Thread: Japanese Waterstones

Ok, I've done some research of my own and found some useful information. I'm prety clear on most things but still have questions.

From what I've read my 1200 stone is ok to be left in water (with a drop of bleach) but the 6000 should be stored dry? How long should the 6000 be submerged in water prior to using -20 mins?

Andy

The finer stones just need a splash before use. You also need to be careful about storing stones in water, some of them are not designed for this and will disintegrate. I usually give my coarse stones about 10 mins in water, when the bubbles stop coming out it's done.

I got the king branded stones.
I read to store the 1200 in water and the finer stone dry, just soak it for a 10 mins before sharpening - sounds right ?

I've got a 1200 and 6000 King as well and I do as I said in my last post, but if that's what's recommended go for it.

I read it on a suppliers website - store 1200 in water and 6000 dry?

Do they recommend this purely so the stones are ready to go whenever needed, or is there another reason?

Probably. Personally, I wouldn't risk it

When or how do you know when to take the plane blade to the grinder before using the waterstones as apposed to just using the waterstones ?

Andy

Hi Gro,

I have a 800, 1200 and 6000, King or bear, not sure which, but they sit in water all the time and I've had no problem with them. Now I've read your post I might leave the 6000 out of water from now on.

I think 60 grit might be a bit harsh for flattening. I use 240 grit on a bit of glass plate and that works fine.

Just my OP

Originally Posted by groeneaj

When or how do you know when to take the plane blade to the grinder before using the waterstones as apposed to just using the waterstones ?

Andy

Hi Andy,
Go back to the grinder when you feel the secondary bevel is so large that it is slowing the process of cutting it on the waterstone. Generally I wait 'til it is about 1/2 - 3/4 up the primary bevel before regrinding. And you can choose to not grind it right out too - leave a little secondary bevel behind- provides an additional safety margin against overheating the edge. Personally I don't do this as I has a slow speed grinder and I hold two fingers right near the edge so I get instant feedback about the heat.

I have 1200 and 6000 grit King stones both of which I have stored in water for many years without detriment. I initially kept the 6000 dry and gave it a spritz before using but it always seemed to be like trying to work up a spit on a hot day.

Cheers
Michael

Thanks for the replies.
I havnt got a grinder at the moment, but it looks like I might to get one soon.

I'm new to sharpening and it seems everyone has their own preference when it comes to storing their stones and sharpening. I think I'll just have to play around and find what works for me.

Could I get away without a grinder for a little while? I know there are other methods eg belt sander but can this wait until I start really using my planes heavily or do I need to grind a blade if I got a brand new one?

Andy

You should follow the recommendations of King for your stones.
A good blade should only require honing when you buy it. Another good option would be a DMT 250 mm extra coarse coarse diamond plate, which is also very good for flattening stones. I have used wet & dry paper for a long time to flatten stones and recently bought a diamond plate ( from Amazon on line ) which makes much less mess and is more accurate. If you are going to buy a grinder get a 200mm slow speed grinder.

Regards

Another thing to consider is flattening and then polishing the backs of plane blades and chisels.

That's a whole new ball game. Do a search on lapping.

You'll need more gear and lots of patience.

Basilg..i have some of the DMT plates..the extra large ones...Just last week i had this funny feeling when sharpening i had the slightest curve happening and thought i was pressing too hard while sharpening..just so happened i have a few of the plates..in extra large.
so i placed 2 plates face to face,..i reckon the bend in the center was close 3/4 between the 2 plates.My plates are 9" long...so when i used the plates for flattening my stones...guess what...
So i have gone back to the messie process of my glass and WT paper.

Yes, the DMT flatness is not perfect. You notice this when lapping going up through the grades. But wood has some elasticity.