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  1. #1
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    Apr 2019
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    Default basic setup, what do i need?

    hi everyone.

    i Dont really use many hand tools as just a hobby woodworker, but i've just splurged a little and bought a set of the Narex cryo chisels. i'm trying to work out what i'll need to go along with them to keep them sharp. I dont really want to buy a tormex system if i can avoid it


    so from my basic understanding i will definitely need:
    a honing guide

    from there i can either go:
    diamond plates
    or
    water stones


    diamond plates:
    seem to just need the plate
    grits dont seem to go as high
    depending on size cheaper option

    water stones:
    need the stones
    higher grits then diamond plates
    need a diamond flattening plate to keep them in good condition
    more expensive initial setup


    1. other then what i've listed above is there a reason to choose one over another?
    2. can i do most of the sharpening with the above gear or do i actually need something like a tormex.
    3. are there recommended grits i should be looking at



    https://www.timbecon.com.au/narex-se...abinet-chisels

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Read this thread then make up your mind.

    The Unicorn method

    Hoey

  4. #3
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    Default

    My system was 2x DMT DuoSharp (XCoarse/Coarse and Fine/XFine) and a 12,000 Shapton to finish. Quick, easy, low maintenance and soooo shiny Oh yeah and sharp enough to shave with as well.

  5. #4
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    Default

    For a hundred years, all my old man and I have used is carborundum stones, they’re cheap, and they work. My advice is start with these, use them for a couple of years, then venture into the realm of diamonds, you’ll have a much better feel for using them.

  6. #5
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    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
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    Default

    Do you have a grinder with which to put a hollow grind on your chisels?

    If so, you can get by with a 1000 grit diamond plate.

    I started with a 400 and 1000 DMT diamond plate. I found that with a hollow grind I could go straight to the 1000 grit plate without an issue as you remove so little metal. My course plate hardly gets used, and given what I know now, wouldn't have bought it with hindsight.

    I used to strop on a piece of hardwood with whatever buffing compound I had, but after a couple of years splashed out on an 8000 ceramic waterstone. Both give great results.

    Oh, and you don't need a honing guide. If you want one, no problem, but freehand sharpening really isn't that hard a skill to pick up.

  7. #6
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    Oct 2019
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Default

    I would add that a convenient plate-holder is really necessary. If you have all your plates set up and accessible you will tend to go for them without fuss. If they are buried in a drawer and need to be taken out and attached to something, then all packed up and put away later, you will avoid it / put it off.

    Ie, think about your overall workflow.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
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    Default

    I was taught freehand sharpening of wood carving tools with waterstones and honing on a box card strop.
    Three little things you need:
    1. A 10X magnifier such as geologists use. You must be able to see the edge clearly to evaluate your progress.
    2. A black felt marker to color the edge. Then you can see EXACTLY where the metal is coming off.
    3. Some means of measuring the stock bevel angles. No guessing if you want reproducibility.
    I have a small protractor device, originally meant for measuring drill bit tip angles.

  9. #8
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    Default

    thanks for the unicorn method link.

    chisels turned up, i'd say there sharp but not shiny/shaving sharp so will need a final hone i think.

    i do happen to have one of those stand style light and magnifying combos and a bevel measuring tool.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Adelaide Hills, South Australia
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    4,311

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Robson Valley View Post

    1. A 10X magnifier such as geologists use. You must be able to see the edge clearly to evaluate your progress.
    All three of those small and inexpensive requirements recommended by RV are invaluable, IME, regardless of your sharpening method.

    And of those, the 10x lens has been the most invaluable for me. So much so that I always carry one with me so it is readily available whenever I need it in the workshop, bush, men's shed, backyard or kitchen.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  11. #10
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    What did you end up buying? I'm the bling of these two stones, one being a combo stone

    Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
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    Default

    Side note: those Shinto saw rasps are fantastic as well. Such a simple concept...

  13. #12
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    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
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    Default

    The rasps are awesome.

    I'm at the disadvantage of being just around the corner from JTA which isn't healthy on the wallet.

  14. #13
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    Default

    Is there any issues with going from a 3000 grit to 12,000? Is there a need to have say a 5 or 6000 grit in between?

    Sent from my Nokia 5.3 using Tapatalk

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Side note: those Shinto saw rasps are fantastic as well. Such a simple concept...
    Link please?

  16. #15
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    Mar 2018
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    Sydney
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    469

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    Link please?
    Flat Files | Japanese Tools Australia

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