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4th November 2018, 08:11 AM #46SENIOR MEMBER
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So, if diamond stone users strop a blade as a final step after using an xx-fine stone and, as mentioned by Derek that "...diamond stones generally end where waterstones begin (an "extra fine" diamond stone is 1200 grit; my coarse waterstone is 1000 grit)...", should I use a waterstone coarser rather than the 1000g I use to try and get a wire edge?
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4th November 2018 08:11 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th November 2018, 01:42 PM #47
I've been using diamond stones for a few years and love them. Mine start at 400, then 1000, then 6000. After these I use diamond jewellers paste of 8000, then 14000 to finish on mdf. I find I only have to go back to 6000 and then the paste to put on a new edge when it needs it but in the mean time I give it a strop to keep the edge when working. This I find works well for me along with some good chisels and plane blades.
SBPower corrupts, absolute power means we can run a hell of alot of power tools
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4th November 2018, 02:01 PM #48
Yvan, where you start the sharpening regime depends on (1) the amount (area) of steel you need to work, and (2) the hardness or abrasion resistance of the steel (O1 is the easiest, moving to A2, PM-V11, M2, D2, and M4 at the hard end of the scale).
For example, after hollow grinding - which I take to the edge of the blade - I may start with 3000/4000 grit (Spyderco Medium), and this will create a micro bevel. However, as the edge wears, and the micro bevel widens progressively with repeated honings, it is then necessary to start with something coarser, such as a 1000 grit waterstone or worn 600 grit diamond stone (which is in reality closer to 1000/1200 grit). When this level no longer works, then I am back to re-grinding the hollow and once again able to start with the 3000 grit.
I must repeat that the key element is to do enough on the first stone to create a wire at the back of the blade. This is vital. Also, you really only need a small wire - don't go overboard here as it makes it harder work to remove the wire at the end, and any remaining wire will prevent the blade cutting properly.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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5th November 2018, 01:23 AM #49Novice
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Thank you Paul. I tried it and it works great. By the way, before my family moved back to the states, I went to school at Rugby and we got to play the Junior All Blacks. We were slaughtered, of course, but we had a great time. Super fellows. Then, at the pub, they could drink two or three pints to my one. And the Haka is truly intimidating when you see it up close and personal.
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5th February 2019, 06:44 AM #50
Hi,
New member here and would like to know where you can source wider diamond plates. I have an Eze Lap 400/1200 plate which is 50mm wide and great for chisels but a wee bit narrow for plane blades (?).
Paul Sellers plates appear to be about 80mm wide and full surface (not the criss - cross style) but I can't find anywhere in NZ I can purchase these.
Anywhere in OZ that would ship to NZ?
Cheers,
Pete
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5th February 2019, 07:21 AM #51GOLD MEMBER
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You could try carbatec.co.nz
The sell 10” DMT that are 4” wide.
https://www.carbatec.co.nz/category/3-diamond-stones/4
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5th February 2019, 08:57 AM #52
Thanks for the link.
Yep, I spotted them earlier but they seem to be the criss/cross type instead of the whole surface type that PS seems to have.
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5th February 2019, 04:47 PM #53GOLD MEMBER
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Look up Atoma diamond plates on Amazon or Ebay.
CHRIS
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5th February 2019, 04:47 PM #54Senior Member
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I believe Paul Sellers uses the Trend stones. You could look on ebay.uk
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5th February 2019, 04:50 PM #55Taking a break
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DMT have continuous 10"x4" plates as well. https://www.carbatec.co.nz/product/3...inuous-diamond
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5th February 2019, 07:02 PM #56
I've had 3 DMT plates. There'll be no fourth, and that's not because the other three are still worth a damn.....
Atoma Plates are significantly better, IMHO, and can be sourced out of Sydney:
Sharpening Stones
James will ship International (the rates look ok).
The trick with Atoma plates is to have one grit on the top and another on the bottom, and save on storage as well as cost.
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5th February 2019, 07:10 PM #57
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5th February 2019, 07:42 PM #58
That's right Matt, but from 1200g up. Before that plates are the go (and plates are only available in 1200 and less).
One day I'll get some paste coarser than 1200 because I have 3 plates sitting here doing nothing....(that's six grits worth....)
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5th February 2019, 07:58 PM #59GOLD MEMBER
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Once you have bought a Atoma you can then replace the diamond plate as needed which is not very often or even apply a diamond plate to the other side of the substrate I guess to give two in one sharpening options. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...+diamond+plate
This is not possible with any other plate that I know of.CHRIS
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5th February 2019, 08:18 PM #60
I did get some CBN plates made (China via USA) with 60/80 grit, 100/150, 180/240, 400/600 or something like that. You should see the 60 grit cut through steel! Flattened a REALLY bad chisel in something like 10 minutes.
Mind you, it did have ozhunter's size and strength behind it....
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