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Thread: Grinding plane irons
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17th April 2011, 11:40 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Grinding plane irons
Hey all,
When I first discovered the beauty of hand planes, I tried to learn as much as I could about sharpening. I purchased DVD's, read books, searched the internet. I'd have to say that i'm at a level that I understand honing and can sharpen a blade.
However, amongst all that reading and watching of DVD's, I never quite understood grinding. It's something that really bothers me, and if I could be more proficient in one thing, it would be grinding. I must admit that I payed someone to grind my last plane iron as I simple was not confident enough in doing it myself.
Below is a list of my sharpening equipment:
- 6 inch makita grinder with a oxide wheel
- LV grinding jig and stand (next on my purchase list)
- Japanese waterstones - 1000, 4000 and 8000 (thanks fletty who kindly gave me some of these)
- honing guide
- glass with sandpaper
Now i'm going to try and keep this very simple, because I really don't want to confuse myself and everyone else reading.
Questions:
1. When grinding a plane iron, when do you know when to stop?
2. Once you have stopped, do you leave the hollow grind?
-if you do leave the hollow grind, do you go straight to sharpening on the 1000, all the way up to 8000 as per normal?
-if you don't leave the hollow grind, what do you do?
3. What are the difference betweens grinding bevel up/down irons
Input would be much appreciated,
Andy
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17th April 2011 11:40 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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17th April 2011, 01:29 PM #2
Andy, prepare to be bamboozled.
For me, I only grind when I get a new "old" plane blade to establish the bevel and frequently to remove chips, skews and associated deprivations.
I ensure the back of the blade is flat and try my best to polish out and milling marks in the first 5 mm of the blade to ensure a smooth, sharp edge.
I am lucky as my set up is 46 & 80 grit 50mm wheels on a dry grinder then the Torment at 220 and 1k. Then off to the water stones at 1k and 4k.
Unless the blade is especially damaged or no bevel has been established, it's a quick go on the 80, then on the Torment @220 & 1k, then the stones, then into the plane for "testing" or is it "playing" as my wife believes.Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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17th April 2011, 01:38 PM #3
I'd love to help, but I don't grind plane irons often enough to have more than a nodding acquaintance with it.
Never had a problem keeping them in shape with a couple stones. Rarely had any chips or chunks, and when they were present they were small. Never let the iron get dull enough to need more than a few quick swipes.
Maybe I'm OCD over plane irons and keeping them always sharp, but I've managed to dodge any heavy work on them as well. Maybe there's a message in that all by itself?
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17th April 2011, 01:51 PM #4
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19th April 2011, 09:05 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for the replies
Another question if you don't mind, a BU plane that has a 25 degree iron plus the 12 degree bed angle results in a 37 degree cutting angle, which is true, but does this mean they havnt honed a secondary bevel? Does it mean they have just honed it at 25 degrees? If so, I thought this would not be as efficient as if they honed at 3 or 4 degree secondary, which would mean a 41 to 42 degree cutting angle.
Andy
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19th April 2011, 08:05 PM #6
I suppose if they say they have a 25º iron, they mean 25º in a honed condition. That means they have possibly honed a wide bevel at 25º or hollow ground at 25º and honed at 25º. A BU plane set this way would be good for end grain, I use my block plane this way. You'd use a higher secondary bevel for crankier grain, probably fine tuned for the wood you're currently working on.
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20th April 2011, 12:24 AM #7
what mic-d asid is
I'm happy to explain in more detail if you need, but mic-d has given the 'solution'... so if you are happy then anything else is 'detail and tricks'.
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21st April 2011, 09:30 AM #8
1) Some people qualify 'grinding' as re-establishing a new primary bevel, which could be done on a number of media. In answer to you question; when I grind on a dry wheel I usually stop when the new bevel is within 1mm of the edge. This way you're not wasting any steel and lessening the risk of de-tempering the edge. With harder steel or steels that will clog your wheel be sure to true the wheel regularly with a diamond jig or 'T'.
2) Most definitely. On most thin bevel down irons I grind at ~27 degrees and leave the hollow alone. Then I'll move to stones for a 30 degree secondary bevel for honing and polishing.
3) The only BU planes I own are block planes so I'm no expert, however, in my experience there is no difference. That said because the blades are so narrow I've never had the need to take one to a grinder. Grinding on a coarse stone has been sufficient. I still apply a secondary bevel to these, though I believe some will polish the entire bevel on larger BU planes."Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
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