iPhone tripod mount bracket

**BobL** · 31st January 2010, 12:07 AM

Normally I get the better camera and SWMBO gets the better mobile, but once I saw how much fun SWMBO was having with her new iPhone I had to get one , especially after work swung a deal with a provider to get them for half price with a $15 a month charge with decent download quota.

This is the first time I have had a phone that can record half reasonable video so one thing I want to be able to do is take video of myself doing some woody or metally activity, which means putting the phone on some sort of a stand.

So here it is, my iPhone tripod mount bracket.
Front:

Back

Front with iPhone:

Back with iPhone:

The basic frame is cut from 25 x 3 mm Square ally tube. The tube is ripped and open mitres cut on a ww TS with ally cutting blade (ally rubbed with wax for lube).

The mitres were heated with a MAP torch before bending and left open deliberately so the frame is lightly sprung. The naked phone will sit in the frame but the sprung frame grips the phone better if it inserted into one of those rubberised protective covers as shown here.

The frame is screwed to a 12 mm thick ally base using 1/8" brass counter sunk screws and the base has a std 1/4 tripod mount thread so that it fits any standard tripod.

I could have spent a lot more time filing and finishing it off but mostly it's gonna be used in my shed so a light sanding and rub with steel wool was as far as I went.

Cheers

**fubar** · 31st January 2010, 10:19 AM

nice one bobL

question when you heat the ally is there any indication of when it is ok to bend as my results have been very varied usually ending up with splits or complete breaks as either too hot or too cold

**BobL** · 31st January 2010, 10:31 AM

Thanks fubar.

Originally Posted by fubar

question when you heat the ally is there any indication of when it is ok to bend as my results have been very varied usually ending up with splits or complete breaks as either too hot or too cold[/IMG]

If you do it at night, momentarily move the flame away and if you can see the whole bend glowing faintly red, this means it is read to bend. During the day I do it by testing the bend, keep heating it and keep gently but firmly testing the bend - as soon as it is hot enough it just seems to go. Make sure you have a glove of some kind on (I use welding gloves) because it conducts heat like crazy. Also if you require strength don't cool it direct from bend heat with water or it will go brittle. If you really want it to be strong it should be cooled slowly by continuing to heat after it is bent and slowly move the flame away from the bend over a couple of minutes and then let it cool in air by itself.

**fubar** · 31st January 2010, 12:21 PM

thanks for that i had also been cooling quickly so thats good to know

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