Thread: Cbn

Yes that should be fine. You mean too different brands I assume

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Thanks Dave one will be a wood cut the other A Vermac as Icant get a matched pair in eather brand due to out of stock problems .

You'll be able to give us a comparison.

I think your set up will be nicely balanced regardless of brand

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Just trying to buy local from a forum sponsor .

Originally Posted by wedgtail

I have a six inch bench grinder it old but a good one . I would like to change to cbn wheels , one at 80 and the other 240 . Vermac have a 240 available to buy today but no 80 in stock and wood cut wheel is available in 80 can I mix and match the 2 on the same grinder.

The brand mix makes no difference. The wheels are all designed and manufactured in a very similar way.

More importantly, what do you plan to grind? Flat work tools or turning tools? If flatwork, I advise that the wheels are square and not round shouldered (radiused). If for the lathe, then get the radiused wheels. If for flatwork, the 80 grit is good for heavy grinding, but the 240 is likely to be too slow and will make the grinding vulnerable to burning the steel. I use a 180 for flatwork for nearly everything. For turning I would look at an even higher grit (360) if you plan to use it off the grinder.

My experience began here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...ningSetUp.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek

Good to see round v's square come up.

I hear some say sqaure no matter what. What advantage do you see / experience with the radiused?

I too have been contemplating a higher grit. Will che k out your link now

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Thanks for the reply Derek I did read your post on the ultimate set up before i posted here . I will be mainly sharpening turning tools I have the Tormeck jigs already including the bench grinder jig so hopefully the wheels will be my last expense .

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Derek

Good to see round v's square come up.

I hear some say sqaure no matter what. What advantage do you see / experience with the radiused?

I too have been contemplating a higher grit. Will che k out your link now

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Dave, I was influenced by this video when I considered a CBN wheel when I first began looking at them ...



The ability to round the sides of turning chisels made sense.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Sorry, Derek, but I can't agree with you on this one.

The D-Way guy should:

1. use a tip holding tool for sharpening those small cutting tips. Jim Carroll sells them for around $15 and are the only way to go on the Tormek. These little tips will endure heat quickly on the CBN wheel which, in my mind, is a shaping, not sharpening tool. I have a square 240 CBN wheel from Vicmarc and it works a treat.

2. If you want to sharpen a turning scraper, use the flat plate on the top of the Tormek wheel and your body will not get in the way. That's the main advantage of the Tormek system - you are able to set up to grinder up both ways ie wheel going away, wheel coming at the tool.

3. I've made a few of my scrapers less aggressive for a pupil that tends to be heavy handed - negatively raked scrapers which I first shaped on the top-side on the CBN and then sharpen in seconds on the Tormek by grinding the front edge.

I see no advantage at all in using a radiused edge on a CBN wheel. There is no repeatability. A bit for a Sorby multi-tipped hollowing tool would be ruined in seconds or less using the method shown in the video.

Jeff

Hi Jeff

All good. I am primarily a flat woodworker and somewhat of a wood-be turner, so I was impressed with what looked a good idea. And that's why you know better than I! As it turned out, I changed my radiused wheels for straight wheels.

.... the CBN wheel which, in my mind, is a shaping, not sharpening tool.

That's what I maintain - and why I do not recommend high grit regrading on the Tormek, especially for plane blades and bench chisels. What is the point - you will need to hone them anyway. For those that use a lathe chisel off the grinder, I see a CBN of 350 grit to be more useful than a 180-240 grit. Your thoughts?

If you want to sharpen a turning scraper, use the flat plate on the top of the Tormek wheel and your body will not get in the way. That's the main advantage of the Tormek system - you are able to set up to grinder up both ways ie wheel going away, wheel coming at the tool.

That's similar to what I have always done - except I now have the flat Tormek plate on a Tormek tool rest on a dry grinder (with CBN wheels).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, you are no doubt right about having say a 240 grit CBN wheel backed up by something like a 360 grit wheel.

I must admit that Tormek sharp (not using the Japanese waterstone) works OK with the grey and black wheels for turning chisels that are exposed to and suffer on hard wood for a greater length of time that on flat-woodwork.

At the moment, the best repeatable grinds on the Tormek I can do is purportedly 1000 grit using the stone re-grader. I have no argument/logic to separate the grey Tormek wheel from the black one, though the latter definitely works better on the exotics.

No doubt it is a worthwhile discussion. At least thus far, I am still thinking a 5000 grit Japanese waterstone for a new Tormek.

Jeff

Originally Posted by Jeff Leslie

I see no advantage at all in using a radiused edge on a CBN wheel. There is no repeatability. A bit for a Sorby multi-tipped hollowing tool would be ruined in seconds or less using the method shown in the video.

Jeff

If you ever have to grind an iron for a hollow plane or an incannel gouge, you'll instantly see why it's useful.