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Thread: diamond stones
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26th October 2009, 02:09 PM #1
diamond stones
I was at gasweld today and they had combination toolex 250 oneside and 1200 other side diamond sharpening plates for $56 about 6 or so inches long is this good value or spend extra and get a dmt combination bigger and wider
i have only got a few old oil stones and would like to change
the diamond plates appeal as they dont dish out
thanks
gregLast edited by Farm boy; 26th October 2009 at 02:29 PM. Reason: bad spelling
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26th October 2009, 09:43 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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Sounds very cheap to me, the course ones don't seem to last long I think the stones rub off but the fine ones last forever.
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27th October 2009, 07:10 PM #3
Carbatec has an economy range that sell for like $110 for both a 400 and a 1000 grit
The DMT version is $120 each
Make sure you check them for flatness though before you leave the shop as I had to courier one of mine back. And have it replaced.
They are flat enough to do most things but not accurate enough for jointer blades or thicknesser blades. If you intend to fo that then go for the DMT's For chisels or planes they will be fine. Better quality than some of the other crap out there though.
I got mine mainly for flattening backs of tools and flattening water stones
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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28th October 2009, 07:14 PM #4
thanks kiwi and glenn
i notice and read that people use diamond plates to flatten there waterstones why not use diamond plates to sharpen there tools in the first place if there waterstones dish out so much?
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28th October 2009, 07:20 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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I use them to sharpen tools. I used to straighten my old stones by rubbing them on concrete cheaper than diamond stones. Perhaps not as good though.
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17th November 2009, 06:27 AM #6
I think the reason they are not used is they give a questionable or a not as good as finish in the higher grits as Waterstones. Waterstones give a better polish than diamond? I admit I am not an expert so other may be able to enlighten you.
Have a look at Derek Cohens (he's a regular contributor here) website and his articles on sharpening here
Woodwork Techniques
There are a alot of different techniques out there you just have to find what works for you.
Andrew"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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17th November 2009, 12:50 PM #7
thanks andrew
I was going to use a diamond for initial bevel on old abused chisels then go to a ceramic but after messaging derek and wood borer i bit the bullett and bought a white wheel for my 8 inch grinder (I still am heavy handed and afraid of burning the metal)
once i get a jig for my grinder am looking at the veritas unless anyone has a good copy
i have talked myself into some waterstones for christmas either lobster sold by hnt gordon or shapton (good review in the awr)
i have the veritas mk 1 honing guide so hopefully that should do me for a sharpening set up
i will still use scary sharp until i get the waterstones but goodness you go through the wet and dry
cheers
greg
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17th November 2009, 06:39 PM #8Hewer of wood
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A good set up Andrew.
Yes, be afraid of bluing the steel!
I find it happens quickest when shaping a bevel the closer to the edge the grinding is. At a guess there's less steel for the heat to dissipate through. When grinding the whole bevel then for me it's one light pass at a time and allow to cool.
Can take yonks to reshape eg a firmer chisel bevel this way so I'll have several on the go at one time and cycle between them to give them time to cool.Cheers, Ern
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17th November 2009, 07:43 PM #9
Have a container of water near by and frequently dip to keep them cool.
"All that is necessary for evil to succeed is for good men to do nothing"
(Edmund Burke 1729-1797)
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17th November 2009, 08:37 PM #10Hewer of wood
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Not a good idea KO.
Creates microscopic cracks in the steel I'm told.Cheers, Ern
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17th November 2009, 09:01 PM #11
it sounds like i will have to learn patience with a white stone
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