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Thread: Diamond whetstone questions.
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24th August 2013, 02:25 AM #1Member
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Diamond whetstone questions.
Hello all.
I am thinking of buying a diamond whetstone for honing my tools at work.
I currently use a combination oil stone. One of the guys at work has a diamond stone and I used it the other day and now I want one really adley, they are fantastic!!!
I have two questions. First, what are your recommendations on brands if any?
Second, what grit should i look at buying? Because I will be using it at work, I will not have the time to use several different grits. I was thinking around 1000. Would that be too fine?
Kind Regards, Andrew.
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24th August 2013 02:25 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th August 2013, 07:58 AM #2
I have DMT brand diamond stones. 1000 grit is quite fine, DMT DuoSharp Bench Stone Models | DMT® - Diamond Machining Technology
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24th August 2013, 08:32 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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I am an Eze!ap fan. 600 grit would be okay for a builder. Recently bought a 600 grit 200 X 75mm from the Australian supplier and saved about $50, as they have them on special.
The greater width deals better with wider plane blades. They can be a bit rough and scratchy when new but they will smooth up fairly quickly.
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24th August 2013, 09:57 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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The shape of the diamond crystals does matter = monocrystalline is best.
You get what you pay for = while the "average" particle size may be 1 micrometer, a cheap plate will have everything from 0.5 up to 1.5 or some even bigger.
800 or 1000 grit W&D automotive finishing paper on a flat surface is a whole lot of bang for your buck.
But, you say you need to do this at work. Time is money. Diamond is good. I'm retired = whole lot of time and very little money.
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24th August 2013, 08:21 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm with kidbee on this one. Love eze lap. Grit level depends on what you like. 600 is for fast and ready work. I had a 200 by 50 super fine (1200grit) ezelap for 10 plus years in my tool box at work. Great for wider plane blades. Everyone was wanting to sharpen their tools on it. Diamond does cut quite quicky even on the worn in stones. Grab a double sided one! As kidbee said, they need to be broken in and keep your docket. Ezelaps quality control is slipping.
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24th August 2013, 09:25 PM #6Member
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Thank you everyone for your help. I will continue looking from here with my new knowledge!!!
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25th August 2013, 06:54 PM #7Hewer of wood
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Consider as well whether you might want to repair chipped-out edges, in which case a dual-sided 'stone' is best.
Also consider how much you'll be doing.
If a lot, in my experience getting one or two Japanese ceramic whetstones is better bang for your buck. Yes, they need maintaining and are a bit more fiddly in use.Cheers, Ern
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2nd September 2013, 10:30 PM #8Member
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G'day all,
I have recently bought a DMT "fine" diamond stone to flatten my waterstones and was wandering if I should of gone for the extra coarse or coarse stone.
I had planed on buying the extra coarse/ coarse stone but was recommended the fine (by the carba-tec guy) because the extra coarse/coarse would be to aggressive on the finer waterstones (4000+).
Have I done the right thing in getting the fine?
Sorry for hijacking the thread,
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3rd September 2013, 05:38 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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olas: just how "bad" are your waterstones?
Seems to me that the major difference between coarse and fine is the cutting speed.
Diamond just lasts longer than other abrasives.
In any case, LOTS of water to flush away the swarf.
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3rd September 2013, 07:12 AM #10Member
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Thanks Robson valley,
My waterstones are all new, it's more about maintaining the flatness. In your opinion will a coarse diamond stones leave marks on the finer waterstones (4000+)?
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3rd September 2013, 07:38 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Just a guess but I'll say yes, the coarse diamond particle sizes will leave scratches in the very smooth surfaces of very fine grit stones. I've been using the LV combo 1K/4K waterstone for years. Nothing quite like the corners of a 5/35 to leave squiggles in the stone! The 1K side has developed quite a rainbow profile. Would be useful for your experiments.
What happened was that, about 6-8 months ago, I started to do a great deal of spokeshave work on my kitchen sticks project in birch wood. Trying hard to finish 100 of them but after 60, my enthusiasm is flagging. The spokeshaves are in rotten condition as new. 28 degree blade isn't so bad but paint on the sole, crude castings and so on. The Stanley was such a $50 piece of carp that it hangs on the wall (no, you can't return it if you mess with it.)
I learned very quickly that I could not use my 1K/4K waterstone for the spokeshave blades = too badly worn. A new stone? Possibly. Lots of money. I had to find something flat ASAP. 800 grit then 1500 grit W&D papers on a flat granite surface. Chrome green on crackerbox cardboard. The Samona spokeshaves ($15 each) both tuned up like a dream and I have not looked back. I actually counted and did the math: I'm getting about 1km of travel in birch before I begin to sense that the pulling is getting just a little tougher to do. A few passes on 1500 and hone and away I go again.
'Scuze the lunatic ravings.
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3rd September 2013, 12:38 PM #12Hewer of wood
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Depends on how you use the diamond plate and what the binder in the whetstone is.
I used to use a coarse diamond plate and there was one stone that would get scratched up a bit but that had no practical effect. These days I use a #400 Atoma plate on stones of that grit or finer and on coarser stones #36 or #90 SiC grains on plate glass. The latter is IMO a quick and cheap flattening method and works on fine stones as well.Cheers, Ern
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