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  1. #1
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    Default New toy, a pullshave. Now how do i sharpen it?

    Hi all,
    I just bought myself a Veritas Pullshave for my upcoming attempt at a Sam Maloof style rocking chair.
    Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement

    It arrived today, its a really nice feeling tool but as with all new bladed tools it needs to be sharpened. According to the pamphlet that came with the pullshave, the back has already been lapped to within a poofteenth of a bees whatsit & the primary bevel has been cut to 35deg. They recommend to polish the primary bevel then go straight to a secondary bevel. The radius on the blade is 2 1/2"
    If you click on the 'instr' link for the pullshave on their web site u can read all the info i have except for a small flier regarding the prelapping of the blades.
    I'd much prefer sharpening this blade by hand than by machine & i can probably do a reasonable job freehand but i'd much prefer some sort of holding jig but i can't really picture what it would look like or how it would work. All i can think of is some sort of a threaded rod with a ball on the end mounted to the blade at the desired angle. That would allow rocking the blade thru its curve while pulling it across a sharpening stone.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.
    Heres a couple of pics of the blade itself;

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  3. #2
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    Default

    it just looks to be a simple radial grind, do you have any grinders, bench or whetstone, if so find the radius of the blade then make a jig to suit, mount this in a suitable position relative to your sharpening stone, introduce this to a fine to middle stone and find the angle, then gently does it, finish with a buffing compound to a razor edge
    G'day I'm Dave!

  4. #3
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    Default

    I don't have a sharpening grinder or wetstones tho i am planning on buying some at a later date. For now its going to be sandpaper stuck to a sheet of glass.
    What would the jig to hold the blade look like? Never having any experence with blade sharpening i'm having trouble imagining what the jig would look like. The jig would have to be able to roll in some sort of an arc in order for the full curve of the blade to stay at the same angle wouldn't it?

  5. #4
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    G'day mate, nothing complex, it's just a matter of being able to hold the thing at the right angle, possibly just a simple rod bolted through the centre pivot point may suffice, with practice and care you should be able to "grind" an even finish, I would however look into a grinder at some stage then look into sharpening jigs, there are a lot on the net.......this is just one that I found after a simple glance,.........Sharpening Wood Turning Tools: make a jig ............... it does not deal with your particular shape but you get the idea of what I'm talking about, any of these may be adapted to suit a variety of tools including yours, they dont have to be flash or expensive just practical.....
    G'day I'm Dave!

  6. #5
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    Default

    Thanks Dave, thats kind of what i had been tossing round in my head. A simple threaded bolt with locking nuts at the pivot point with a ball or a rounded point at the end of the rod.

  7. #6
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    I shot a quick email to Veritas regarding how to sharpen this blade, they responded quickly with this email;

    "Thank you for contacting Veritas Tools Inc.

    Unfortunately we do not have a jig specifically for radiused blades.

    The blades can be sharpened free hand on a stone; the technique involves pulling the blade towards you length ways and pivoting the blade as you go. (Image attached)
    The blade can also be placed in a vise and a sharpening stone or slip stone can be used along the length of the blade, this time the stone is pivoted.

    It is a good idea to make a template from the new blade so you have a reference for the original radius. This can be used in the future to draw the radius on the blade as a guide for regrinding.

    Please let us know if you have any further questions.

    George Hammond.
    Veritas Tools Inc."


    Surely tho this would be a wildly inaccurate method, how would you get an accurate micro-bevel? Also since the face of the tool is curved i'd imagine that its pretty important for the curve in the blade to match the curve of the face, won't that be pretty difficult by freehand???

  8. #7
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    yeah although I wouldn't do it this way I'm not about to say what they state to be incorrect, for the majority of the touch ups place the blade on it's back on a sheet of emery or very fine sandpaper and holding it flat work in circles until an edge is attained, if a chip occurs then I'm afraid you will have to deal with grinding/sharpening the radius, not easy, the only way I would do it is with a jig, I have the machinery to make a template which then guides the blade on the grinder, without this specialised machinery I would be very careful in retouching the radius, a jig is called for and plenty of practice
    G'day I'm Dave!

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