Thread: Advice on what to buy please

Originally Posted by fletty

TN,
As you have probably gathered from all of the knowledgeable replies above, you have opened a can of worms. Everyone above has given you good advice but all that has done is let you know that there are as many good methods to sharpen as there are woodworkers. I have a set of LN chisels and agree with Derek about NOT learning to sharpen on them. They are VERY hard and sharpening can become very disheartening when the results are slow. Where are you in NSW? PM me and, if it is convenient, you can try sharpening with any of the gear I've acquired for my failed and successful sharpening techniques.
fletty

Greenie for such an offer bummer won't let me got to share it around.

Hey TN, Just read through all the answers, and even though there are a lot of different opinions, they have all given you some excellent advice. I doubt I could tell you any thing better, except to say it might be helpful to study up on technique. For example, read up about the subject. Leonard lee's book "The complete guide to sharpening" is an excellent read and very in depth. Even grab a couple of video's by Rob Cosman or David Charlesworth. They can be mail ordered from places like, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks Australia | Home or Home - Supreme Tool Sales Lots of luck.

I would have to agree with Derek also, but as for the Japanese ceramic stones, I've gone through the Shapton Pro series (1,000, 5,000, 8,000) and probably wouldn't go back. My 8,000 stone is now a Sigma and I've ordered a Bester 1,000 and Sigma 120 for my coarse stones so can let you know how those compare when they arrive.

Best,
Kane

Kane, the stones you are getting, seem to keep popping up, in my enquiries. I'd be interested to know how they perform. Please post update when you get them

Ian (TN)

If you don't mind some extra expense, I was just watching a marketed product called, "Work Sharp 3000" which is a quick and dry method for chisels, plane irons, wood turning gouges incl. curved. It appears to be very good, check out Sydney Tools. Kev

I like camelia oil as it dries on the tools and prevents rusting many people recommend wiping down tools after use with a rag soaked in oil to get rid of sweat and oils that will rust your tools in no time

I agree with Derek about getting your practice done on chisels that don't matter first

When I can afford a tormek I will get one but until then I will be very careful on the high speed with Aluminium oxide wheels and frequent cooling in water. make sure you stop short of the cutting edge as this will blue quickly

currently my setup is

Grinder followed by
400 diamond plate
1000 Diamond plate
1000 Japanese waterstone
6000 Japanese waterstone
Hone on leather belt with metal polish

I flatten my water stones on on the Diamond plates frequently. I am not convinced of the need to polish or hone higher than 6000. I can slice paper with the results. It taken a few years of of an on practice to get to this point. Prior to this i outsourced my sharpening. When I get some Plane blades that are hard enough to warrant it I will get some stones that are more appropriate.

Andrew

I have used G96 gun cleaner / lube for 11 yrs with no problem, it is thin like wd40,used by most armed forces around the world, which by the way , have you wiped your oiled chisels down before you start to use them, check the color on a white rag, this will tell you if it penetrates enough to protect them. What I am saying is I don't beleive it is that critical, as long as it protects. If I leave any fresh cut steel on my bench today, it will have started to rust by tomorrow arvo, as I live close to the beach, I always sprayed it on my portable metal lathe, and it was still in mint condition when I sold it. Kev

I went to Fletty's place today after his generous offer, to sample all his sharpening options. Thanks mate, you are a fountain of knowledge, and a real nice bloke too. It was great to catch up for some quality shed time (and the odd zen moment or 2).

I was fortunate to be able to try a DMT diamond stone, multiple grades of Shaptons stones, shary sharp options, Vertias MKII honing guide, and a Tormek. That's pretty much the whole gammut (well, everything I was considering anyway - I know there are a million others out there).

Firstly, those that were/are concerned a sharpening newbie like myself would wreck my new Lie Nielsen chisels, will be pleased to know that the sample chisels I took along that I've been sharpening free hand up till now, were within 1-2 degrees already, and none were skewed. So I must have some reasonable skills I suppose

So it looks like I won't be taking the advice to put such lovely tools away for 12 months. Sure, I know there's still room for improvement, but it would appear I won't really be starting from step 1.

The Tormek impressed (I'll be sourcing a T-7 shortly), and scary sharp, on float glass using the Vertias MK II is a good way to get a decent finish grind and secondary bevel (one that is good enough for me).

oh, and I finally found out what the deal with Camelia Oil is. Looks like it puts a nice protective coating on the chisels that doesn't immediately wipe off (unlike WD-40 etc). I'll be trying to source some of that now too.

Thanks to all for your input and suggestions.

Thanks especially to Fletty - a truely nice bloke happy to share his time and experience (and tools).

TN.

I trust what Paul Sellers has to say about sharpening chisels

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki8tt-VjwqI