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4th November 2012, 07:11 PM #1Senior Member
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What kinds of steel don't work with oilstones?
Hi all.
If I were to go for working with oilstones for plane and chisel sharpening, in addition to HSS, what other kind of steels should I avoid?
I've read lots of different names/descriptions of steels when I've browsed online including:
*professional, hardened steel
*high carbon steel
*Cr-V steel hardened to RC59-63 with steel ferrules
*65 manganese steel (this is a direct translation from Chinese)
Cheers.Last edited by Russell Cook; 4th November 2012 at 07:17 PM. Reason: Typo
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4th November 2012 07:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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4th November 2012, 07:30 PM #2
Aluminium. And those really really cheap chinese steels that must be made out of recycled Datsun 120Y bits mixed with cigarette packet foil. (I've never had a problem sharpening any sort of steel...it's just the harder they are, the slower they sharpen)
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4th November 2012, 07:38 PM #3Senior Member
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Thanks for the reply, Master Splinter.
May I ask if you are a regular oilstone user?
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4th November 2012, 09:59 PM #4
Oilstones only for at least the first 10 years of tool sharpening. Branched out into grinders and linishers and wet grinders and diamond plates and a few water stones....but the oilstone still tends to be the go-to device when I just want to get the bl**dy tool sharp, and not spend an hour lighting incense and doing the placating rituals and blood sacrifices for the sharpening altar....
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5th November 2012, 05:54 AM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Master Splinter got it right: "the harder they are, the slower they sharpen."
Thing is, once that's done, there's far less to do in maintaining the edge.
The time invested in getting it right the first time is worth it.
I don't hesitate to rebevel tools not originally intended for wood carving.
Narex skews at 25 degrees for example (Cr/Mn?). 20 degrees is best.
I paint the bevel with black felt marker, set up a 20 degree angle card
beside the clamped down oil stone, add a slop of oil and scrub like Hello.
As the black marker wears away, I know what's happened.
I bought the Narex from Lee Valley. Economical and they really hold a carving-sharp edge.
Honestly it was a bit of a gamble but I like them so much, I bought a second pair.
I use single bevel Marples chisels as knot busters at 40 degrees.
I take them back to 30 for cutting. They never see anything finer than an oil stone.
When compared with sandpapers (by my touch), I'll guess that my finest is 400 grit.
I have an expensive 5/35 Pfeil gouge which has turned out to be unusually poor (soft) steel.
With oil stones, I have had to joint/square off the edge and remake the 20 degree bevel.
I have 3 oil stones. Cheap ones. I use automotive motor oil. Lots of other edges around my place that get a lick or two from time to time. Useful to have.
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5th November 2012, 01:49 PM #6Hewer of wood
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Russell,
I used nothing but an oilstone for years to sharpen the knives.
Was slow to dish but long to flatten.
These days I want a series of stones running up to very fine grit to get a polished edge on all the tools. What's available in oilstones?Cheers, Ern
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