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Thread: Blade/Chisel Honing Guides
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8th June 2004, 11:51 AM #1
Blade/Chisel Honing Guides
I'm looking to purchase a blade/chisel honing guide.
What should I look for and what are just gimmicks?
Recommendations appreciated :confused:______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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8th June 2004 11:51 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th June 2004, 11:58 AM #2
How much do you want to spend?
If not much, then go for one of the grey metal ones that you can get from a hardware store for about 15 bucks.
If you want to spend more, then go for the Veritas. Carbatec, MIK and Timbecon all stock them.
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8th June 2004, 12:21 PM #3
Craig
Dollars are not the real concern, accuracey, ease of use, and quality are more important______________
Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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8th June 2004, 12:36 PM #4
Go the Veritas then. I don't own one, but I believe that you can also use it in a grinder rest.
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8th June 2004, 12:43 PM #5
The problem with the cheap one's is the way they hold the chisel. They grip the sides. The chisel thickness in most cases is greater than the slot in the jig. I gave up on those and bought the Veritas jig, it holds with a brass screw on the back of the chisel - works well
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8th June 2004, 01:38 PM #6
I purchased the Deluxe Honing Guide from Timbecon.
It can hold wide blades and has a wide roller for good support.
Works well and is reasonably priced.
Honing Guide
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8th June 2004, 03:27 PM #7
I use a stanley guide
what I like
- it has a wide wheel so it is stable even with narrow chisels. The combination of a narrow wheel and a narrow chisel promotes rocking from side to side (compare a bicycle to a tricycle, the blade is the front wheel).
- It clamps from the top so it won't deform wide thin blades, and it is guaranteed flat across its width.
- cheap and available at Mitre 10 and Bunnies
What I don't like
- it is difficult to get the blade perfectly straight in the jig, and keep it that way during sharpening (this won't occur with side clamps, but then you have the flat problem)
hope this makes you choise more 'educated'Great minds discuss ideas,
average minds discuss events,
small minds discuss people
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8th June 2004, 03:42 PM #8Originally Posted by Sprog
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8th June 2004, 03:59 PM #9
I've had the Veritas unit (which doesn't look like the Timbecon design, incidentally, Craig) for about 18 months. It's got a good, wide roller so it tracks nice and straight and doesn't wobble. Its big advantage is that it comes with a jig that lets you set up the blade or chisel to a precise angle (the jig has pre-sets at 15, 20, 25, 30 and 35 degrees).
I've found it really useful and quick to set up. Spent a couple of hours over the weekend sharpening a load of plane blades and chisels using the Veritas guide.
Col
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8th June 2004, 04:09 PM #10Originally Posted by Driver
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8th June 2004, 04:54 PM #11Novice
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I would go for the Veritas kit (the guide and the "other bit" that sets the angle). A significant advantage is that it has an adjustment, which is difficult to describe in words, but which permits the selection of a second bevel of exactly 1, 2, 3 or 4 degrees.
Michael O’M
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9th June 2004, 02:42 PM #12
Thank you all - will go for the Veritas one
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Mark
They only call it a rort if they're not in on it
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9th June 2004, 03:15 PM #13
A bit late on this one, but I've also got the timbecon deluxe one. Or should I say had the timbecon deluxe one. Not sure if anyoen else has had this problem but the roller got all gummied up with scary sharp water/metaldust and stopped rolling all of a sudden. Unfortunately I was going like the clappers at the time and hined a nice flat part on the roller, which is now useless.
I cant work out how to get the roler out to clean it. Keep that in mind!Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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11th June 2004, 11:25 AM #14
Glen Bridger read my comments above on the Veritas honing guide and asked me by PM to comment on what method and equipment I use for initial sharpening etc.
The answer is that I use the Scary Sharp method. To cut a primary bevel on anything that is fairly blunt (old chisels, for example, or a blade with a serious nick in it), I use the Veritas guide to set the angle and then grind an edge using a coarse diamond stone. This cuts quickly and evenly.
After that, I use sandpaper, stuck to a sheet of 10 mm thick plate glass, in progressive grits of: 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200 and 2000.
For re-honing, I continue to use the Veritas guide and polish the back and bevel with (usually) the final three grits above.
This system works quite well.
Recently, I bought a couple of water stones: 1200 and 6000 grit. I've used them very little so far so I don't have anything useful to add to the debate on the difference between scary sharp and water stones. (Work in progress!).
Line Lefty: re your problems with the roller getting gunged up: this can happen with any system where a roller is coming into contact with water. I have found that it pays to be scrupulous about drying the roller after use and spraying the spindle and bearings with a blast of WD40 or similar.
Regards
Col
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11th June 2004, 11:48 AM #15this can happen with any system where a roller is coming into contact with water"I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."