Thread: Do i need to go higher ?

Go to 12000 (not 8000).

Actually, it depends on the waterstone you are using. For example, if it is a King 6000, allow it to dry and then finish honing. The grit breaks down into finer particules, similar to a finer waterstone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

Go to 12000 (not 8000).

Actually, it depends on the waterstone you are using. For example, if it is a King 6000, allow it to dry and then finish honing. The grit breaks down into finer particules, similar to a finer waterstone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

It is a King 6000, good guess Derek.

I'll let it dry & try again. In terms of the 12000 option, just to clarify are you suggesting i skip the 8000 and go from 6000 to 12000 or up through the grits (6k, 8k to 12k) ?

Thanks for the quick reply.

Scott

You can skip the 8000. Go from 6000 to 12000.

Or, use the 6000 wet, and then use it dry. That should get you the equivalent of a 9000 once the grit breaks down.

Regards from Perth

Derek

In the interests of efficiency, these days I only use 1000, 5000, and 12000 ceramic stones. The steps between these stones work just fine IMHO. Many tools can be given an adequate edge stopping at the 5000 (i.e. only 2 steps required), some others justify the additional step at 12000. A strop and Veritas compound is also useful for extending the useful life of chisels and carving tools between sharpenings on ceramic stones.

Of course, when your microbevel gets too big and a new primary bevel is required, you need something a bit more aggressive than 1000 grit - I use the dreaded Sigma 120 grit stone, but only because I can't afford a Tormek....

I did consider a cheaper Tormek-style machine (like the Scheppach Tiger), but based on my own experiences of Scheppach tools (plus various threads on here), I decided it would only end in tears and disappointment. Maybe Santa will bring me a Tormek T-7 this year???

Thanks Derek.

Good luck with Santa bringing you a Tormek Mr Brush

The puzzle with going up to 57,000 grit is that you can develop such a fine edge that the least little PHART in the wood will crumple the edge that you have so lovingly created.
Question = Is that, or was that, a useful thing to take the time to do?? Particularly as I read posts from so many wood workers who do this, then sand the wood, shredding the carved surfaces, for 6 weeks?

Time to learn to be a "minimalist." Sharpening is not wood working. If that floats your boat, so be it. I use spokeshaves sometimes for several hours per day in birch, one of our softer hardwoods. Every 100m of rounded edge, I tune them up. Yes, that is 100 meters of edge. 1500 grit and hone with chrome green on card stock. Back to work.

I can sharpen and maintain my wood carving tools, same for other people, and we all get about the business of the wood work that we love to do.

I'm with Robson on this one. I love sharpening and wood work. I love wood work with sharp tools even better! My finishing stone is a very well worn eze lap 1200 which I have been told is more like a Japanese 3000ish. I then power strop and use. I will hand strop from time to time while I work but when I am working, I want sharp tools pretty quick. I have used much finer stones before and to tell you the truth, I can't say I notice any difference in performance. My work is not any easier, faster or neater with a chisel or plane taken to 12000. the power stropping really takes off a lot of time.

But horses for courses! I like neat and intricate work but I'm no Picasso. Maybe I am missing the point on the higher stones, but I can take a well neglected chisel and have it tuned up beautifully in minutes and then back to work.