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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
    Posts
    4,330

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodhog View Post
    ... new cutters have machining rough and grinding marks. I flatten and polish the back of chisels and plane irons first. These machining marks may if deep enough become the toothy edge as the bevel is sharpened.
    More specifically in relation to turning tools, this definitely applies to the flutes on most new turning gouges, with just a few exceptions like D-way flutes that come polished ready to go.

    Grinding out the flute milling striations then buffing to a polished finish does make a difference to the edge in terms of its durability.

    Similar with the face edge on turning scrapers. The burr that is raised and left by most turners on scrapers is more durable if the top face is polished to a fine grit.

    The Unicorn method will quickly polish the working face edge on scrapers and is ideal for polishing inside the flute of gouges.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,122

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    Welcome to the Forum, Jay. I suggest that you do exactly as Chief Tiff says. Sharp is a moving target - you think something is sharp, then you find you can do better, often a lot better.

    When you feel that you are not improving with the sandpaper method - often called "scary sharp" - then I suggest that you read up on and extend to the "unicorn method". But not yet; keep things simple.

    Then in a year's time you should be pretty good at sharpening and start to worry about the cost of sandpaper - then you will probably move on.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Sydneyt
    Age
    27
    Posts
    10

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    Hi all,

    Finally got the system working last night - lockdown has locked delays in shipping etc.

    Big thanks to Surry Hills Glass for cutting me some custom pieces of glass - three pieces so I can have three different grits on the table at once. I was able to flatten & regrind the bevels on some heavily worn chisels & sharpen my new plane iron for my No4.

    After sharpening at 600, 1200 & 2000 grits followed by a strop, I've been getting silky smooth shavings now and it easily passes the arm-hair test.

    Thanks to everyone in this thread. Really helpful

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