Thread: Hand Grinder Wheel Advice

Is the spindle true ? The wheel outside dia. should be true to the centre hole. A foot treadle would be very handy because for me grinding is two handed.

I did not read the previous posts so this may have been covered, how snug is the fit over the shaft? The stone needs to just fit without resorting to blows with a hammer (don't do that!). Once everything is clean it should 'just' slide on with no play.
New stones often need to be trued with a diamond stick or the old rotary truing stick however that is becoming less common as the stones are getting better from the factory.
If you have a dial indicator you can check the runout on the shaft while the stone is off the grinder.
Check the bushings for play.
Clean all the mating surfaces.

If you have worked out it's the shaft or bushings you will probably get away with truing the wheel and leaving it on the hand grinder. I doubt you could get enough speed with a hand grinder to make a modern stone explode. If it's the grinder and not the wheel and decide to swap it for another stone you will have to true it again.
Blotting paper between the stone and the flanges is Still important I think but modern wheels don't come with them any more.

If it was me, I probably would look for an obvious fault somewhere in the stone/clean mating surfaces and stone fit/ shaft and bushings/ bolted to a firm surface.. If all else fails, just true it up and use it but common sence and safety first!

With a powered grinder the fit of spindle to hole isn't that critical. It's the sandwich of nut, metal and paper washers and flange that does the holding. Quality grinders come with a heavy flange and washer.

Rsser, I will take that advice on board! I was always told shaft and bore size was critical and I would have though even more so under power. Over the years I have learnt when an old timer (60 is not that old but older than me!) said something, it was my turn to keep my mouth shut!
Will keep that advice!
Thanks mate!
Ben

Originally Posted by rsser

With a powered grinder the fit of spindle to hole isn't that critical. It's the sandwich of nut, metal and paper washers and flange that does the holding. Quality grinders come with a heavy flange and washer.

Do I need to add a paper washer or does the label on the wheel act as one?

From what i have read there is a few opinions on that one. Modern wheels are not commonly supplied with the old thick ones and and rely on the factory lable as the fibre washer.

The thicker paper washers help add friction between the stone and flanges so you don't have to crank the nuts down too hard. They add a buffer between the fragile stone and big flanges to help distribute the clamping force over the whole area of the flanges. They also help protect the flanges if the wheel slips.

I would pop some on. If you true up the wheel without them it will probably be just fine.

Get someone to keep the wheel spinning for you so you can keep both hands free to true up the stone.

I've had a bit more of a look at this grinder. I have a feeling that either the shaft is a bit bent, or the bearings need replacing. I'm hoping that its the later.

I've taken a video of the grinder in action, but I'm not sure how to upload it without going through YouTube.

Admire your persistence John on the dark side of the dark side.

You could've got a decent 8" powered grinder for $100 plus postage but it's always good to explore other dimensions.

If you can email me the vid I'll look at posting it.

Originally Posted by rsser

Admire your persistence John on the dark side of the dark side.

You could've got a decent 8" powered grinder for $100 plus postage but it's always good to explore other dimensions.

If you can email me the vid I'll look at posting it.

I'm quietly going to admit to you that I'm probably going to end up doing that...but shhh, don't tell - its a secret.

(I'm going to persist a bit longer and see what happens. If it doesn't turn out, I'll use this new wheel for a powered grinder and use this one for rough work. )

Look at Just Tools or Total Tools. 8" Abbot and Ashby utility model. $99 + shipping. Have used one for years. The switch died but the wall socket switch is nearby.

Now they're made in China. Can't comment on their quality.

For the brains trust to diagnose ...

Video | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

It oscillates inline with the crank handle. You usually move what your grinding across the surface anyway! Call it a feature. have you started using it yet?
You could look at the bushings on the crank handle shaft. If you push and pull on the handle does it shift the stone towards and away from you?

Originally Posted by Ben Dono

It oscillates inline with the crank handle. You usually move what your grinding across the surface anyway! Call it a feature. have you started using it yet?
You could look at the bushings on the crank handle shaft. If you push and pull on the handle does it shift the stone towards and away from you?

I might take another video from a different view. If I push/pull the stone it moves the about 1 - 1.5mm. The handle doesn't effect the stone at all.

Can you restrict the play in it with it still spinning freely? Maybe 2 acetal washers between the flange and the crank body?

Have you opened it up for cleaning, greasing yet?