Thread: Bought a Diamond Plate - Any Reason to Keep Waterstone?

Nah ... just send it to me, Chris

Seriously, the finest M-Power diamond plate I am aware of is 1000 grit. Now I begin sharpening at 1000 grit (on waterstones). 1000 grit is a coarse stone. I think that you would be disappointed to finish on this. Starting on it, now - that is a good move. Or strop like mad on green compound for 5 minutes

Regards from Perth

Derek

If that is indeed the grit you have, it's way too coarse for finishing. I went DMT in 4 grades from XCoarse to XFine but still kept a 12000 Shapton to finish on. The XFine gave a perfectly usable edge, I just like shiny things

EDIT: Just looked it up and the XFine DMT is 1200 mesh (9 micron), which converts to roughly P2200 according to these guys Conversion Chart Abrasives - Grit Sizes | FINE TOOLS or P2500 according to the sandpaper man, and I could have stopped there if I wanted to. Grit size comparisons can get very confusing.

Depending on the quality and grit of stone you have will answer your question. I'm with Derek and have stones that go up to 12000 grit so my water stones will stay with me.

I use diamond stones for initial sharpen before moving to water stones.

My diamond stones are also used to flatten the water stones. However keep an eye on how flat they are, as my m power stone has started to bow slightly so I no longer use it.

I'm slightly different than the others. I can't say I have used my waterstones in years other than sharpening Japanese kitchen knives. I think you will want to go finer than 1k though.

I usually finish on an extra fine EzeLap hone that is very well broken in and then power strop with green chrome. It leaves a keen edge and I can get there quickly. Sometimes I will go up to a DMT 8k diamond plate and then hand strop but there is a limit to how fine you're going to get an edge on the less exotic steels. Your brand of tools may differ.

Diamond powders on cast iron lapping plates will get you into the very fine grits if you're interested in going finer. From memory, Derek did a lot of research into that (going back a few years)?

As much as I enjoy the sharpening process, I much prefer to be using the tools while working. I find the diamond systems to be much faster, less mess and just as good in most cases.
I would not get rid of your waterstones though.

The above is just my 2c worth.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

... I went DMT in 4 grades from XCoarse to XFine but still kept a 12000 Shapton to finish on. The XFine gave a perfectly usable edge, I just like shiny things
....
Grit size comparisons can get very confusing.

I took a slight deviation from Elan's path:

• DMT XCourse and Course = largely used to establish the primary bevel, and to flatten the water stones,
• Shapton water stones - 1,000 - 5,000 and 10,000 grit = real sharpening and polishing.

I rarely use a wheel.