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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    toronto, canada
    Posts
    61

    Default 8k (6k-10k) stone - need your help. Thank you

    I need your help with a 8k (6k-10k) stone.


    My setup, so far is 400-1000-2000-4000 Suzuki-Ya stone described here https://suzukitool.com/tools/japanes...nthetic-stones


    No idea who is really making them.


    AND here https://fabulalignarius.wordpress.com/tag/pm-v11-test/


    Before them, I use to have Chosera line-up, which, although I loved the edge they were leaving, were wearing too much, especially after sharpening carving chisels (where you have different pressure points on the stone...), and were not fast enough for sharpening in-situ - on the job. So I sold them.


    Otherwise I simply LOVED Chosera. Seriously. But I wouldn't buy again a Chosera 10k as I find it too expensive for what it offers.


    I am a traditional woodworker, using exclusively hand tools, with a strong tendency toward Japanese style and tools. I do quit a bit of relief and architectural Carving - my chisels being Addis (Sheffield) and chip carving were I use knives. For marquetry I use a variety of other knives. I also need this stone to be good for finishing my kitchen knives and the 2 razors we use (me and my son). Those kitchen knives - Sollingen, made in Germany during the War are really tough to sharpen...and is not stainless-steel.


    I work 95% of the time in cherry, walnut and butternut. Occasionally in chestnut and poplar. Mostly medium-soft woods.


    Tools and metal I use:
    I have a variety of Western planes and chisels with old Sheffield steel (Warranted Cast steel)
    I have plans to replace all of them with Japanese planes/chisels and/or PM-V11 made by Veritas/Lee Valley.
    I already have 4 different 3/16" thick PM-V11
    I also have 2 Japanes planes: a Dai-naoshi and a 60mm.
    Once in a while I am making myself a Japanese style plane, using PM-V11, and than, I need to work with very hard woods - Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry).
    From my experience, sharpening carving chisels, because of the different way you have to sharpen them, is putting most of the pressure in the middle of the stone, giving, in time a hollowness that I do not have the time to correct it at work/when I need it.


    I got the Suzuki stones to be able to deal with PM-V11 and blue steel without wearing as much as Chosera.


    My budget is limited to $240 AUD.
    My hope is to find a stone as good as Chosera, offering the same keenness/smoothness but, in order of my priorities:
    1. Keenness of the Edge
    2. Wear Less and Less Maintenance

    3. Have the feel of a Natural Stone
    4. Speed



    People strongly recommended Naniwa Snow White. But I am a bit afraid - I do not know its characteristics. Yet some other guys swear that Fuji 8k is better than Snow White.
    I am rather thinking that Suehiro Gokumyo 10k hopefully is closer - but again, I do not know anything about it and is really very little information/reviews.
    Than, some other guys recommended the "New" Superstone from Naniwa - S-480 - Yet some other guys like better the older Naniwa Traditional T-380.
    No - I am not a Naniwa fan at all. My tendency would be to look into Natural stones - and here people are recommending Yellow Coticule and Arkansas. Which I strongly consider.
    Recently I discovered a stone made with natural stone powder, fired in the kiln , resulting in a harder product that performs similar to natural stones - Hishiboshi Karasu 9k - maybe something like this will be the answer...


    PS In the future I will also get a 12k-20k.. but I cannot afford all at once.

    Thank you all

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Bellingen
    Posts
    587

    Default

    Mate, welcome to the forum!

    You came out swinging that's for sure!

    If your budget is tight.. (no idea what 19000 Japanese yen will get you over there in Canada) why not look at cast iron lapping plates with diamond abrasives. You can get into the finer grits quite cheaply and it ticks a lot of your boxes re: low maintence, low cost, keen edge etc.

    Some of the locals here are better versed in cast iron/diamond lapping plates. I'm sure they will have a perspective on it.

    Dont let your budget hold you up. Waterstones are lovely to use but they are not the only way to getting an edge. If your short of cash, maybe look at some of the other systems and revisit the waterstones later. Their are a lot of economical choices out there and they all end up pretty much with the same results.

    I now cheat with sharpening as I'm too busy to treat it as a seperate hobby ( I probably would if I had the time... It's quite a peaceful task) Power stropping delivers pretty unbelievable results rapidly. It's super cheap as well.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,826

    Default

    Check out Sigma. They are also vitrified stone. There is a 10K and a 13K available. Tools from Japan stock them.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,130

    Default

    I'd go with derek's recommendation. The snow white is a very good stone, the feel is one step less nice than the chosera 10k and the stone is one step coarser than the chosera 10k. I think the snow white is probably the best 10k stone.

    Gokumyo stones are very hard, and you might find them to load somewhat, but they would be more durable. I had the 20k for a little while with razors, and it was a very fine stone, but there are ways to get the same results elsewhere. That said, you certainly couldn't wear one out quickly, not even lapping it all the time.

    You're sharpening a wide range of things, but of the carving tools, oilstones are my favorite sharpening method for them by far.

    If I was married to modern steel for plane irons and vintage carving tools, I'd have two stones for carving tools (a soft arkansas or washita and a true hard arkansas) and a leather strop, and two stones for modern steel (something like a 1-2k stone and a finisher).

    Those vintage carving tools were made to be used with novaculite and hone slates, and they (especially novaculites) are much nicer to use sharpening them.

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