Thread: Chainsaw Sharpening Jig

Hi Craig. I have 3 of those jigs, initially I bought one maybe 25 years ago and I think it cost me $25, and then more recently I picked up 2 of them from a bargain bin at Bunnings, also for $5 each.

The reason I wanted another one was that I adapted one of the jigs for use with square ground chain that uses a trapezoidal cross section file in place of a round file. Sharpening square ground chain accurately is very tricky so it helped me there, but I eventually stopped used square ground chain as these chains go blunt too quickly.

In terms of using it with round files, it does help sharpeners who are just starting out so if I loaned someone a chainsaw (rare) I sometimes loan them a jig as well so they didn't bugger up my chains. Personally I find them too slow (I have been sharpening chains on and off by hand for 50 years) so they mainly gather dust.


In terms of hints, don't sweat getting the angles perfect, in some ways consistency is as important so just go for it.

One of the most over looked parts of the chain are the rakers which that jig does not deal with - the usual raker setting jigs are simplified so much that they do not lower the raker enough and are virtually useless once the chain loses half its cutter, and usually even before that. Rakers should be lowered to where they at least 1/10th of the width of the cutter gullet. Most chainsaw shops don't have a clue about this either because all they want to do is sell you a new chain.

If simple raker setting jigs are used then a set that does 0.025, 0.03, 0.035, etc, is need to generate the required raker depths. There are better raker setting jigs made by Carlton (called a filoplate) and Husky also has a similar version. If you are only up to using a jig for raker depths then get one of these. I do mine by hand using a digital angle finder.

BobL,

Thanks for the detailed response and the videos. Very handy.

Yep,

I am just starting out with chainsaws. I picked up a saw last year and when the chain got blunt, sharpened it by hand and eye, but found the results could be a LOT better, so thought I'd try a jig.

I am in the process of learning to sharpen handsaws, and figured I might as well be able to sharpen everything in my shed while I am at it

Craig

I should add I don't set the rakers as per the video every time I touch the rakers.

It is important not to let the chain go blunt so My sharpening pattern goes something like this.

2/3 stroke touch up after every tankfull in hardwoods, maybe after every second tankful in softwood.
2/3 stroke raker touch up by eye after every 3/4 tanks fulls

Full raker setting with DAF after every maybe 9/10 tankfuls.

If rakers are set with the DAF there is no need to be too worried about getting the cutters to be all the same length. Most chainsaw shops will disagree with this as well.

I soon discovered that jigs take too long and dont do that good a job. My other discovery is it is better to take the chain off the saw and put it in a vice to sharpen. I made marks on the top of the vice jaws so I align the file with the marks to keep the right angle.
I use a flat file to take off the raker tops as required. I do this perhaps about every 3rd or 4th sharpen or when the cutting performance starts to slow down. The raker depth guage is good to check this but after some practice you will know by the cut. When the teeth get too uneven then I take that chain to the chainsaw shop for a sharpen on the machine to even things out. The shop tends to take off a lot of metal so I get a lot more chain life by sharpening myself as far as possable. Those power rotary sharpeners waste a lot of chain too so I am all for the good old file. These days I take along 3 or 4 sharp chains to a job so no more sharpening in the bush either.
Regard
John

I used to use a jig and sharpen by hand, a very slow process and the results were I suppose "ok".
About 10 years ago I splashed out and bought a machine for sharpening chains, one of the best things I've ever bought.
Usually touch up the chain after 2 tankfulls, with the settings right on the machine there is no need to gring heaps off the teeth. When cutting performance drops off I do the rakers by hand using a gauge. Since using this method my saw always performs perfectly and I get a lot more life out of my chains.
Chain saw sharpening machines are quite cheap now, Ozito etc, don't know if they are any good though.