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  1. #16
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    Put the finishing touches on today.

    First drilled and tapped the adapter so that it can be screwed on the honing end of the Scheppach 2500 shaft (M8x1.25) Not quite sure why they decided to put an M8 thread on the end of the 12mm shaft. Perhaps to force people to buy the Scheppach honing wheel instead of the Tormek?


    Also shortened the rear nylon bush so the nyloc nut sits flush with the end of the shaft


    Ready for oiling


    Oiled and ready for the application of the honing compound

    Attachment 143653

    My (used) Tormek jigs, SVS-50 and SVD-185, arrived today and I will be comparing the SVD-185 gouge jig to the Jet gouge jig. Jet doesn't make a skew chisel jig, so I have nothing to compare the SVS-50 to.

    Now for making a dedicated stand for this contraption, have to work out the best height for that. My standard grinder stand is way too high.

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  3. #17
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    well done Fred

  4. #18
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    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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    best height for that. My standard grinder stand is way too high.
    About waist height is the best so that you can work "over" it.

    I sit mine on "Big Henry's" bed but it is a fraction too high for some grinds.

    Allow room to stand at the side as well because on some grinds (Ellsworth) you need room to swing the handle in a large arc.

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    About waist height is the best so that you can work "over" it.

    I sit mine on "Big Henry's" bed but it is a fraction too high for some grinds.

    Allow room to stand at the side as well because on some grinds (Ellsworth) you need room to swing the handle in a large arc.
    Thanks , however the top of my standard grinder stand is already a few inches below (my) waist height, and I'm finding that too high.

    I am planning on putting the new stand on lockable castors so that I can wheel it to where it is needed, as well as have appropriate room around it. When not being used it can be wheeled out of the way.

    It will also have some drawers to hold the various bits and pieces, which seem to be multiplying as I speak!

  6. #20
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    Thanks , however the top of my standard grinder stand is already a few inches below (my) waist height, and I'm finding that too high.
    It will nearly be on the floor then.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    Croydon Hills, Melbourne East
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    Thumbs up well done

    Fred

    You have done a magnificent job there.

    Soren

  8. #22
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    Jan 2002
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    Yeah, neat work Fred.

    Just as a by the way, it may be of interest to note that Tormek now also offers a 2-3mm wide profiled wheel. Ideal for small gouge flutes.
    Cheers, Ern

  9. #23
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    Nov 2006
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    Thanks Ern, might have to make some narrower wheels for SWMBO carving chisels, some of those are quite narrow.

    Looking around for some more leather atm.

    Saw those narrower Tormek ones on their website, sitting on the end of the extension shaft for the wider ones, ie a total of 4 leather wheels and spacers running on the end of the standard shaft. Looked unwieldy and must get a bit wobbly?

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    It will nearly be on the floor then.
    Not quite (you calling me a short*rse?)

    Actually got the height issue sussed, I think. Been doing some mock ups with the bench grinder to sort out the positioning tool support I am making.

    It occurred to me that the height of the tool support in front of the bench grinder, using the Tormek published distance below the centre line of the grinder, is quite comfortable. My grinder stand is 890mm, giving a height of the tool support of 1010mm.

    Extrapolating this to the wet grinder gives me a stand height of 760mm, that way both tool supports will be at the same height.

    Having both tool supports at the same height means I will be handling the jigs in the same way

  11. #25
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    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default Hone

    Greetings Chaps. Read with interest this post. For what its worth. I worked at the RMIT patternmaking school a few years back and I had to sharpen and repair all the gouges the apprentices used. To polish the cutting edges on the gouges I used a face plate for the wood late about 5 inch dia and screwed a piece of 6 inch Jelutong to it. Then I turned the desired profile on the edge sticking out loded it with rouge and thus produced an ideal buffing surface. The wood lathe provided different speeds and I kept a number of face plates with different radi. When the timber tended to dry out a very small amount of oil would get things going again. Hope this helps 4-6-4

  12. #26
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    Thanks 4 6 4; interesting to learn of your experience.
    Cheers, Ern

  13. #27
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    Apr 2011
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    auckland NZ
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    cut out leather discs and thread them on a shaft jammed between 2 discs of MDF or whatever you have,coat them with aliphatic as you do this and let dry ,clamping with the nuts on the shaftand maybe 3 clamps to make sure when allis dry mount the shaft in the lathe and turn to the shape you want using a fast speed and a sharp tool

  14. #28
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    Thanks Ted.

    Aliphatic is a kind of glue obviously. Can you give us more detail?
    Cheers, Ern

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