Thread: New Camera Suggestions?

Earlier this year I bought a Sony Alpha A6000 with a Tamron lens which I've bee very pleased with, though as you've said Trevor, John & also Frank have wet one desire for a bigger lens...Here's a google search on the Sony camera plus Kogan have them on special for just over the $700.... Cheers, crowie

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r...digital+camera

https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/sony-al...50mm-lens-kit/

I use the Nikon D3200-with nikkor lenses and absolutely love the combination... Nikon has a newer version of the 3200, they are very affordable, and you can get a combo with a decent lens for around $500-700 especially if you're willing to take a couple years old model. I've found Nikon to be very user friendly and it gives great control over the current aspects of your pictures while automating the others (such as aperture mode, bulb, iso etc)

Right now at b&h photo you can get the d3200 with 18-55 kit lens for $450

You can get the camera, 18-55 and 55-200 for $500

And with either set you can add on the 55-300 for $250 right now, my suggested lens though (especially if you're photographing birds) would be the 70-300mm gold nikkor

Canon Sx60 recent addition here having seen friends pics with his Sx40 we were very impressed especially with the zoom although at full zoom it needs to be stable These are Dave's photos using the Sx40.IMG_3157.jpgIMG_6216.jpg0703 Sea Eagle, Yellow Waters.jpg

There's allsorts of good stuff out there nowadays and at reasonable prices.
It's just my opinion but I'd say go "Back To The Future" and get a good second hand Canon 1000D with a 300mm lens.
Great colour, loads of features and easy to use.

I've got some gear but more often than not I still grab that 1000D.
I used it on the last pictures I put on my Scamander thread of the church.

It's a great little unit.

Cheers mate
Trev.

These days quality of a the image is less determined by the camera body (pixels, features etc) and more and more by the quality of the camera lens.
Cameras with interchangeable lenses will then allow you to extend/upgrade the camera simply by purchasing other/better lens.
Even a 6 megapixel camera can take advantage of lens upgrades whereas just doubling the number pixels doesn't do that much for the quality of the image.
If you want to be able to upgrade lens(es) in a few years time this means purchasing from well known reliable brands that is going to stick around for a few years.

You might find this thread useful https://www.woodworkforums.com/f122/digital-slr-advice-help-136377

My go to lens is a Sigma 17-70 2.8-4. macro HSM lens.

Link

Thank you all, Crowie, Austinmatties, Wheelinround, Repliconics, BobL and Grumpy John.

I am not in a hurry to buy so can sit down with all the info you have given me and do some research.

Planing on being back in this part of the forum, early in the New Year, with some interesting and worthwhile shots.

Thank you again.
Cheers, Fred

I advise anyone considering purchasing a kit consisting of a Nikon / Cannon etc. camera with something like a 28 - 70mm and a 70 - 300mm lense kit is to buy the body only, and purchase a lense like a 28 - 300mm from a good brand such as Tamron, Sigma or the camera maker. Time and time again, you will have the wrong lense on from the kit, such as having the small lense on when an interesting bird etc. happens along, or the big lense on when you come across a great landscape opportunity. The frustration will soon lead you to buying a more versatile lense, and you will end up with 2 unused lenses which are not easily sold, as many people come to the same realisation. Also, the quality of the kit lenses is usually well below that of a more versatile lense.

I am particularly interested in bird photography, and my most used lense on a Nikon D800 is a Sigma 50 - 500mm, and a 28 - 300mm Nikon lense for general purpose use. I also have a 70 - 200mm F2.8 Nikon lense which is superb.
As for which camera, Nikon and Canon are the most common, and a choice a bit like Holden Vs Falcon or Mercedes Vs BMW. Fuji and Sony are also well respected, and there are so many models available it can be a bit daunting making a choice. Have a good play with any intended camera, paying particular attention to the weight and feel of the camera, and the ease of reaching the controls with an outstretched finger.
Note that the first photo you take with a digital camera will cost you say $500, if you take one hundred photos, the cost per photo is $5.00 etc. I am at about 1 cent each, and going down rapidly! Also, keep in mind the storage requirements and back-up of the photos you wish to keep.
Hope you get a nice set-up soon and take heaps of great shots to get your money's worth out of the hobby.
Alan...

I have s few zoom lenses but my favourite lens is my fixed 100mm F2.8 Canon Macro. No good for bird shots but otherwise a wonderful portrait and intermediate scenery lens not to mention the Macro. . One time in Venice the only zoom I had with me broke down and all I had left to use was the Macro. You had to work a bit more for the shots but I found it forced me to think a lot more about where I was standing and not just to fill the frame but also with regards the lighting. End result was a much more thoughtful set of shots.

That's what I liked about the old 50mm fixed lenses we used to teach with - kids had - these days with zooms all the students just think about filling the frame and fire away.

I notice that most of the lenses that come as a kit with a new camera seem to be 3.5 to 5.6. Most advanced users seem to refer to a 2.8 lenses. Is this where it changes from the rank amature like me to the more advanced user as the 2.8 lenses appear to be quite a bit more expensive.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

I notice that most of the lenses that come as a kit with a new camera seem to be 3.5 to 5.6. Most advanced users seem to refer to a 2.8 lenses. Is this where it changes from the rank amature like me to the more advanced user as the 2.8 lenses appear to be quite a bit more expensive.

The larger the diameter of the lens the lower the F number and the more difficult it is to make so that it produces a sharp image.
Larger diameter collects more light so it is possible to use a higher shutter speed if you want to stop the action or go for a narrow depth of field.
Cost of maintaining construction quality rises exponentially with reduction in F number which is why they cost so much.

Occasionally I take pics for my DIL (last Photo_ Brass Band.
These were taken at a concert at a dim tavern, 3200 ISO, Canon L series F4. The F2.8 was double the price!!!!!
170 shots - about 40 duds and 30 decent ones.

170 shots - about 40 duds and 30 decent ones. What about the other 100?
Nice sharp pics Bob.
Cheers Frank.

Originally Posted by elderly

170 shots - about 40 duds and 30 decent ones. What about the other 100?
Nice sharp pics Bob.
Cheers Frank.

The duds are mainly when there is too much movement like this - low light means slow shutter speed.
I usually shoot 3-4 in rapid succession and hope I catch the movers and shaker sort of mid stride.


The odd dud is caused by exposure being way out - I use spot metering when selecting specify focus points and it just take one glint of musical instrument to enter the spot and thros the exposure out.

The 100 others are duplicates or so-so composition wise.