician can put in a 15 or 20 amp circuit, they take a new feed from your meter box, and put a new fuse in costs a bit but well worth it (- the best idea is a new feed to a new sub-board with a safety trip (RCD) in the workshop, to allow for future mods)

    but if this is not possible....

    2hp with a 12" fan should still give you 878cfm at 60hz with minimal ducting, and only drawing 1.5hp, so the the process of educated guesswork i would estimate that 2hp with 15" fan at 50hz will at least that good but will draw more amps if all your gates are open. do not run it without an ammeter to check current draw. note that this will be pretty cr-p with long ducts

    Your 2hp carbatec with absolutely clean bags will suck better, but suction will fall away quickly as the bags clog with dust. and until the bags are clogged they are letting the small particles (that get deeper into the lungs) pass through, in fact they are pumped into the air. You have a fine dust fountain pretending to be a dust collector.
    I found that the drum sander is by far the worst for fine dust, but it can be wheeled up to the collector

    The really good thing about the cyclone is that you can always get a larger fan/motor later but you want to try for 15amps or you may be dissapointed

    With a smaller motor/fan the placement of everything is far more important.
    -Place the things you can't move close togeather and put the cyclone close to them. -Minimize duct length and bends.
    -Use 6" ducts and modify tool dust chutes to 6" (or 2x4")
    -Wheel mobile tools to cyclone when you want to use them.

    BUT SEE IF YOU CAN GET 15 AMPS

    You will find far more info on all aspects of cyclones from

    http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/DCBasics.cfm

    Jake, steady on, i like your enthusiasm, but you young'uns......
    put your boss on the the link above.

    If there is to be a group buy, then we need to iron out a few details
    -A bit one is where do we ship them to?
    If they go to the place with the most orders, say brissie, then my cost goes up by the shipping to melbourne
    If they go to the place in the middle, what's it called?, sydney or somesuch, then more people pay to on-ship but pay less.
    Wherever they go the folks who don't have shipping-on charges can make up for it by handling the import/collection/distribution side of things. that would be paperwork, customs and collecting money (people could pay ed direct but customs will want one person to deal with.)
    Secondly - who wants one (or two).
    C'mon people, who wants one?

  16. #90
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    I know those long links are useful but they make the page hard to read

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