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23rd March 2014, 07:53 PM #1
Jointer knives: How fine do you go?
As I sit here thrusting away with my knives at sandpaper mounted on glass, one's mind begins to wander and the eternal questions begin to pique one's interest...
Just how fine are you lot sharpening your jointer knives? Are y'all going to the insane umpteenthousandath waterstone grade with the backs lapped to a gazillionth of a gnat's fart and a micro bevel that can slice an SBD fart, or is a "retail / dragged behind a car on bitumen road" finish good enough for blades spinning at twenty to the dozen?
Please, either save me from this monotony or justify it for the bestest ever machine finishEvery time you make a typo, the errorists win.
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2nd June 2014, 04:26 PM #2Novice
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Grinding jointer/planer knives
If you grind them on a fine enough stone, that is good enough trust me. To save yourself money in the long run, buy a set of TC knifes. The extra cost will soon be repaid by all the sharping costs of the HSS knifes. I converted over to TC about 20 years ago, never looked back.
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7th June 2014, 02:03 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I need more information before I can suggest anything.
Rim speed, feed rate, Janka hardness, probable bevel angle.
You still mess with metal blades?
Nothing here in industry but ceramic for more than a decade.
My kitchen knives, even the veggie peeler, all ceramic for years.
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7th June 2014, 07:34 PM #4Taking a break
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Ceramic blades for a jointer? You gotta be kidding (unless you count carbide which, technically, can be considered a ceramic).
As for honing, don't bother getting fancy. If you're using a powered grinder, just take the burr off with a fine diamond plate. If you're using wet/dry paper on glass, I'd call it quits after 600 grit. You have to sand after planing anyway so save your effort for that.
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7th June 2014, 10:54 PM #5
Once the blades are done on the grinder I use a small diamond plate held on the hollow ground face and run it up the full length of blade, all I am looking to do is take any grinder wheel marks off, it might only take half dozen strokes to produce a micro bevel of no more than about 0.5mm in width. On the back side I hold the plate flat on the blade and run up and down just to remove any burrs, I'll swap from cutting edge to back a couple of times with only a couple of strokes on each and that's done for me.
The plate is about 4/5/600ish grit.
Pete
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